Does anyone know of a way to seal a Carb float on a 1930s Cad. Carb. that has developed a pinhole leak?? Will something like JB weld work? or some type of epoxy? Thanks Frank Pezzimenti
If it is a brass float, simply solder it.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce, Bruce, Bruce,
One needs to make sure the gas is out of the float before soldering or one might have a nice squirt of flame out of the float, or worse.
But I agree soldering is the best solution.
The Johnny
What about the added weight of soldering this can cause the float to sink some in the fuel bowl. Fuel resistant epoxy may be a better choice. Yes getting the fuel out of the float is problematic also.
Yeah Bruce, and before you do that make sure the motor is off.
Folks,
Soldering is the best way to go. A look at the float and one will notice solder at the joints. A little more added will not sink or degrade the ability of the float.
Dave not sure getting the gas out of the float is problematic. If one does not get it out the gas fumes are what can kill you when add too much heat or a spark.
My opinion the Johnny
and yes I was poking fun at Bruce.
Quote from: Dave Shepherd on January 17, 2018, 07:26:39 PM
What about the added weight of soldering this can cause the float to sink some in the fuel bowl. Fuel resistant epoxy may be a better choice. Yes getting the fuel out of the float is problematic also.
Easily done by drilling a hole where the problem is, and letting the fuel drain out. You're going to solder the hole right back up anyway. Wash the float with dishwashing liquid (like Dawn), and let it dry completely before soldering. Done........
Bobby
I'd look for a replacement first. Even if you have to scavenge a good/new float off something else that's close. You adjust the arm to the right level anyway.
If you try repair and it warps, doesn't seal or float after - excess solder can wick inside, you've ruined it and will need one anyway. It's difficult to solder a hole without a plug. A lap joint is what you see. It won't take much solder (~8 g/ml) to cancel a lot of gas (~0.8 g/ml) volume, Archimedes. There's "anti solder" that wicks away excess to minimize (electronics or electrical supply). If it's that badly rotted, it's not likely to last either. The loss of zinc content is the culprit.
If they sit with gas/dirt in the bowl, moisture gets in and they corrode. Best to drain bowl or run gas out, if sitting. A lot of motors in that day had a fuel shutoff cock or needle valve on the fuel bowl to do just that.
There might be someone who repairs them with new metal but I've not come across any.
Another one of those repair parts that you used to be able to get at local parts store that's gone by the way.
You might try the carb places, but prewar NOS is getting mighty scarce. A pre-war restorer might have leads. A rebuild kit may come with a float. I don't do prewar, so it's off my radar. I can get my era.
All good info by everybody, but I can tell after many years of carb rebuilds in my shop, any additional weight added to that float is going to affect it's buoyancy may not be much but will affect float level setting.I was posting this just as you were, sorry if any overlap.
If it is only a pinhole, heat the float with a hairdryer on your work bench, and then a drop of krazy glue will do the trick, but let it sit for about 2 or 3 hours after glue
Hmm, worth a try, wonder if ethanol would affect it, next time I'm going to try thst, let the float sit in fuel over nite to see what happens!
Quote from: 49 Convertible on January 17, 2018, 10:33:30 PM
If it is only a pinhole, heat the float with a hairdryer on your work bench, and then a drop of krazy glue will do the trick, but let it sit for about 2 or 3 hours after glue
Krazy glue was actually developed for Dental use until it was discovered that it gets broken down by saliva. Is Saliva more acidic or potent that Ethanol? ???
Bobby
I can attest that this will not work after trying every alternative for more than 30 years. If you have one pinhole corroded and attempt to enlarge it you will find more pinholes. Dave Sheppard is right on. Whatever you use to fill the hole will by its very nature spill inside. The weight of that as tiny as it might be will alter the setting completely. I have tried everything over the years and everything adds weight. Stromberg's and Carters are prone to it so I started buying NOS whenever I came across them then they started reproducing them.
If Franks name (frank37) means he has a 37 Cadillac these are easily available saving all this messing about. .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-55-STROMBERG-2-BARREL-MODEL-AA-BRASS-CARBURETOR-FLOAT-ALL-MODELS-NEW/252153466960?hash=item3ab5849050:g:Qq4AAOSwo0JWOOzs&vxp=mtr
Problem Solved---Thanks Steve I took your advice/link to order a newly made float off Ebay. After all, if there's one hole, who knows where the next one will occur and I really don't want to do this job all over again. Thanks to all for all the wisdom and advice Frank Pezzimenti
Call or email Daytona Parts. they probably have a new float for you.
https://daytonaparts.com/carburetor-kits-and-parts.html
David
He's already ordered one David. They are all over eBay.
Quote from: Steve Passmore on January 18, 2018, 11:25:20 AM
He's already ordered one David. They are all over eBay.
Steve,
Good Call ;)......For $50.00 I wouldn't have even bothered with it either. I thought they were unobtanium....
Bobby
Wish it was that simple.
Down here we HAVE to repair stuff, and simply soldering a brass float isn't that difficult.
I had to repair the one in my boat engine, but replaced the tank one with a cork one, as the float was caked full of crap.
The same will work for Cadillac, and this one is the "Cadillac" of boats.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce, we in Europe are more or less in the same "boat" than you! We cannot go to places like NAPA or whatever the people in the US can go and buy parts at a fair price. Therefore we have to be more creative!
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on January 18, 2018, 06:32:23 PM
Wish it was that simple.
Down here we HAVE to repair stuff, and simply soldering a brass float isn't that difficult.
Bruce. >:D
No not difficult Bruce, but it is more so with a twin-float type. It puts the whole balance out between the two and there is no room in the early carb for any counterbalance measures like bending the arm. Like you, nothing is available here but if they can be bought easily as these can and posted, why bother with the hassle?
I suppose I am just a cheap-scate.
Bruce. >:D
Internet is not a barrier to international trade. Govts can be. I've bought and sold hard to find parts across borders, as far as NZ. So seek and ye shall find, maybe, if it's not too rare or you'll accept repro.