This is the story of Lovey…the rebirth of a ’55 Eldorado. The car was made on 12/10/54 with the order placed 16th in line from when orders were accepted at the Cadillac plant on Clark St. in Detroit, Michigan. The original buyer died before taking delivery of the car. The Autobiography of Wallace Lovell I received with the car has the original buyer’s life history and the car is mentioned a few times in his work. When Mr. Lovell went to the Detroit Cadillac dealer in 1958 to purchase a car, he found this unsold ’55 in the service area covered up and inquired about it. The car must have been tied up in settling the first buyer’s estate and was not retailed until 1958. The car found an owner that day. I have the original Certificate of Origin title showing Wallace Lovell as the buyer and as was done for ’55 Eldorado’s, the badge on the center of the instrument panel has his name engraved in the Cadillac crest.
Mr. Lovell moved to Rome, GA around 1963 and the car spent most of the remaining time there. During that time the car was repainted a slightly darker copper than the original copper, updated with ’56 Eldorado exterior trim and the original tan leather interior was replaced with a “modern” theme of the day, white vinyl tuck and roll with embroidered musical themed images. Getting the replacement interior bits turned out to be one of the most challenging parts of the restoration.
Around 2010, Mr. Lovell gifted the car to his Grandsons army commanding officer and shipped it to California. Soon thereafter the car was taken a to restoration shop where disassembly happened and work started. After a year or so, the shop went out of business and the disassembled car was taken to another shop. If it was not taken apart yet, the 2nd shop took it apart so EVERYTHING was disassembled. At least they did a decent job of bagging and tagging items. Unfortunately, this shop also failed and the owner pulled the car/parts out and delivered it to garage he had access to. A few years pass and the owner decides this is more of hassle than he wants to continue with. An advertisement was placed in the cars for sale area of the CLC forum and I see a fairly complete ’55 Eldorado for reasonable money. Link to ad below:
http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=144182.msg355537#msg355537
After reviewing the images, several emails and phone calls, I decide to fly to CA and assess the car and photograph everything for inventory and completeness. I bought my 58 Eldorado Brougham disassembled and swore I would not do that again... Once in Pismo Beach, CA, 2 days were spent reviewing and photographing the car and parts. I determined I would make a play for the car and a deal was reached. This was October of 2017.
In January 2018, I drove from metro Detroit to Eau Claire, WI to pick up Rick Payton for a car retrieving adventure. We loaded Tom Hibler’s ’65 Malibu into my trailer for transport to Oklahoma City where we would drop the car and pick-up Tom for the ride out to Pismo Beach. The 3 of us had to build the car up enough so it was able to be loaded into my enclosed trailer, that took 3 days. We brought with us a complete front end suspension and rear end off one of Rick’s parts cars so we would not have to put all the suspension back together from my car, just drag the complete unit under the frame and install. It worked out well.
A partially assembled car was pulled from the garage and loaded into my trailer for the trip back to MI via Oklahoma City. Dropped Rick in AZ as he was staying for vacation in Scottsdale, so Tom and I continued on and I left Tom in Oklahoma City where we loaded his Malibu into his trailer for his return trip to Austin, TX. I drove alone back to MI.
The car sat in the trailer for several months and was decided to have Rick do the body on the car while he was doing another ’55 Eldo for himself. The trailer was pulled to Eau Claire again and the car dropped at his shop.
After 2 years, the car is making progress as the body is almost complete. Interior is complete and ready to install. Powertrain is done awaiting marriage to the frame. That brings us to the current state. Deadline is July of this year to start the sorting process as I have a date in late September where I want use the car.
Enjoy the photos, and updates as we finish the car.
1st group of photos is the car at purchase, and the adventure there to get it.
David
Putting the car together enough for it to roll and getting it to MI.
The start of restoration, the disassembled rear end was taken to a shop to inspect and reassemble.
The Gear shop was unable to take care of the leaf spring assembly so after they powercoated the part, I found the bag of parts which held the leaf springs together. I restored them, made a hold and drive bolt, and built up the springs.
The thermostat housing had deep pitting, so decided to epoxy the clamping surface for a better seal. Kitchen oven was used to speed up the drying, smelled bad and Becky was not happy. I made a jig to mount the housing to so I could spin it in the drill press and sand it smooth. Non centered axis so sanding was a little tricky and I did manage to whack my fingers a few times. It stimulated the profanity center of the brain real well.
I bought a new A/C Delco 160 degree thermostat, installed to the pump and painted. Ready to mount on the engine.
Steering gear was sent to Laar's Corporation for a rebuild. One of issues when buying a car already disassembled is you don't know the condition of the car, parts, operation of it. I did not know if it needed rebuilding or not, but I knew my 58 Brougham unit leaked bad when I put the car back together and removing it after the car was built was a pain, so sent the box in for rebuild. Good thing as it needed some attention. It is mounted now on the frame.
Engine photos. The engine was rebuilt by a shop in Chippewa Falls, WI and it as not been fired yet. The engine is correct to the car as the engine number and VIN number match the build sheet. The 311th Eldorado engine manufactured.
