pertronix ignition for a '53 331

[Caddy Wizard]

I have been using Pertronix for many years on more than half a dozen Cadillacs with great reliability and no more fussing with points and condensers.  Better starting and power.


Here is a chart I put together of the Pertronix part numbers for our cars...


Year     Cadillac                Igniter     Igniter II      Coil       Plug Wires   
1938-1952 (6v Neg)   1183N6                          45011       708103   (90 deg. boots)
               
1953-1955 (12v)              1183                          40011        708102   (straight boots)
1953-1955 (12v)                            91183       45011        708102   (straight boots)
               
1956-1974                      1181                         40011        708102   (straight boots)
1956-1974                                     91181      45011        708102   (straight boots)

[bullet bob]

Thanks. I've ordered the 1183's and the 40011. Will be here end of next week..... Looking forward to installing them.

[hirvine]

I put Pertronix in my '60 convertible (390).  It made a big, positive difference.  Another option now available (not when I did mine) is a new, electronic distributor that fits a 331.  If other aspects of your distributor are not in good shape, that might be worth considering, but you can tell it's not original by looking at it.

As others have said, these systems want a true 12V at the coil, whereas when these cars were set up, they only got 12V to the coil when the starter was cranking (via a second wire attached to the starter).  You need to replace the "resistor wire" that gives the coil 6V when the ignition is on.

[bullet bob]

The way it was explained to me was that since I am replacing the coil also, I will need to by-pass the resistor relay also. Run both wires (+ & -) from the igniter to the corresponding + & - of the coil. Should be here Wednesday....

[bullet bob]

Also, how would you set the 'gap' using a dwell meter? Before, with points, I'd use a feeler gauge initially, check it with a meter and make any adjustments. Can you do the same thing using this Pertronix?

[35-709]

Hope you are using the Pertronix II, easier installation than the I and is an upgrade from the I.
You do not "set the gap" with the Pertronix II.  The dwell is set and maintained by the unit, you will have no further need for a dwell meter on that car, and it won't be a reading of 30 as you might be used to.   As per the installation instructions (on the II), you DO use a feeler gauge (.30) to set the gap between the shutter wheel and the magnetic pickup when doing the installation, it is in the instructions.  Once that gap is set, you are also done with a feeler gauge. 

[35-709]

To add - if you are using the Pertronix I you might have to remove the distributor.  It installs somewhat differently.  Whether you are using their coil or not (I don't always), you must bypass the resistor (on the firewall for a '53 I believe) so that the coil is getting a full 12 volts at all times. 
Installation instructions for the Pertronix I and II can be found on the internet by Googling, "Installation Instructions for Pertronix I" --- same for Pertronix II.  Might help you to read them over to familiarize yourself with the procedure in advance.  Of course, instructions will come with your unit.

[bullet bob]

Thanks. I just figured that if, for example, you set the gap at .0030 and that gave you a dwell reading of say 33, if you widened the gap slightly, you could bring the dwell reading down somewhat. Apparently it doesn't matter. Thanks for your help.
BTW, I went with the Pertronix 1. Hopefully I don't have to remove the distributor.

[bcroe]

I used all the horses my 60s engines could deliver, many
times a day.  My experience with points, was they started
missing when new, and just got worse from there.  I built
an electronic ignition for my first car, what a relief. 
This may not sound like your driving. 

That distributor in back is a pain for points, but it is
great to have it out of the way on a very low maintenance
HEI.  That location solves the oil pump priming problem
of those front angle mounts.  Bruce Roe

[Gabe Davis]

For those of you that have installed these systems, what type did you use?

There are Ignitor, Ignitor II and Ignitor III. They each seem to have more "energy" than the former and III adds the ability to set a rev limit.

There are also the lobe sensing versions as well. You don't have to remove the distributor to install those.

Any thoughts on the pros and cons of the lobe sensing vs. removing the distributor to install the magnet ring? Is one more reliable than the other?

[Chuck Swanson]

Have used Breakerless LE for over 10 years, multiple cars.  No issues and no "special" coil needed, no extra wires, etc...easy install.   

https://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless-se-electronic-ignition-conversion

Here are just a few of the features:

"FEATURES:
* Single-Wire Operation: This is the ONLY single-wire module available on the market. Which means to function, you only need to connect 1 wire to the module (your existing black wire leading from the distributor to the ignition coil). This not only simplifies installation, but preserves the stock appearance of the factory wiring. All of the "other systems" require 2 or 3 wires to operate, resulting in a much more complex installation, cutting into your wiring harness, and a non-original appearance.

* Easy Installation: The entire system can be installed in about 15-20 minutes. You do NOT need to remove your distributor from your vehicle to install this kit.

* Auto Shut-Off: Protects the coil & ignition, and prevents a dead battery should the key be accidentally left in the ON position."

Chuck

[Gabe Davis]

Chuck,

Thanks for bringing up the Breakerless SE. I hadn't heard of that one before. Doing some quick searching shows a lot of love for it in the various forums I came across. It looks like an ideal setup for a pretty much stock car without having to change anything else related to the ignition system if you don't want to. The reliability seems solid too.

[Standardoftheworld]

On our 69 Deville I used an Accell points eliminator kit, easy to install, didn't have to pull the distributor and you also don't have to eliminate the factory resistor wire, it will work with it and the stock coil, improved starts and better acceleration, silky smooth idle as well is what I witness3e after the swap. Took about 1.5 hours taking my time. About 99 bucks online. Good deal.