Please give us a leg up with recommendations on where to purchase the entire harness.
Thanks in advance.
Bill Rodwick
Are you looking for new replacements or original? I don't know of replacements but I got some good originals from members with parts cars.
Blade,
Were thinking new replacement.
Considering all the time, effort and dough he's put into the project using the old one that does not show well could lead to issues down the road.
Thanks.
BillR.
Bill,
I have a COMPLETE harness that was removed from a low mileage 60 Seville. Every connector is excellent and was tagged during the removal. It would have everything you could ever need.
Let me know if interested.
Brian rachlin@comcast.net
When I need new wiring, I'm buying there: http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
Bill,
I have gone over the decision dance many times on the 59's, and concluded that an OEM harness is preferable - for a great many reasons.
Often times the decision to do new or OEM is driven by at least - how many dollars or how much hassle.
You already took the first step - removed the OEM harnesses - and hopefully took many pictures, because they are your road maps to re-installation.
If they were really ratty, talk to Brian about his and compare completeness and body styles.
If you decide to go OEM - not new replacement - and want the OEM look(like me):
Each and every wire must be stripped of its "friction tape" wrapping, and cleaned of residual glue from the tape.
Each and every wire must be felt and viewed for nicked insulation and/or breaks, followed by repairs, including soldering where needed, twisting wires is not advised.
Pay particular attention to the fact that there are many splices which were part of the OEM fabrication process - check the remaining adequacy of those splices.
All connections will need to be cleaned and repaired to as close to OEM color, particularly where connections have been painted, over the years - or discoloration do to over heating (check wire to metal tab connections, inside the connectors).
Each and every wire must be tested for continuity to detect breaks which were perhaps overlooked - and repaired.
Belt and suspenders testing - the wires or harnesses, as a whole, must be moved around to further detect intermittent lack of continuity - to confirm the adequacy of repairs.(why, because you will be moving the harnesses around inside the car during installation, to get them from and to their connection points).
If all goes well, re-wrap the wires back into their respective harnesses making sure the attachment "plastic pushpins" are at their appropriate place as OEM, which adds for proper support of the harnesses, as originally designed, during installation.
A particular area of concern of damaged wires and harnesses, is in the areas of the kick panels and transitions from the kick panels to the doors, through the curved semi-open metal conduits, making sure the ears that hold the harness inside are there and working.
OK, you are probably saying why would I go through all of this - and maybe you should not.
And, if your friend wants to open the hood to folks who know, a replacement set of harnesses will stick right out.
If your friend doesn't care, buy the new replacement harnesses, and lay them out next to the OEM to confirm that, in all respects, they match.
Good luck, and have fun,
Steve B.
Steve B.,
Alot to consider.
I've passed it along to my son the '59 Caddy owner.
Thanks for sharing.
BillR.