More engine shots. Engine & transmission mounts were re-vulcanized by Steele Rubber and installed. Water pump installed. As it turned out, many of the engine parts had to be replaced as the engine had major work done prior to my rebuild. Heads were cracked and welded, block had to be bored 0.060 because it had already been opened up to 0.030. Crank was ground 0.010. That meant the piston kit purchased from Egge had to be reordered for a 0.060 and by the time we figured it out a restocking fee kicked in. Finding uncracked heads turned out to troublesome, but Ken Karer ended up having a nice set and those were used.
Transmission has been rebuilt and ready to be reunited with the engine. I hope to do this next week when I am in WI. This is 95th Eldorado transmission produced, tag is 1095 and the counting starts at 1000.
More transmission photos. Lou Commisso had some '55 factory body drop photos that confirmed the transmission was not painted as there was no evidence of any paint traces on mine, so no Cadillac blue for it.
Mainshaft in the transmission had a worn planetary and luckily Rick had a spare good one to use in the rebuild.
An amazing series of circumstances and now a labor of love. SO sad to hear yet another narrative about a "rebuilding shop" that has the capacity to take a car apart, but then fails to reassemble it, goes "out of business" and leaves "others" to clean up an expensive and extraordinary mess. This happens far too often-- so glad to know that you're saving this one, for it's now in competent hands, will be restored, enjoyed, and provide many more years of significant life. Keep the narrative and picture going. Fascinating in so many ways, James
Well said James. My thoughts exactly. Keep up the good work David and do keep us posted. Clay/Lexi
How about some body photos. When purchased, it was described as being almost complete. In fact the doors, hood, decklid had been worked, but not as well as they should have, and those were corrected and now ready for fitting and finish. The RH quarter panel had been hand fabricated as the original had been damaged badly. When the mud was removed and behind the door, Rick described it as looking like a James Bond DB5 wheel extending cutter had ran down the side of the car as there were 2 long gashes which had been poorly repaired. There was enough out of shape surface on the contours that to make look like a correct panel would be easier to just cut in a correct panel, and that was what we did. Our chosen car to cut was recently placed outside at Rick's shop. A huge snow and ice storm happened and a great big chunk of ice/snow slid off the shop roof right on to the back of the donor car ruining the rear of the car so another donor car had to be used. Overall, for a convertible, the floors were not to bad but still some serious repair in the normal spots is required. Rockers, floors, braces, trunk in the rear either have been fixed or in the process of getting repaired.
The body will be placed on the rotisserie soon to finish the work and get the underbody painted, jambs shot, and prepped for marriage to the frame again.
What a story! Thanks for taking the time to pubish it. It's a shame that digital cameras were not yet born when I did mine. The story was published here, but with only a few scaned paper pictures.
Good luck!
The steering column is under restoration now. I have been doing Rick's and mine at the same time. Parts have been cleaned and the black stuff blasted and painted. The interior color paint has not been completed and that what's stopping the final assembly. I had some parts scanned and printed and can offer those now. The horn terminal (5684071 horn contact) and insulator (265136 Horn Contact Bushing) were made and used on my car and the new terminal on Rick's. The scan/print shop managed to loose the original terminal so they made me an extra to replace it.
More steering column photos.
More steering column photos. There NOS brake switches on both panels, polished brake pedal closeouts w/new seals on Rick's column.
More Steering Column photos, I assembled most of the column today. I spent the previous week at Rick's place and he painted my column the correct brown for my tan Eldorado column. My do it twice motto was in effect today as I had to install the shift arm bushing twice as I forgot to put the close out cap on first and the pressed in pin for the neutral safety switch was installed on the wrong side of the arm. Getting all the parts in the right order is a challenge and several attempts to get the sequence sorted was needed. A thing to do is to stress to the chromer to NOT plate the internal threads of the end keeper as that is really hard to clean out and that big nut rotates on the housing when the gears are shifted, so if it binds, no shift movement.
The previous week was spent in Chippewa Falls at Rick's place and a lot was accomplished on both cars. Rick's car had the internal body bracing removed and it was transfered to my body. Rick's finished convertible top frame was assembled using mine as a reference. The RH quarter panel was roughed into place and the internal body bracing was installed to my body. Once braced, the body was lifted off the frame and placed on the rotisserie. The frame was moved and I married the engine and transmission back on the frame and ran the brake and fuel lines. The fuel line has be done again as it must be a Fleetwood version as the aft portion is to long. All the lines were ordered 10 years ago by the previous owner, so now I've ordered another fuel line. Rick had templates made to mark that frame and that was done.
more body photos.
More chassis shots.
That build takes some effort and hours. Huge undertaking.
Well done 💪🏼
Fog lamps and fender extensions. There are a many parts making up the fog lamps and fender extensions and my lamps had rust issues. The fender extensions were solid and required chrome work. The lamp housing base required the attachment hole to be repaired, and painted. The extensions have separate stainless strips which were polished. Those are held w/rivets which I could not locate and would not have the tooling to set/peen them anyway. I did find some small shoulder screws which did the trick and almost look like the rivet head, expensive though. New wire harness, lamps, lens and the rubber sealing panels that I have yet to figure out how they go. If anyone has successfully installed these, let me know how they install. The originals were to far gone to tell anything.
