Hello All,
I'm about to have my water pump on my 1939 Model 75 replaced. My question is, has anyone used the non water based permanent Evans antifreeze. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Best Regards,
Barry
Yes, I have experimented with it.
Good news it works! bad news it sure is expensive . . . .
First experience: 1959 Ford Galaxie convertible, 352 V-8. Nice running car no real cooling system issues. The owner got a case for free (6 gallons?) as a promotion so I got to play with it.
Drained the green antifreeze and blew out the heater core. (I did some back flushing too) I then filled the system with the Evans NPG. The instructions say that the NPG does NOT want water (H2O) and that it has an extremely high boiling point. To 'remove' all residual water from the system you are supposed to 'boil' it off.
I was working in a California garage on a 95-100 F degree day. I ran the car and circulated it until the thermostat was open and liquid was flowing through the system. (cap off) I then put a piece of cardboard behind the grille and in front of the radiator. Followed by a Radiator thermometer in the filler hole.
The thermometer rose pretty quickly to over 200 degrees, and steam began to flow from the filler hole. As it did the level dropped slightly and I added more Evans NPG. Eventually I was placing and removing the cardboard to keep the indicated temp ABOVE 210 but not above 230. (above the water boiling point) steam continued to emanate and after about 20-30 minutes it stopped.
By now I had driven off ALL the water by boiling and the system was filled completely with Evans NPG. I experimented with it and left the cardboard in place and let it get up to an indicated 230-240 on the thermometer.(remember no air flow through the radiator) Cap off - it sure felt hot, BUT IT DID NOT "BOIL". The liquid just circulated like it it was at 160 degrees.
I could pull the cardboard away and the indicated temp would fall quickly back to 160 and you could observe no difference at the two temp extremes. No belching, no overflow, no bubbles it just flowed. I also noted that the engine did not make the 'pinging' detonation noises that I would expect to hear with it idling or begin reved up at 230-260 degrees.
I then replaced the cap, and I didnt even care if it pressurized as that is not necessary with the Evan NPG. The car ran great for the next 3-4 years of use and then sat for the next 20+ years in a garage. When resurrected I topped off the system with about a quart? of Evans and the car was sold. I was happy to see that it did not evaporate or otherwise disappear through such a long storage.
Second experience: 1960 Ford Station wagon again a 352 motor. A good running but leaky type engine. I decided it was best to just pull it out replace the pan and other gaskets and remove the freeze plugs and dig out all the rust and sediment that I knew could not be flushed out.
There was PLENTY of rust in the block and I dug it all out with picks and screwdrivers. Finally the water jackets were clean. new freeze plugs, replace the engine, fill it with Evans NPG and while it ran "OK", the dashboard temp gauge pegged after 5-10 minutes of running and it pinged and knocked like a SOB.
Turns out that somewhere the block had 'rusted through'? or cracked? or the rust moved away from the head gaskets.Combustion was getting into the cooling system somewhere. In any event it would go from room temp to 270-280? in minutes. BUT the Evans stuff DID NOT BOIL! It did not bubble it just circulated and attempted to cool off in the radiator.
Amazing stuff!
Eventually I built another block/engine for the 1960 and threw the 'cracked' one out back. I also saved and reused the Evans NPG in the rebuilt engine and again after 15+ years it too is doing just fine.
Expensive? yeah but I think its worth it.
When I get the radiator back for my 1929 I plan to to put it in there.
I've used it for about the last 20 years in my '37 with good results. As described above it eliminates the "belching" when the engine is turned off. The key is to make sure all of the H2O is out of the system. There are two types of Evans, one flows faster than the other. I have used the faster flowing type. Not sure why two different types. Harry
So what would happen if you were kinda lazy and didn't try real hard to remove the water or do that bleeding process?
I'm not sure what would happen, but they do make a point of emphasizing that all water must be removed. I started out with a rebuilt engine and radiator so that was not a problem. Harry
Quote from: TJ Hopland on September 30, 2016, 09:31:10 AM
So what would happen if you were kinda lazy and didn't try real hard to remove the water or do that bleeding process?
Evans addresses that question on their website ---
http://www.evanscoolant.com/faq/installation/
They also make a "Prep Fluid" which helps get rid of any remaining water.
I'm not using Evans but find it interesting.