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#71
General Discussion / Re: 1951 Caddy daily driver
Last post by dn010 - Yesterday at 10:04:59 AM
It is supposed to be checked in neutral with engine idling and while the car is on a level surface.
#72
General Discussion / Re: New to the Club and Need S...
Last post by badpoints - Yesterday at 10:02:54 AM
You should try to find a good mechanic who can do maintenance and repairs on the car when needed.
32 psi is good for about any tire.
#73
General Discussion / Re: Tire advice?
Last post by dn010 - Yesterday at 10:00:38 AM
This thread is over 8 years old...
#74
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1941 Hydra-Matic Transmiss...
Last post by toybox - Yesterday at 10:00:20 AM
 John,           My big concern would be how (smooth) the yoke  is where the seal rides if that is not a polished finish the the seal wont last and this job will be for nothing. As you said someone replaced it already and I assume you are replacing it because it failed again. Some 1000 grit wet paper and a little time will go along way here. Also some sealer around the outer perimeter of the seal where it seats to the housing is a good idea.
                                                                                      Tim
#75
General Discussion / Re: 2024 USA 235,225,215 / 75 ...
Last post by dn010 - Yesterday at 09:54:01 AM
I also have Nexen AH5s with the thin white wall on my 57, I forgot about these tires on this car until I went to go move the car yesterday, so that makes 3 cars in my fleet with these tires. I do recall I purchased them on Amazon and my car took 235/75R15s. They were $80 a piece when I got them. 

Quote from: 81 BENY Biarritz on March 26, 2024, 07:21:30 PMI purchased a set of the Nexen AH5s for my Eldo in the 225/70/15 size to match the original size that came with the Touring Suspension option that is on the car.  Coopers were available in the standard tire size but weren't available in a WW in the lower profile size.  Bought them online via E-bay and was very pleasantly surprised when they all arrived together and with pretty much the same fresh date codes on them.  Have had them for at least three years now and the whitewalls do not go brown.  I haven't put many miles on them but they ride fine and look good on the car.  I was happy enough with them to purchase another set for my Seville about a year ago and again they arrived on my doorstep in perfect condition and all with recent date codes.  Haven't put any miles on them yet but for the price I thought they were a great deal especially given how hard it is to find WWs.   
#76
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Fan belt 1938 346 size
Last post by LaSalle5019 - Yesterday at 09:50:25 AM
Look in the Self Starter November-December 2013 issue. That is where John Washburn's article is. This doesn't solve your problem but will give you all the specs.

Maybe these folks could help out?

https://www.mibelting.com/v-belts.html
#77
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Fuel filter bubbles bowl n...
Last post by Lexi - Yesterday at 09:39:25 AM
Quote from: Bob Kielar on Yesterday at 07:50:16 AMThanks for the replies. The mechanic is coming over today to do some vacuum and pressure checks. Will report back.
Regards,
Bob

All good comments. I have owned several 1956 Caddies and they always ran around town with the fuel filter bowl basically near empty. My current '56 has most everything rebuilt under the hood including engine, carb, new fuel pump. The fuel filter on the '56 is mounted right side up, (so glass bowl facing upwards). This "running on empty" fuel filter issue always bothered me. I could never get any of my cars to drive around with the filter anywhere near full. Usually looks empty, (or near so), with lots of bubbling action. Like the cylindrical glass sight glass on the top of an old time coffee pot when percolating. I have installed a separate electric fuel pump on a separate line, just in case. I can turn it on and off as required. A few years back I wrote a piece either for this or the old Mid-Century Cadillac Forum on these matters. Pasted below are my comments, albeit for a 1956 Cadillac. As I recall the specifications given on the push rod length also apply to your 1955 engine. Let us know how you make out! Article attachement begins here:

Fuel pump efficiency tests, (done with an assistant), on the mechanical fuel pump for a 1956 Cadillac include:

1) Volume output - disconnect OUTLET line, (carb side of pump) and place end of line in a container. Run car for 45 seconds to 1 minute at idle. You should get 1 - 1.5 pints of gas if output OK.

2) Crank only test with coil wire off (no engine starting wanted here) for about 20 sec. You should get about 1/2 pint of gas if OK, OUTLET side.

3) Vacuum test at idle with a vac gauge at pump INLET side. Disconnect line here and fit gauge to pump. Start car. A normally filled carb bowl will permit your car to run for at least a minute or more with the fuel pump disengaged. Run car and observe gauge. Normal minimum vacuum should be 10 - 13 inches. I believe the gauge needle indicator should be steady. If it fluctuates, especially wildly, again, I believe that is indicative of an air leak. If this asspect of my comments require additional comments, please chime in.

4) Pressure test at OUTLET side of fuel pump. The reading on your vacuum gauge should be 5.5 psi with engine running at idle, (4 - 6.5 as per shop manual). I believe there is a separate section to read this on your vacuum gauge dial.

5) Check torque for the approximate 10 hold down screws around the perimeter of your pump (unless yours is a crimped unit w/o screws).

6) Check all connections as well as strainer nut seal, (see my earlier post) and strainer screen for debris. There should be no air leaks here. Note: A strainer nut air leak will not reveal itself with leaky fuel. It will suck air and seriously affect engine operation. This is often a serious culprit in fuel delivery problems with these cars. To be sure I wrapped my strainer nut threads with gas fitters tape to be sure seal is tight. There is also a sealing washer there.

7) Run car from a gas can if you think there is a problem somewhere in the fuel line before the pump or at the car's gas tank, as a test.

8) Check lines for kinks & blow out with compressed air both directions, gently

9) If all fails consider checking push rod length as might be worn, manual says should be 7.1425" - 7.1475" long. If OK but you suspect still a problem check manual for specs on push rod travel and possible causes. Tests done with car at room temperature as per manual. If you suspect a leaking well plug in your carburetor inspect your engine oil for odour of gasoline. I also believe a leaky pump diaphram may cause gas to also leak into your engine. If you remove the pump and push rod, you may have to slightly 'bump' the engine to make it easier to fit the pump back on if push rod on high end of stroke and interferes with pump lever when re-installing. You may have to tear down the pump to inspect the internals.

Clay/Lexi

Edit 1: 1956 Cadillacs were known for generating lots of heat under the hood and "running hot", a recipe for vapour lock.
Edit 2: Cannot emphazise enough the BS that these strainer nut leaks can cause. I believe your 1955 pump should have one. My new, reproduction fuel pump back in 2019 leaked air through this strainer nut right out of the box. This nut is the large one you see on top of the fuel pump. I think its size is 7/8, like the oil filter cartridge size top nut. You can't miss it.
Edit 3: James Landi's comment on pin hole leaks might be your culprit. It got me thinking to search for the above old text to re-post with an added bit on those pesky strainer nuts. Thank you James!


#78
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1941 Hydra-Matic Transmiss...
Last post by LaSalle5019 - Yesterday at 09:38:20 AM
I would install a Speedi-Sleeve. I have used them on a number of applications with excellent results. I just put one on the harmonic balancer on my 1962 Olds F-85.

Measure the diameter of your yoke then go to the SKF website and look up the correct part number for that size. The SKF site also has all the info on how to install (pretty simple). Once you have a part number, just put it in Google search and a number of vendors will come up.

https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve
#79
General Discussion / Re: New to the Club and Need S...
Last post by J. Skelly - Yesterday at 09:24:26 AM
Maria,

That's a beautiful car.  My grandmother had one in another color. 

Regarding the tires, if it has the original-type bias-ply tires, the owner's manual and driver's door should list the correct tire pressure.  The tire pressure is also listed on the outside of the tires. 

If it has radial tires, the tire pressure listed on the outside of the tire is just a recommendation.  Ride quality will depend on the brand and model of tire, and the tire pressure.  It might be best to go to a tire store that sells that brand to get their recommendation.   
#80
Sounds like you should be ok, as there is no pressure at that area, just static seal. Now they do make repair sleeves, particularly for harmonic balancers, you may want to look into that.