Fog Lamp and fender extension photos.
Fog Lamp assembly photos. The lamp sockets required the old wire harness ends to be removed and new harness to be fed through the reflector, into the socket, and new lamp contact ends be soldered on the harness. The new harness came with the contact ends. The complete wire harness set came with the car and it is a very good quality product.
End of fog lamps. I installed the lens and cut the felt wicks and placed at the bottom of the lens. These are ready to bolt to the bumper assembly. Lamps tested and working on the bench.
It is nice to see shinny, finished parts.
Very nice work. The '55 fog lamp assembly is obviously more complex than the '56 one.
It seems that you could install the 1044 bulbs without damaging them. For their installation on my own cars, I did a tool pushing all 3 pins together, facilitating the installation.
Nice job on those Fog Lights. They are gorgeous! Clay/Lexi
Time for some interior photos. The original interior was long gone when I acquired the car. A sixties white vinyl tuck & roll with musical embroidery was made. The rear seat frames were gone and made with wood and foam. I had a hard time finding convertible rear seat frames and ended up getting an incorrect base from a vendor. He made good on it and sent the correct one, but after my trimmer had spend time blasting, painting and foaming the frame, so I ended up eating some cost on that screwup. I bought an extra set of door trim panels as I needed the arm rest features and the waffle trim on the bottom was a little better than the ones on my set.
All the parts were blasted, painted with POR-15 and some area required some metal patching, front seat sides, rear quarter trim had to be welded with replacement steel.
6 Hides were used to do the complete interior. Sherwin Williams color Totally Tan (SW 6115) was the color used to match the dye to. Finding the hardware and seat buttons took some time. '62 or '63 Chevrolet Impala interior buttons were purchased and polished as they matched the correct Eldorado buttons used. I found an original hard boot striker, had it scanned, and then recreated them using a foundry in Chippewa Falls, they came out great and I will have 4 cars sets left over to sell on. These mount on the top of the rear seat on either side and that is where the hardboot latches secure to. I've not installed those yet as I want to get the interior in the car to ensure they align correctly.
More interior photos.
More photos.
More photos.
More photos.
David, you have now a super documentation at what was done. I regret that I could not do the same when I restored my '56 Biarritz as the digital cameras were not yet on the market.
Hard boot striker that goes on top of the rear seat. P/N 4647333. This is my reproduction one.
I added the rear quarter trim panels as I forgot to include them above.
Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on January 23, 2021, 12:19:27 PM
David, you have now a super documentation at what was done. I regret that I could not do the same when I restored my '56 Biarritz as the digital cameras were not yet on the market.
Your are correct Roger and the process of documenting it here is forcing me to organize a couple of thousand photos so I can find what I'm looking for.
The underside of the body is getting finished. When the modern interior was installed, they used about 30 nails to hold the carpet to the floor, what a bunch of hacks.
The convertible top was taken apart and the chrome parts redone. I did not take photos yet of the finished chrome work, but I will and they are nice. I will put it back together when I go back for the Easter holiday weekend.
Some years ago, Mike Rizzuto was selling a set to assemble the folding top. Could you buy a set there or did you turn the bolts yourself?
Roger,
I bought a top kit from John Krantz. John makes the top kits and the side door window glass frames that always seem to rust out. He has many years available and I can get them to resell.
Very complete kit with new chromed bolts and rivets. I had my bolts re-chromed anyway, but will have spares now from the unused ones in the kit.
A few more body photos.
Thanks for the info about the top kits and side glass frames!
Nice work!
I will be interested how you do with matching the paint with modern formulas....I have to figure that one out too.
Cheers,Pat MacPhail
Pat,
The paint is bought and awaiting the body. There is a really good paint store where the car is being done and they were able to match the original color. It was kind of hard as the car was repainted in what I believe was the 58 copper. On the heater blister we found a good remnant of the original which was a lighter copper. This will be a base coat, clear coat paint job now since lacquer is no longer available.
When I find the photo of the paint code, I will post here. I found the spray out, but will have to get a photo of the formula next time I am there.
David
Blasting the body floor, creating more welding opportunities, but now it is upwards and onwards...
Looks like the project is moving right along.
Thanks for the info on the paint..I have seen a few restored cars where the paint appears to be quite a bit darker.
Cheers,Pat
The turn signal switch had some wires where the casing was broken. I did not want to just wrap it w/electrical tape as though I it would not stay and hard to get at. I experimented with taking some shrink wrap and cutting it so it would go around the wire, then I super glued the wrap back together. Applied the heat and it did shrink up. The repair worked, but very hard to keep the wrap in place while gluing and getting your fingers released and not pulling everything apart again. I made it work and deemed it good enough as there is no stress on this area. No tiny ball bearings lost, contact points cleaned. When attempting to reassemble, the chrome had built up the holes, so I had to get a tap and chase the threads, then it went together.
The column is ready now to mount. The shift and turn arms are out getting the knobs molded at the steering wheel restoration shop, so this is really close to installing, the body just has to get done.
