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1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

Started by Roger Zimmermann, July 12, 2019, 01:40:19 PM

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Roger Zimmermann

During a discussion with a guy belonging to a scale model forum, he gave me some ideas, some utopic, some useful. The best idea was to use carboard and glue the bands on it with instant glue. Fortunately, the glue is not so instant (except on fingers) and very minor adjustments can be done. I tried that method with 3 bands. Obviously, the result is not too bad.
Another lesson with that project: sometime less is more. Explanation: I have two different tools to make the waves, a long one and a shorter one which is giving crisper angles: first the band is shaped into the long tool, then into the short one and again into the long tool. This time, I used only the long one and I have less issue with the pitch. Some waves are not exactly the same with the next ones, I had this issue by using both tools too.

 513 New tentative.JPG
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Lexi

#601
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 30, 2023, 10:17:37 AMDuring a discussion with a guy belonging to a scale model forum, he gave me some ideas, some utopic, some useful. The best idea was to use carboard and glue the bands on it with instant glue.

Hi Roger. The first thing I thought of when I heard that the glue bonds to fingers was "Super Glue". If memory serves that is chemically known as cyanoacrylate ester, (CA), one of at least 4 types of cyanoacrylate. There may be newer forms now. We used it in the lab as a fingerprint reagent. Perhaps the recepie for "Super Glue" has been modified, but we were always advised that it did not work as well when bonding paper products such as cardboard. Seem to recall that it did not polymerize as well in an acidic environment. In fact, we sometimes added acid to delay polymerization and prolong the CA fuming process we used when processing exhibits. Mention for what its worth, in case you may wish to explore other adhesives or a cyanoacrylate that is modified for use on wood, etc. Would not like to see your work come undone. Perhaps the newer formulations of such glues is more amenable to bonding such products. And yes, CA is great for bonding skin and also for its fumes to cause your eyes to tear (lacrimnator). Think it was first used during the Vietnam war to quickly close wounds that otherwise would require stitches, but not available on the battlefield. Clay/Lexi

Roger Zimmermann

Let speak the chemist! Yes, I'm using now that super glue. When I tried to save the 3 bands from the above picture, I let the assembly into water. If some cardboard could be peeled away, the cardboard which was previously wet with that glue was hard enough to stick to the brass. That assembly landed in the waste!
Years ago, somebody told me that attaching small letters to my models would fail with the time and the name plate could fell of the model. He did not say when that will happen: 10 months, 10 years, 100 years? Those scripts are still on the models; I have to say that I don't wash them very often!
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Lexi

Humidity is the catalyst or agent that initiates the polymerization of the CA. That is why it sticks your fingers together as it immediately reacts to the moisture in your skin. Ambient temperature is also a factor that impacts set up, with cooler temps slowing down the cure rate and higher temps speeding set up time. A quick moving hair dryer would probably help to shorten the curing. Too much heat and moisture can effect cured properties (weaken the bond). Probably not a factor with your project. The downside of CA is that it is brittle. The up side is the quick set up time. Love your attention to detail Roger. Great work. Clay/Lexi

Roger Zimmermann

Finally, the front of the radiator is finished. I'm satisfied at 90%; fortunately, the shutter blades will hide most of the ungainly appearance. With time, I improved the making and gluing each strip (about 140); I hope that the back side (the one viewed facing the engine) will have more regularity.
The lower water tank is just there for the picture.

515 Ready.JPG

1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Roger Zimmermann

Finally the other face is ready. Even if I was more careful, the end result is not much better than on the first face. I did the bands with the same process, however, some would have a pitch a tad different than the other ones. To make both parts, the bands I cut would represent a length of about 16 meters (52 feet). I had a rejection of about 20 to 25% because the width of the rejected bands were either too large or too small. I'm glad it's over!
What you see on the pictures is the pre-assembled core. I still have to add some elements like water inlets and outlet.

516 Radiator.JPG517 Radiator.JPG518 Radiator.JPG   
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

GBrown #8092

No matter how many times I see your work, I remain in awe!

Glenn

carguyblack

Same here, Glenn.
Roger, just amazing observing your skill, patience and creativity.
Beautiful work!
Chuck
Chuck Dykstra

1956 Sedan DeVille
1956 Coupe DeVille (2 sold)
1957 Oldsmobile 98 (sold)
1989 Bonneville SSE

Roger Zimmermann

Thanks for the kind comments!
When the radiator will be installed on the frame, the flaws at the honeycomb will hardly be visible. A narrow shroud will also be added, plus both water hoses.

