1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[bctexas]

What Toronado ?

I found it on this page:

http://craftsmanshipmuseum.com/2019/Zimmermann.htm

[Roger Zimmermann]

Ah! This was done a relative long time ago...

[Roger Zimmermann]

For the moment, the rubber boots for the front brakes are a flop. As I wanted to cut corners, that's the result! I did the negative molds with silicone rubber and attempted to make the boots by using directly the rubber molds. Next to the alignment issue with two soft parts, the wax was probably used too sparingly and one boot's half stayed into the mold. Now, I'm taking another short cut by casting one half mold with hard resin. I hope I can remove the positive brass part from the hardened resin...
Another detail had to be added: the lower water tube going from the radiator to the water pump. From the myriad number of pictures I have, there is just one photo partly showing the tube. From the water pump, the tube is going between  the crankcase and the generator's air outlet, then by doing a large curve, the tube is going between the draft tube and the frame and finally up to the radiator. The first curve is making sense: the generator can be removed without disturbing the water circuit.
I had to rework the RH draft tube as it was on the way to the tube...
Like the draft tubes, I hope that the water tube is more or less approaching the reality!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Roger,
Hello from sunny America again! Wondering if since you live in Switzerland, have you ever created your own watch?? Your intricate work and all the hand tooling reminds me of that. I'm sure you could if you haven't yet tried that.
You are high up on that pedestal of mine, for sure.
Chuck

Sorry Chuck, I did not respond to your remark. Doing a watch? No way! I don't have the equipment to do that and, frankly, this is a domain I'm not especially attracted...

[Roger Zimmermann]

The brass part representing the outer surface from the boot was easily removed from the epoxy resin. Unfortunately, there were bubbles at the edge of the separation surface, rendering the part non usable. I did a new one; this time, I used my electric vacuum pump to avoid the issue. This time, I had no problem. After letting the resin for some days until it's hard, I was ready to do the second halve. I did the walls with plastiline as cardboard was not practical. The first half was less than the exact half from the brass part; as a consequence, the second part was over the middle of the embedded part. Will I be able to remove the brass part?
The very slow setting of the resin allowed me to remove the brass part easily: after two days, the resin is still flexible. On the picture four holes can be seen; they will used to insert pins to have both parts in the proper position.
While the resin was slowly getting set, I began with the hub caps. This is a simple part with one difficulty: the octagon at the center. This will make the mold more complicated to do. Till I'm finding a solution, I did the retaining rings which will be soldered on the hub caps; one (the seventh) is on the wheel.

 

[Roger Zimmermann]

The molds for the brake's rubber boots went well. However, the first try to make one piece is so so: I had to cut it to remove it from the internal core. I'm wondering if the black product I have to ad at the transparent resin is not the reason why those parts are lacking some strength. I will try with the white material I have.
In between, I finished the ignition coils and I glued them to the radiator. The tiny screws are fake and therefore are just for the show.
Another detail: the caps for the oil filling at the heads are now done. Easy parts, except the 80 grooves at the outside diameter... The process was similar to the ribs for the water hoses.

 

[Roger Zimmermann]

Some time ago, I began the hub caps. Small, just an octagon décor on the center...will be quickly done. For the dies, I recycled old wheel cover ones, therefore I had not too much brass waste. The issue with the octagon became such a difficulty I had to change my plan.
As you can see from the picture, the LH lower hub cap has two problems: the octagon is not centered and the brass is teared. The centering could be solved; with more play between the male and female dies I could avoid the tearing, but the lines would not be sharp. The new plan: the octagon will be full brass, silver soldered on the dish. Then, the excess material at the back will be milled away as the hub caps are a tight fit with the central nut at each wheel. This method will allow to have sharp lines compensating the extra work.

[Roger Zimmermann]

After the summer break, it was time to resume the hub caps story. As the center part was unpractical to stamp, I did separate octagons and silver soldered them to the cap. Thanks to the possibility to use a small quantity of paste, no rework was needed and the joints were perfect without voids. To achieve that, the backs of the octagons had to be hollow, following that way the shape of the caps. Once soldered, the shaft was milled away.
Now, I have to soft solder the attaching flanges to the caps.

[Cadman-iac]

 Are you sure you're not actually a jeweler in disguise? Those are impressive Roger. Nice job.

 Rick

[Roger Zimmermann]

No, I'm not a jeweler...Thanks for your comment!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Finally, all hubcaps are more or less ready for plating. Some decals will be added later: the one in the middle and the black lines near the outside diameter. Maybe I will have to paint the lines because a flat decal will not go well on a curved surface...

[cadman59]

 Hi Roger,

With Micro Set and Micro Sol from Microscale (you can google it) you can get perfect results with decals on convex or other complex surfaces.

Respect for your craftsmanship!

Feiko
Netherlands

[Roger Zimmermann]

Feiko, thanks to the tip. I got the same response from another forum, the world is small! I was not aware that such product was existing. Learning every day something new!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Since I did the wheels for the model, I wondered how I could do the "beauty rings" which are installed on the rims. Turning from stock was not an option as the section is so small it cannot be held on jaws. Soldering on a support could be done, but for that  some turning would be anyway difficult. On day, I got the idea to do them with flat brass pressed between two dies. However, this system would produce a lot of waste. I came with the idea to use band shaped like a donut. To validate my idea, I did two tentative: one with a brass band 0.2mm thick and the other one with 0.3mm thick brass. Both were not easy to shape at the right diameter, but the thinner one was too delicate. The first prototype shown is with the thicker brass.



The second picture is showing the bands ready to be shaped; one is half way finished.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The other five rings are now finished. The main issue was to bring the outside diameter as the rings are not at all stable. Polishing them for plating will not be easy either!
The two other rings missing on the picture are temporarily on the spare wheels. On the right of the picture: the tools to shape the rings; they were first used for the Mark II's wheel covers, then modified for the hub caps and finally for the rings.

[Roger Zimmermann]

With some details still missing, the project of the frame and engine is coming to its end. I'm searching what I still could do before trying to do some body parts like grille or fenders.
One thing is need to complete the engine: the air cleaners. Fortunately, Alex D. gave me the vital dimensions and I could begin the parts which are looking like that:



One detail is the main difficulty: the apertures for the air. On a flat part, I could try to do that, but on a cylinder? I found a solution which should create a good illusion. For the moment, I'm showing what I have, the explanation will come later, if all is going as planed!

[Roger Zimmermann]

We continue with the air cleaners: I soft soldered each ring separately because for the next operation, the rings must not move.
If I had the proper cutting tool I could have done the upper part very quickly; unfortunately for me, I'm not equipped to shape cutting tools. Either you have the needed machines or time!

[Cadman-iac]

  Roger,
 Your craftsmanship never ceases to amaze me. If you could only make enough of this model for everyone who admires it as much as I do, you would have enough work for 50 years or more.
 Beautiful work and car and I can't wait to see the finished result.
 Keep up the great work and best wishes on the completion of this project.

   Rick

[Roger Zimmermann]

Rick, thanks for the comments!
When I was planning the '66 Toronado, a guy wanted that I'm doing also a duplicate for him (this was more than 55 years ago). I think the deal went bad when I began the financial aspect. After all, I was glad that this idea never went further as some talks! It's still the same today: no twin model, no matter the offered price.

Once all the rings were soft soldered, I could mill the excess material



and soften the edges between the grooves. The illusion to have openings should be more or less right.

[cadman59]

Looking great!!

As allways....