I actually LOLd when you said Creating new welding opportunities! Yeah, I saw plenty in the photos too. But then you DID expect that I am sure. Once you patch it up and smooth the welds, some primer / surfacer, it'll be good as gold.
I saw the way you had to repair the wheel well liner edges. I had to hand form repair strips similarly on my 57 TBird, in the trunk area. Non-reproduced parts, so... One does what they need to do. Proper prep under there, and primer/surfacer, and no one will ever spot it, unless they knew it was there.
Single layer inner and outer rockers? With the perimeter frame, I'm guessing they are. They are on my TBird. My 64 Caddy though, they are multi layer thick, like my 67 Camaro rockers are. The Camaro is unibody from the cowl back, and the Caddy has the X frame with no side rails. I'm guessing the frame is the reason the Caddy was built with that type of rocker panel.
Nice work to date! You guys are much faster than I am!
Quote from: 2manycars on March 30, 2021, 01:57:08 PM
The Camaro is unibody from the cowl back, and the Caddy has the X frame with no side rails.
The "X" frame on Cadillac models came for 1957. 1955/56 and prior models had side rails plus X brace; thicker on convertible (the X brace).
The underbody has been painted the red oxide primer color and the dash panel has gotten the color on it. It is almost ready to come off the rotisserie and go back to the frame. I installed the brake hardware in the rear hubs and was going to do the fronts, but had trouble getting the front wheel bearings. I ended up buying from Rock Auto, but they will arrive after I have left this week. The flex tubing has been added over the take down pipes.
Nice!
Before I put my body on the frame, I assembled the accessories on the firewall; I found this way easier than doing the assembly when the engine is on the way.
Attempting to get the last of the known items finished so assembly can begin. The power steering pump and oil filter canister have been gone through, LH exhaust manifold has been sent out for a coating and returned; we will see if if lives up to the claims. There are other items, but those will be separate posts.
More steering pump photos. Earlier I got focused on completing the task over doing a good job of document the clean up and prep for assembly. I bought a big ultrasonic parts cleaner the steering pump was the first thing tried and it worked pretty good. Time will tell if it was a good tool to have. It did do a decent job of breaking the oil/crud and paint off the pump parts.
LH Exhaust manifold awaiting new pipe studs.
4/28/21 RH exhaust manifold coated.
Cleaning tools are never a bad investment!
Some dash parts were painted last week.
This weekend I put the I/P cluster together. Last year I scored a NOS temp gauge. Mine had been soaked with water somehow and rusted and corroded. I had soaked in vinegar and oiled which allowed it to work and my plan was to use it until the one ebay became available. It is now mounted. I bought some anti static spray for the lens to hopefully not get so much dust inside the unit. Parts are starting to look a lot better. I used windshield butyl to replace the stuff which isolated the glass lens from the housing. Rolled it down to thin it out and placed in the spots where it was originally.
More photos of the cluster assembly. I polished the 3 lens on the front and used dabs of black RTV to hold them in place, that was tedious. I painted the inside of the re-chromed housing to match the painted areas of the originals. Taking photos when disassembling sure makes it easier to get right when putting back together years later.
The LH dash trim got its grooves painted as well.
Nice dash assembly! I suppose it was rechromed. Good idea with the windshield butyl!
Tires and wheels mounted by a mobile tire service in Chippewa. Valley Wire Wheel did the wheels and they are a work of art.
Doors were painted on the inside and few other odds and ends. Seals will be mounted and the doors fitted to the body.
Misc. shots of front brake work. Bearings were a pain to install, and I did a oil seal backwards and had to replace and it turned out the powercoater coated the inner part of the spindle where the inner bearing race has to work, so another teardown to remove the coating....3 days to complete the front brakes, bearings buildup. Body was mounted and torqued to the frame, adjustments likely. We had a map and labeled shims so those were positioned back to their home spots. Enough work was done to the body that some of those will not be correct now, but have to get the rest installed to tell. Installed the prop shaft and the park brake cable and linkage.
Installed the valve covers & coated exhaust manifolds so it looks better.
I did not make the progress this trip I wanted, be back over the 4th.
Steering wheel was returned after restoration, the knobs on the column as well, turned out great. These are molded in color like the original and the OE color was determined after he got into it. the texture is also in the grips. Love it.
The 2 Eldorado's switched places yesterday and now my car is moving back to the body/paint shop. 1st time outside in a while and I wish I was there to see the color in the daylight. That copper and Rick's Pacific Coral will be stunning colors when finished.
PROGRESS! Looking very sturdy, and yes, loved! (Is that the power steering pump on the driver's side of engine? Not familiar with that shape) --congrats!!! James
No, it's the Hydrovac system! (for the brakes)
Thanks ROger... so '56 Cadillac changed to a vacuum intake manifold brake booster. James
I would say another system. The Hydrovac is also using intake manifold vacuum. With that system, the master cylinder can be in a different position; on 54-55, it is on the frame rail, almost under the driver's feet.
Very nice work and thanks for posting all the details! Chuck
I have spent the last 2 weeks in WI working on the car and will return home this weekend. The front end is coming along and the rest of the body will be ready for paint in approximatey 3 weeks. More photos will be added when I get home, but a few of today's work.
Two & half weeks were spent working on the car and it came a long way. Ready to start for the first time, but we simply ran out of time, so this week it will likely happen without me there...maybe that is best.
Underbody is almost complete. Exhaust is test fitted and close to being done. All hoses, linkage completed. Fuel tank is awaiting some rubber to make isolating strips or it would have been mounted..
Battery straps mounted, the strap had a hole in the middle of the cable and I found the hole in the frame (under the battery tray) where it secures.
More underbody.
Front of dash work, heater cores installed and vent doors. Wiper transmissions and motor installed and body harness routed through dash into engine compartment and wiring connected to engine.
Engine compartment very complete.
More photos
Hood blanket glued on and inner fenders painted.
So glad to see the car getting to the point it has. Loved seeing those dual carbs on the motor. I'm glad you bought the car from me and are finishing it. Few months after you purchased the car, my best friend, who was going to help me finish it, passed away from his battle with brain cancer. We both were almost retired at that point from the Army and wanted to do this project together, but God had other plans for him. Again, I'm so happy that you are finishing it and giving it the respect that it deserves.
Col. Alex Carapeti, (Ret)
Great job ! Love the details . Gold valve covers and air cleaner seem to be the correct color for a 57 Eldo I'm restoring . Could you provide paint formula info ? ... Thanks , Paul Tesone CLC #6876
David,
Simply spectacular.....
Thanks Ralph and Paul. I will check and see if I can get the mix formula for the gold.
Talking to Rick today, engine start is supposed to happen tomorrow afternoon and paint on Friday if successful. I agree with the plan to run the engine in while you can get at it kind of easy. The front end sheet metal will be be final installed for paint, so fitted and gapped and done.
Another week was spend messing with the car and still no paint. It has run, but I was not there and did not take the time to start again just for me to see it, it can wait until next time.
Fuel tank was installed, the rubber splash shield were figured out and attached to the fenders. Brackets were painted. I still don't know where a couple of the brackets go. There are 2 90 degree one and one heavy/thick one about 2.5" long w/a offset hole for a 3/8" bolt.
Installed the hood with my hinge and there were issues attempting getting it to fit. Once down and raising, the left hand side got bound and bent the linkage....bad day. The next day, put on a different hinge and started over, this time we got a decent fit to the cowl. Hood got the latch and and hardware installed.
Fenders were put on and those did not line to bad, LH one has to have some adjustment where it meets the rocker, but it could be prepped and painted this week now.
Put the lower splash shield on and fitted the horns.
More photos.
If anyone can confirm where the support bracket go, please post here. I found a reference in photos saying the long one have the hood bumper going through them. No idea on the small "L-Brackets" though one looks like the lower antenna support.
I did not take a photo of the thick small rectangular bracket with a off center hole for a 3/8" bolt.
The supports brackets are under the bumper pad for the hood, see pictures. The small ones may be for the heater/vent fans, but I'm not sure.
As I had to go to my store room this morning I took the camera with me...My car is a '56, '55 ones have some identical parts but not too many.
Edit: the small brackets are not for the fan motors according to pictures I have from this location.
Thanks for the photos Roger.
Hello David,
Here are some detail shots of the supports. The small angle brackets join the inner fender to the outer fender right by the wheel opening...this is a pick from my 56 but I believe it is the same for 55.
The detail shots of the support brackets is from my 55 Eldo.
Cheers,Pat
Thanks for the photos Pat.
The previous owner must have relocated my horn as when I was looking for where the bolt pattern matched up, up top on the radiator support is where I found the holes. Your trumpet is mounted low and looks to have a tie-in bracket to the lower standard horn. I've not seen a bracket that looks like that yet, so hopefully it turns up.
Hi David,
That item that looks like a tie in bracket is actually a split in the splash pan and the wire for the standard horn..so no need to conduct a search .
Cheers,Pat
I'm attaching a picture from my third horn. It came that way for about 30 years ago; I don't know if this is the right horn. 1955 may have a different one.
The car is in the paint booth...awaiting info it has color. I am heading to WI on Tuesday for the week, can't wait.
Hard boot got painted last week.
Looks great David !!
That Copper is going to look great on the car !!
Mike
I second that!! That's a great looking color.
David, did you get your parts for that yet? And if so, did they arrive intact?
Thanks, Rick
Yes, Rick, the parts arrived at Rick Payton's place. I will get to see them in a couple of days as I am headed there on Tuesday.
Rick Cook, the splash shields look nice, getting straitened and painted now.
Car is painted! Rick's and mine switched places in the building now.
Assembled the rear bumper. Hope it fits! I have to wait for the car to blocked/wet sanded and polished before mounting shiny bits. I was using Rick's unrestored bumper bracket as a guide to assemble mine.
Now the fun can begin with the installation of the stored parts!
Hi David - we need some updated pictures . ....We're you ever able to find the correct formula for the gold paint you used on the valve covers & air cleaner ? If no formula , can you provide the paint name and/or supplier ? ... Thanks , Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Paul, it slipped my mind, I was in WI last week. I will ask the paint store for it.
Some car updates are coming.
Paul, I've attached the photos below of the paint info. This what we use for the Eldorado valve covers and air silencer.
