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Oil change 1976 Eldorado

Started by johnpaul, March 29, 2023, 09:08:24 PM

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johnpaul

I'm planning on changing the oil for the first time this weekend in my 1976 Eldorado convertible.  Is there anything specific or different that I should expect? I've done many oil changes on various cars.

The Tassie Devil(le)

Don't forget there are two drain plugs in the sump in these engines.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

TJ Hopland

If you are jacking up the front of the car remember its FWD so you have to chock the back wheels because park won't do any good if the front wheels are off the ground.  Setting the parking brake could be a bad idea if you don't if its been used recently, it could stick and if you are not ready to do the rear brakes now it could kind ruin your plans.  WHen you get to the rear brakes have the parts on hand or at least park the car in a place it can sit apart while you wait for parts.

Eldo is 6 quarts.  You will want something to redirect the oil when you change the filter.  I often use the box from the new filter.  If you don't put anything under it the oil will drip on the cross member.  Just takes a bit of cardboard to get it past the crossmember and sway bar. Being that the oil filter is at an angle on these I usually don't bother to try and pre fill it with new oil.  If you want you can put some in and just eyeball the angle so you don't overfill it and end up spilling it when you install it.

The front diff or technically called the final drive is in that general area so if that hasn't been checked or changed its right there.  The higher plug is the fill/level check.  Note the fill level is on level ground so if you have it up on ramps to change the oil the level won't be up to the top plug so if you are just checking it it would be normal to be a bit below the plug if the car is at an angle.

While you are down there is a good time to have a look at things like the CV boots. You are looking for cracks in the rubber or if they have already cracked grease leaking out of em.  If they are real bad you can have grease all over the tire.

Also while you are down there look and see which of the suspension parts have grease fittings.  Balljoints always do but I think some years factory tie rod ends didn't.  If there are not signs of fresh grease around the ones that have fittings maybe get a grease gun and hit em. 

Personally when I do oil changes I also suck what I can out of the power steering and refill with fresh fluid. I know that isn't like doing a flush but it gets some of the suspended crap out with each change and some fresh detergents n stuff in the mix.  If its a new to me car I may suck and replace run cycle the wheel end to end couple times then suck and refill till it starts to look less dark.  After that first time I just do one suck at each change.  If you don't have the machine doing a full flush can be kinda messy.

Don't forget the easy stuff like check your wiper blades.  Even if you don't plan to drive in the rain you want to have good blades.  You don't want to get caught in the rain and find out your blades are rotten and end up scratching an otherwise good windshield.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason