Recent posts

#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 lack of spark

Last post by J. Gomez - Today at 09:07:29 PM

How do you test that on the coil? I want to make sure our process matches lol. It looks like we're getting 9v.

Matt,

You will need to refer to the Service Manual wiring diagram to follow the ignition wiring layout.

1-   When cranking you will get a solid +12V from the starter solenoid "yellow" wire up to the + side of the coil. This is needed to get the max spark from the coil.
2-   Once the engine starts the ballast resistor should drop the voltage (around 9V) up to the coil "black" wire, the "pink" wire from the ignition switch has the +12v and is connected to the ballast resistor.
NOTE: Both the "yellow" and "black" wire should be at the same connector on the ballast resistor.

As for your other question, there is only one ground strap from the – side of the battery which as you posted is attached on the top of the chassis (just below the battery tray) and up to the bell housing where the starter is bolted.

There are two small ground straps on both side of the heads (rear) attached to the firewall covers.

Good luck..!

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 lack of spark

Last post by Dave Shepherd - Today at 08:56:43 PM

Should have 12v during cranking, but it still would have spark at 9v. Check spark across the points, cranking, check the gap of course. Do you have spark out of the coil wire to ground?

#3

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 lack of spark

Last post by caddyorganist - Today at 08:37:18 PM

Got 12v to the coil positive terminal on cranking? Points good, proper gap? Rotor ok?. All basic ignition checks.

How do you test that on the coil? I want to make sure our process matches lol. It looks like we're getting 9v.

#4

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 lack of spark

Last post by Dave Shepherd - Today at 08:23:57 PM

Got 12v to the coil positive terminal on cranking? Points good, proper gap? Rotor ok?. All basic ignition checks.

#5

Technical / Authenticity / 1956 lack of spark

Last post by caddyorganist - Today at 08:19:28 PM

I'm trying to figure out why my 56 SDV has no spark. I've read through the forum and can't seem to get a clear answer on where the negative ground strap connects, assuming that could be part of the problem. The one from the battery negative post is bolted to the frame and then there's one that runs from that bolt to the bell housing at the starter.

We've replaced the ballast resister/condenser block on the firewall because the old one was junk. We've tested it and it's showing the correct voltage. Also replaced the coil and it appears to be fine.

It cranks and we have interior lights, but no spark. I was told that a bad ground strap could be the issue.

Matt G.

#6

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Replace hubs with bearings...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 07:10:39 PM

Where have you found replacements?  If its new production I would be a little concerned about the quality.    The GMC RV's I think used a slightly different hub and I know were buying up Eldo and Toro front ends to use as cores so they would certainly have good used hubs laying around that had little value to most of their customers.  I'm pretty sure they would sell you a rebuilt knuckle assembly too you just had to let them know that you wanted it for an Eldo and not an RV.   

#7

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1959 Autronic Eye Schemati...

Last post by J. Gomez - Today at 06:41:49 PM

Interesting design, that photo tube does not have
ANY power applied.  The tubes I suppose are from
the same 12V plate series used in the 57-62 radios. 
We had no extremely high Z input field effect
transistors then, so it could not go all transistor. 
And that ballast tube still present, left over from
when they started converting 30s battery radios to
run on the power line.  Bruce Roe

@bcroe

The phototube tube unit do has power for the filament about 2.5V and its drop down to 8V from the ballast tube and down via the large variable resistor (you know to old traditional brute force layout for voltage drop  ).

The same 2.5V is applied to the cathode of the phototube via the sensitivity control for the tube conductivity from the cathode, the "plate" from it then control the screen grid of the amplifier tube 5948660 (which is the 12K5) as a driver which controls the relay for switching. 

#8

General Discussion / Re: 1949 Cadillac Convertible ...

Last post by Jay Friedman - Today at 06:18:38 PM

I suggest you buy a 48-49 Authenticity Manual which has photos of convertible tops, as follows:

https://gmclubapparel.com/products/cadillac-and-lasalle-authenticty-manuals?variant=40118221570150

#9

General Discussion / rear pinion seal replacement

Last post by Toms sedanette - Today at 06:08:11 PM

I HAVE A 3 3/4 OD PINION SEAL 49 CADILLAC. IT HAS A METAL BELL COVERING IT. LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE TO RUIN THE COVER TO GET TO THE SEAL. CAN ANYONE HELP?

#10

Restoration Corner / Re: '40 Lasalle project finall...

Last post by Jeff Hansen - Today at 05:27:22 PM

The whole thing is an assembly.

It is quite possible that the wire inside the armored cable has deteriorated and could be shorting out.

Contact CLC member Marty Watkins in Bensalem (northeast Philadelphia), PA.  Marty may be able to rebuild your switch for you.  For many years, he has been refurbishing these assemblies.  If yours is rebuildable, he can disassemble the switch, replace the wire in the armored cable, and reassemble.  You'll need to send the assembly to him for diagnosis, but that's easier than finding a new switch.

HTH,
Jeff