A few progress shots. The car is mostly polished, at least where trim mounts and a the decklid parts and rear end panel pieces were installed. The lock mechanism and trim cover needed cleaned and that was done and installed. Decklid lamp installed. The lighting is poor where the car is parked in the garage.
Most of the time was spent finding the parts and learning how to route the stuff behind the I/P. Thank goodness Rick has a parts car out back to get the pieces, of course taking them off is big job, but at least you can understand how it is supposed to go.
The I/P was built up and Rick discovered we had not painted the underside of the dash the same color as the column and top pad, so it was taken apart again, and the underside painted. Then re-assembled and readied to be installed.
For fun, we temporarily put the dash pad in place to see what it looks like.
The bowden cable on the heater swhich goes from the control lever to the Ranco valve is damaged and won't maintain a straight line and has to be replaced and access to that after the dash is in place is much more difficult to get at, but we decided to proceed and not delay the ability to move the car around. It as a date at a top shop in the not to distant future and the ability to steer it is important.
Top frame was put in place.
Thank you David - much appreciated . I'll let you know how things work out. .... Paul Tesone CLC #6876
I brought the front dust shields back with me to install the rubber around the edge and that was done for both cars today I forgot to get the rubber flaps that go below, but that will be done next trip and the the parts get installed to the fenders.
I brought back the heater blower units with me to clean up and get ready to install. One unit has a bent fan and motor that does not turn freely. I found a good blower unit on eBay for $50 and cleaned that one up using the blower housing from my original. Both units came out good and test fine, ready to mount in the car.
Inbeween Christmas and New Years, I am taking my son to assist me and we will work on the car and hopefully get to the point of installing these.
David,
You're doing a beautiful job. This may be only one I've seen in this livery which is shown only once in one of the '55 mailers. Stunning !
Rick had a local windshield installer show up and the glass is in.
He can take it out again: the upper molding must be installed into the rubber profile before; then the windshield can be installed on the car!
Great!...The saying while working the car has become "it's no fun if you don't do it twice"
Thanks for pointing that out Roger.
This kind of shit drives me nuts.
I understand the pain!
This detail is described in the '54 shop manual; strange that Rick was not aware of this "detail".
Rick did know, he forgot to tell the installers and left them to do their work. Oh well, now to find the molding...
Rick was able to get the molding installed in the car...kinda tough to get in, but he and his assistant were successful. The crew that installed it sealed it real well, so to get it out would have destroyed the weatherstrip seal.
Next week when I am there, we should be able to knock out a lot of stuff.
You are lucky! It was certainly not easy, but with a fresh rubber seal still pliable, Rich and his assistant managed to do it.
This week my son and I have been working on the car and are finally starting to install some jewelry. Fuel tank pipe and hoses installed and connected. Brakes were filled, bled and shoes adjusted, this was a long day and I still have a suspect joint at the master where a leak is appearing. The new tires and wheels were installed. Temperary oil pressure gauge line removed and the oil filter line installed. Temporary fuel line removed and main fuel tank line reconnected. Wiper motor cable was installed and connected to motor. A spring was dropped into the heater hose that was kinking on the sharp bend from the Ranco valve so that is soothed out. Rear crown moldings, LH side belt trim and side trim installed.
Tomorrow is the last day and there is still plenty to do.
Pretty parts.
Today was a huge push for parts install. Rear lamps, moldings, trunk lining, sound deadener in doors, windshield moldings, hub caps, hood trim.
More shots from today.
Superb! Did you used ribbed molding I sold to you or did you find another solution?
Roger, I ended up with several parts and I can't remember now which ones were used....I think the rears were mine, but not sure.
Rick as been busy and installed the cluster, (at least temporarily) and the side glass, it has been a struggle. The car goes to the top shop on Monday to get the convertible top installed. My Son and I will make a trip there the 1st week of March and complete the exterior items on the car. The goal is bring it back with me to MI (in a trailer) to finish the car. The GN will be here before I know it.
Rick stopped by the top shop and sent this photo, progress is being made. I will be there the following week for a weeks worth of assembly with the goal of bringing it back with me to complete.
When i got to WI last week, the car was still at the top shop. On Monday it was completed and arrangements were made to flatbed it back to the shop. The car was pushed onto the lift. The rear end panel seal I installed was upside down, that was corrected. The clips were missing so I used the small office supply paper clamps with the wire handles and after installation, the wire handles were removed, it worked out nice.
All the bumper end rubber is for the Standard cars as I could not find material or repo parts for the Eldorado version. They seemed to fit well enough and I wanted support for the exhaust pipes through the bumper.
The front bumper assembly was started.
Front Bumper Assembly
Front Bumper Assembly and headlamp parts.
More front end work. The headlamp adjuster nuts and screws were damaged and missing, so only one lamp was installed. Rear bumper installed. Other work was done, but no photos. Fuel was added to the tank and no leaks below, but there were some on top when we started the car. Those were addressed. The car needs timed and tuned and does not run well yet, so this my next thing.
