Hard to Remove Rear Tires

[Cadillac101]

On my 1958 it is difficult to remove the rear tire/wheel assembly from the car.

The car is completely stock except that it has radial tires and when I put the car up on the lift the rear axel hangs down as one would expect however the slot available to slide the wheel out between the brake drum and the rear wheel opening is too narrow to slip the wheel out.

I have had this issue when I modified a car with wider/offset rims and performance suspension and anti-sway bars ect and I have been working on cars for over 4 decades so I know the right end of a torque wrench...so I was surprised when this completely stock car had so much trouble that I had to let the air out of the tires to get them off.

-The rear shock seems long enough in extension so that the axel hangs down just far enough to where the brake hose is almost straight (much farther and the brake hose would need to be lengthened.

-The lug nut studs are not excessively long

-The fender has the chrome trim around the wheel lip and this wheel lip molding is about the same width as the metal fender so the fender lip is not too wide (bodyman forgot to trim it off correctly).

-The shocks are a gas filled shock so perhaps since they are aftermarket they do not extend as far as the stock olio type shock absorber...I think that the brake hose could straighten out just a little more so perhaps the shocks are the culprit.

So if anyone has had this issue and found a solution...I sure could use the advice!!!

THANKS!!!

[V63]

The problem is the 'modern' radial tires are simply fatter than the original  820 x 15

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Bill,

I feel your troubles, but from what I have found, with these cars, especially ones using Wheel Spats, is that the best way of removing the tyre is to jack up one side, using the Bumper Jack, as supplied with the car.

This way drops the wheel being removed a lot lower as the opposite side is pushed further up into the Fender, allowing the axle to pivot further downwards.

What happens is that when dropping the axle as a unit, the Shockers hold the axe from going too low, but when dropping one side, and pushing the other side upwards, the length of the axle from the shocker to the outside falls further as the axle pivots at that shocker.   It is all about angles, movement and leverage.

Bruce.

PS.   And yes, modern tyres are different aspects than the originals.   But, remember that these cars were designed for what was available at the time of design and build.

[Michael Petti]

Another suggestion is to deflate the tire. It will then come off. I carry a small electric air pump in my 1960 and a 12foot extension cord that hooks directly to the battery so as not to stress the old wiring when using it.  It's very useful on the road.

[dn010]

I have 235/75R15s on my 57 and I have no issue when raising it one side at a time as described above.

[Cadillac101]

Greetings and thanks for the replies...

Well I thought of the deflating the tire (Tyre) bit however with complete embarrassment I did not think of the jack up only one side of the car bit...

Good information thanks

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

The thing about these Bumper Jacks, is that they were supplied to get the wheels off and on when getting flat tyres.   Not for working under the car.

Plus, the Bumper Bars were designed to allow the car to be lifted by the jacks.   BUT, instructions have to be followed as if one puts it in the wrong place, damage can be done.

Australian GM in the 40's and 50's supplied an Hydraulic Bumper Jack that were locally made, and these are beautiful as when jacking the car, it is just pumping up, but lowering, no pumping back down, but a twist of the pushrod, and down it comes.   The faster the turn, the faster the lowering.

Bruce.

[fishnjim]

Another "trick".
lay some rug/cardboard or something on the ground under the drum, so don't scar the WW.
Jack the car up any method.   
Place the wheel face side down centered under the drum.
Rotate the wheel up from below onto the drum and it'll clear the fender well.   The width of the radials is more than the height.   
A lot of tire places recommend 235s and the comparable to the original is actually 205 do the math, 8"x25.4 mm/"= 203.   I went 215 radial bias look and still had trouble til I figured it out.  I also tried deflated and it doesn't work very good.  Try massaging a limp tire into the wheel well.  Less trouble if you have the right size tire. 
I think I'd call someone if I ever get a flat on the road.  There's no jack in this car, and I'm not a fan of those factory bumper jacks, and have lots of experience with them, they work, scary but need a stable base, which you don't find on the roadside.   I'm surprise they were sued over these.  There was a certain year where they weren't made right and would not hold and come down on you but a long time ago.

[Lexi]

Same issue with my '56 as it has fender skirts and no high cut wheel well. I do a variation of what Bruce suggested (but also used his technique back in the day). I use my hydraulic jack on the frame near the wheel you want to jack. That gives me body clearance but don't go any higher than need be. Then I put a bottle jack, or my other floor jack, under the differential to give it just enough for the wheel to clear the ground. Has worked fine for years, at least with my car. The bumper jack thing works but as fishnjim noted they are indeed scary to use on these cars. My car has repro bias plys so they are probably not as wide as some modern radials which will add to your woes. Clay/Lexi