Recent posts

General Discussion / Re: Why do we collect vintage ...
Last post by jaxops - Today at 11:24:18 AM
We grew up in a funeral home in Philadelphia and would get dropped off and picked up at school in "Big Black", a 1960 Cadillac custom Derham limousine.IMG_1186.JPG

 Dad became a dealer for Hess & Eisenhardt in Cincinnati, so we always had new cars going out and used cars coming in.  I usually got to drive one of his trade-ins home while working for him in high school. I delivered ambulances around New Jersey and eastern PA, and drove the hearse and later the family car for funerals.

  That's what got me started on large GM and Ford luxury cars.  When Dad lost his garage space around 2005, we were able to get the 1956 limousine and my brother took the 1949 limousine.  After the 1956 was restored, my brother tried to sell his car, but Dad bought it from him and informed me he had shipped it to Virginia.  So I have them both now, all restored and running. 
I am going to put new eyebrow moldings on my car this spring. Factory clips are not available. My last post on this was about the clips, which I have figured out how to make, "sorta". One is to modify a generic spring trim clip, but I still need to get behind and tighten the nut to the fender using a conical faucet washer as a cushion to hold the clip against the curved surface. The other option is to cut the head of a Christmas tree fastener to fit in the molding and just shove it in the holes in the fender. Thats my preferred solution, but not sure it would hold tight enough. I have made a sample of each. I'd prefer to do it the right way if I can. How big a job is it to remove the headlights? I'm specifically interested in the 2 studs and nuts holding the light frame to the fender. What is the best way to get to them so I can remove them?  Any advice is appreciated on this, including on my fastener ideas. Thanks
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1937 75 series convertible...
Last post by VooDoo - Today at 11:10:38 AM
Quote from: harry s on Today at 11:02:44 AMThe rubber channel also gets wrapped in bowdrill which Steele also has. It comes in tan or black rolls and is pre pasted.    Harry

OK so I need to order both then question do you happen to have a picture of what it looks like after it's installed?
I'm looking at this again today to see if it makes more sense and I think I now get it. 

-12v feed (pink) comes from B/U fuse and splits to the sensor and fast idle relay located near the wiper motor.
-green output of the sensor (closed over 120*F) goes to fast idle relay coil, other end of coil is grounded.
-normally closed relay (temp below 120) pink power feed is routed through the contacts to the fast idle solenoid.
-normally open (temp above 120 and coil activated) pink power feed is routed out the blue wire that splits to feed the compressor clutch and the "compressor feed" terminal on the ECC power module othewise known as the blower module. 

The engine variables come in as the diesel is just what is listed above.  If it was a DEFI there is a diode across the clutch coil likey to act as a snubber (absorbs electrical spikes when the coil disengages).  The EFI has an additional (to the fast idle) solenoid called a throttle solenoid.

Lots of connectors and devices involved in getting that signal that could easily get lost in an engine swap especially if it didn't start as an Olds.

it doesn't clearly say it but I think that in AC (or defrost) modes the module gets a signal from the controller to send power to the AC clutch which then kinda back feeds the rest which isn't a great design, perhaps changed in later years?  When not in in AC or DEF mode its depending on that temp switch to send power to the clutch and give that signal to allow the blower to run. 

I have not seen an actual diagram of the power module but my guess is that the controller isn't actually 'monitoring' for that 12v signal, rather that power module itself is just using that 12v signal directly to operate the blower controls.  The activate signal can either come from the controller or that temp circuit.  This could also explain how you are able to trick it, once its been activated it self latches or holds just because its not that smart of a circuit.       

The rubber channel also gets wrapped in bowdrill which Steele also has. It comes in tan or black rolls and is pre pasted.    Harry
For Sale - Parts / Re: 1958 PARTS AT HERSHEY
Last post by harry s - Today at 10:46:12 AM
It sold at Hershey.    Harry
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1969 Fleetwood Brougham Fo...
Last post by Big Fins - Today at 10:43:47 AM
We're on the last 3 hours of the auction. Jump in there if you want a good, dependable car.
For Sale - Parts / Re: 1958 PARTS AT HERSHEY
Last post by MIKIMBIN1 - Today at 10:39:38 AM
Hi good morning, do u sold the Tri Power?
A wonderful world about our enjoying the fruits of someone else's labors "way back when." I have often wondered how the several limousines that I have owned were used when new. I have mentioned before how I found unfaded lighter blue carpet up against the division window bulkhead of a 1941 Imperial and wondered how on earth the chauffeur kept the rear clean in the winter.

Just after my wife bought her beloved 1979 SDV, we were going on a trip to Southern Indiana where we'd never been except driving through it on the way to her folks in Tennessee. Our first stop was the elegant French Lick Hotel. At the time, I was driving a 1977 Toronado and should have taken it as there was the possibilty of snow.

But, we took the Cadillac instead. And I got the same sense of Cadillac ownership when I pulled beneath the portico and let the porter remove our luggage from the trunk. And I'll never forget what Mrs.(Dave) Towell said to the porter when checking out of the hotel their first night on the way back from CA to OH driving their just purchased 1930s V-16. "It's the car out front." (Turn left at Tumcumcari) S/S circa 1965.No further clarification was needed.

A wonderful article, and might I suggest that you give Jeff Shively, our S/S editor a call, and see if he'd be interested in sharing your work with the entire Club VIA the Self Starter.
The aperture into the chromed ring is not centered compared to the middle position of the turn signal lever. The turn indicator switch is screwed into that chromed ring. I would remove it, make the attaching holes larger till the switch is centered. You will have to remove the steering wheel for that. I have to say that this rework may not be possible, I don't remember if the switch can be rotated a bit with enlarged holes.. If not, you could enlarge the aperture into the chromed ring. With those cars, we have to be sometimes creative...