The progress was enough to determine it was time to bring home for completion, so everything was gathered and packed for the ride back to Michigan. When assessing for my trailer, it is awful tight and now it matters if it makes contact with the car, so Rick's local hauler was available to assist in loading the car and I called an audible to have him bring the car to MI and I would take everything else. Everything but the car was in my rig and trailer and the car came the next day.
Derek (transporter) my wife & I got the car unloaded and maneuvered into the garage. That was hard work pushing and pulling that heavy girl around getting into the garage.
Then next chapter of assembly is about to start.
In a word, spectacular!
Nice!
At the bottom of the rear bumper end seals, you'll have to add a steel support for the exhaust tubes. Without that, during the dilatation of the exhaust system during driving, you may have bad surprises because the tubes will stick on the rubber. I omitted them when I restored my '56 de Ville; after a while, both mufflers were crushed a bit.
Amazing work David !
Great job, attention to every detail....what your doing isn't easy....
I was a kid in high school 50 odd years ago and me & a buddy of mine walked thru a "Classic Car" dealership and a copper 1955 Eldorado caught my eye.....The color, the styling, just the sheer presence of the car.....I was hooked on Cadillac that very second....decades later I'm still hooked.....
I love watching you do what you do with one of my fondness memories !!
Mike
Doing a little bit in the garage, but it is still cold to really do much, and also lots of set backs. One was to install the gear shift lever to the column. 1st issue was I could not locate the 2 lever springs I bought, so I order one more. Next, when the spring gets here its an oh shit moment, the chrome dome that covers the arm/pin to column joint is to be installed BEFORE the knob is cast onto the arm and of course I am holding the cover in my hand. I had to walk a away for day or two. I called Dennis Crooks who did my steering wheel and knobs looking for advise on if the knob could be removed from the arm. Dennis called me back in a couple days and said "try a hair dryer to heat it up and then pull it apart and slip in the cover. If you mess it up, send it back and I will recast the knob". The fix worked and I will put the lever in tonight. Photo of fixed lever before installation.
Added: I installed the lever this afternoon.
You were lucky with the removal/installation of the gear lever's knob!
Don't forget to solder the horn's contact before you install the steering wheel...
The horn contact wire is already soldered, just not cut flush yet...incase I needed to remove it again. Now I'm far enough along that won't likely be needed.
Thanks for watching out for me. :D
David
I have been working on the car, but just not photo worthy content. A long ordeal on ordering replacement heater control cables as that is holding me up from completing the dash work. Those are the most buried parts so I have to get those installed and working before building up the rest. There should be a set of cables coming now. I have managed to sort the electrical issues so for the moment, the body harness and engine harness and attached components are working. I found a new light switch in my stash of parts and that corrected the non dimming dash lamps. Fog light switch cleaned. All gauges, dash, exterior (except license plate, wires not connected) are working. When the car is started, the temp & fuel gauge work and the oil pressure and generator lamps go out while running.
I bought the missing "Fleetwood" badge for the seat base. I polished it and painted in the etching area for the logo. The seat base still had the attachment hole so aligned the hole with the plate and used the screw point to find where to poke the hole in the leather to attach. This worked out fine.
Connected the license plate lamps. Bulb sockets were rusty and not making a ground, so soldered a wire to base and grounded it through the attachment screws. One more thing done.
I pulled it outside with it running poorly and brakes need further adjusting, but this was its first movement under its own power, just a few feet, but more will come. I will add the front shot to the Brown car thread currently going on in the general area.
Car looks great David !
It's a good feeling with the trim going back on and the car is moving under it's own power...
This is fun to watch !!
Mike
Spring is here and so is DAVID'S car... perfect timing. Happy day, James
Yesterday I was trying to get the door to fit better, it does, but to much striker drag, so not happy with that. I put on the LH center molding and used my NOS retainers. It is cool to open those parts and use them, though a little sad at the same time. Having and eating the cake syndrome I suppose.
I was going to move to the LH fender molding next and opened the bag of NOS retainers for it. However when I took the part from the protective bag from the chromer, I noticed some blemishes on it, then checked the RH one and same thing, so those have to be redone. The parts were plated by the guy Rick uses in Minnesota, so no rework on these as the hassle will be more than having my local guy do it, so next week those parts will be dropped off.
This morning I received a box from Rick that has some parts in it. A new remade lube tag that has my VIN on it, very cool. 5 seat Eldorado badges for the seat base. I restored mine 3 years ago and they were perfect cores and now I can't find them, I hate that kind of shit, and I'm sure once the car is together, they will present themselves. Out of the five pieces Rick sent, I polished 3 and used two. One had some delamitation which bugged me. The other one had some of the foil and paint missing in the colored areas. I used some flat white paint with a wood tooth pick and Bill Hirsh blue engine paint with a tooth pick and dabbed on the missing area and it looks good. that blue is almost a perfect match.
Then I figured out how to assemble the polished pieces to the leather wrapped base and clip in the badges. It took a little bit and a couple of hours of polishing the badges but it looks great.
Lube Tag.
Weekend update:
I got assistance from a GM Tech friend to try and tune the car on Saturday. After 2 hours of making little progress, a problem was uncovered. The floats in the rear carb were leaking. That stopped that project. I found out that Daytona Products is remaking that Rochester float P/N 70000199. 2 are on order.