519 view from the engine.JPG
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

cadman59

Feiko Kuiper - Netherlands (Europe)

1959 Cadillac Series SixtyTwo 6-Window Sedan
https://instagram.com/feikokuiper

billyoung

One of one worldwide I am sure. As an owner of Brass O scale 2 rail Steam Locomotive models I appreciate the brass fabrication as well as the exacting soldering technique's. Stupendous !
Age 68, Living in Gods waiting room ( Florida ) Owned over 40 Old Cadillac's from 1955's to 1990 Brougham's. Currently own a 1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible and a 1992 Cadillac 5.7 Brougham.

Roger Zimmermann

1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Roger Zimmermann

The water inlets and outlet were added, as well as the attachment points for the shroud. When I first put the radiator on the frame, I saw that the fan was too large, exceeding the width of the radiator. I corrected that too.
We are not yet over with the radiator: I just did the attaching holes at the frame for the shutter. I don't know yet how I will do the 15 blades constituting that device; I'm wondering too if I will do it adjustable or if the blades will be soldered on the frame.

521 details added.JPG520 With frame for shuter.JPG 
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

cadman59

Hi Roger,

I suppose you already pressure-tested it, making sure it won't leak  ;)

Just kidding of coarse, I admire your craftmanship.
Feiko Kuiper - Netherlands (Europe)

1959 Cadillac Series SixtyTwo 6-Window Sedan
https://instagram.com/feikokuiper

Roger Zimmermann

The past few days, I did the 15 blades for the shutter. I had to crate a special tool to have the more or less same profile at each blade.
In between, I decided to made the blade adjustable. For those not familiar with those old cars, the radiator has a thermostat actuating a lever connected to the blades, opening or closing them depending of the water temperature. I don't know if that system was very reliable because each blade has three pivots which cannot be lubed unless the radiator surround was removed. Maybe some lubrication was possible through the holes from the grille...
Once the blades were done, I have to solder a flange at each end, which is the easy job. I began with the flanges from the bottom as the ones from the top have a different shape.
How to drill the flanges to have some precision? Again, a new tool was constructed. It's a 3-parts tool: two parts are maintaining the blade in the same way; the third part is on top with a hole to guide the drill bit. That third part is attached with screws and pins to have hopefully the hole at the same place. The strange set-up was needed because I cannot drill a hole by resting on the blade
The next task is to do the flanges at the other end and modify the special tool.

522 Strange set-up.JPG523 Special tool.JPG524 Blades to be bored.JPG   

1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Roger Zimmermann

I'm glad all 15 blades are finished without major accident. Then, it was time to assemble the whole package. I soldered pins on top of the shutter frame; on the bottom, I did a bar with the needed pins. The assembly requires steady hands and it can be done without too much drama. The lower bar with the pins is jamming lightly when installed, therefore no gluing or soldering is needed. I will have to ad retainers to the actuating bar on top because it disengages very easily from the blades; this will be done after final painting.
Due to minute dimension differences, the blades are not opening or closing as much as I expected, but this is really a minor detail. The actuating rod coming from the thermostat is still missing. Of course, I will not do the thermostat; however, there is a cover to hide it, it's not yet done.
I will do now the radiator's surround which allows the radiator to be firmly attached to the frame.

525 Open.JPG526 Partially closed.JPG527 Closed.JPG   
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

billyoung

I realize that you are only modeling the V16 Chassis, however if you were to choose a body to model I am curious which body style would be your favorite?
Age 68, Living in Gods waiting room ( Florida ) Owned over 40 Old Cadillac's from 1955's to 1990 Brougham's. Currently own a 1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible and a 1992 Cadillac 5.7 Brougham.

Roger Zimmermann

When I began that project, I wrote that I don't know if it will be a complete car's model. For now, I'm doing the frame and engine and, depending if I still can go further, I will ad fender, hood, grille and maybe the rest of a body. If I should  do a body, it will be a roadster.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

billyoung

Interesting, That would be my choice also. Some years ago there was a large scale model of a V16 Roadster built it sold new for around $500.00 foolishly I cheapend out and did not buy one and regret it as when one surfaces they trade for much more now.
Age 68, Living in Gods waiting room ( Florida ) Owned over 40 Old Cadillac's from 1955's to 1990 Brougham's. Currently own a 1968 Cadillac DeVille Convertible and a 1992 Cadillac 5.7 Brougham.

Barry M Wheeler #2189

Roger, I haven't looked at your work for some time. And as usual, seeing the finished product, words completely fail me.

Just wondering. Are you going to fasten the radiator to the frame with nuts and bolts as original???


I'm just kidding! Don't even think about it or you might actually try to do it.
Barry M. Wheeler #2189


1981 Cadillac Seville
1991 Cadillac Seville