Sound deader has been added to both doors.
More rework, the outside handles had to be removed to remove the latches which was missing the inside lock rods, what a pain just to install those rods, but done now. Make sure to have those rods on the latches when you first install.
Heater control cables arrived and the needed ones installed, no joy in that job, but allows for ducting to completed. Passenger side done.
Glove box compartment installed and door refitted with everything.
Most of the behind the dash work is getting done. Drivers ducts left, washer line, and tidying up the wire harness and vacuum hoses left.
Very entertaining read here.
Those retainers wanted to be out of the bag and installed on a car. You know that, right?
It's like letting the genie out of the bottle.
I try to use NOS parts when I can find them, I open the bag or the box carefully and install the parts and put the NOS packaging in the storage container for that car for future reference.
I will be on vacation so this is it for awhile as we fly out tonight. 4-5 hours today on the LH upper door belt trim. Today was my first attempt at installing trim material. The interior guy who made my interior sewed up the piece, but I had to install it to the metal trim. So cut foam, glue, scissors, razor blade, and trial & error to fit it and complete. I'm happy with the result. I will wait for another day to RH side.
More door trim photos.
I'm back a week from a 2 week vacation to the UK. I have a 2 Bay garage under my main 3 bay garage, so its like a walk out basement. In in the spring the approach is steep so getting cars moved around is hard due to soft ground. I've sold my Pininfarina Eldorado Brougham's and the 59 was stored in this basement garage. There is also a lift which had my Studebaker on it. The 59 EB has been sold for some time, just waiting for the ground/weather to cooperate. On Tuesday it was possible to drive the Studebaker out and up to the top floor, move the lift, and drag the 59 out and up the hill so it can be shipped. I cleaned the garage a little, repositioned the lift and yesterday I drove the 55 down and parked on the lift. It will be finished here.
General sorting of parts, still missing all kinds of stuff which is driving me nuts and prepping a few other things as I find them. The fender moldings were ready for pick up at the chrome shop so I got those on Tuesday and installed over the next 2 days. Used the NOS retainers, it is nice to work with quality parts. Two different packages of parts, one older than the other. In the older version, there was no rubber insulator on the washered nuts, like the pull-off part. The newer package had the same nuts with a rubber insulator attached, same part numbers on both packages.
More photos, trim and car move to lower shop.
David, the car is really looking good !!
Of all the 1950s Eldorados'.... I like the 1955 example the best...
It's a combination of both understated and flashy....
Mike
Quote from: Mike Baillargeon #15848 on May 22, 2022, 02:48:28 PM
David, the car is really looking good !!
Of all the 1950s Eldorados'.... I like the 1955 example the best...
It's a combination of both understated and flashy....
Mike
Thanks Mike, I'm starting to like it as well.
Today the seat/window harness was installed, at least roughly. The seat frame was placed and motors tested, it has to come out to get some paint and lube to the guide tracks. Some insulation mating was placed in front floor and the jute laid out.
I installed the shields and strikers to the top of the rear seat. These are where the hard boot latches clamp onto when it is installed. Minor thing, but knocking out some little items.
I made up several extra sets of these impossible to find parts if anyone needs them.
The rest of the floor got covered in the rubber mat insulator and the carpet is being test fit.
Quote from: David King (kz78hy) on May 26, 2022, 08:52:19 PM
I installed the shields and strikers to the top of the rear seat. These are where the hard boot latches clamp onto when it is installed.
I made up several extra sets of these impossible to find parts if anyone needs them.
You will certainly sell your extra sets!
Today's work was installing the A-Pillar weatherstrip, inner belt seal in the upper door trim, finished the behind the dash stuff and finished the steering column & steering wheel w/horn ring. Horn actually works and sounds great with all 3 being freshly done.
That had to be so cool hearing those horns go off for the first time in a long time!!
Mike
Long day without much to show. Installed the dome light on the convertible top bow. Pulled the brake pedal and installed the closeout grommet for the carpet and started fitting that. The exhaust system was clamped up, took way longer than expected and still not really happy with the result, but it is as good as it can be. Some windshield header items installed, sun visors, and end receptacles.
The new heat ducts came today and transferred the metal bits from the originals over to the new ones, one side only. I think they will work fine.
Other side of ducts complete. Installed those parts to the car, what a fiddley ordeal that was. Nothing lays the way it is supposed to and then the hole ends up being stripped. This is supposed to be fun.
More photos and doing the front seat track covers. I bought used ones and refreshed with new carpet. I had to make a RH cover retainer bracket. It is close and should be able to bent to suit when the time comes to install to the seat assembly.
More photos of the seat track covers and brackets.
There was a mad push to complete for the GN, but alas, no glory. There was an engine noise in the valve train that was masked by no exhaust and once the exhaust was completed, the noise was bad. After an initial scare, valve cover removed and found a short push rod on #8 exhaust valve. Ordered another push rod and installed and no more noise. Carbs need to be dialed in as it runs poorly. Most of the under hood stuff was completed less stickers.
The 55 and 58 had to swap places since the EB needed an oil change and I was finally going to use the lift to make this better. While the cars were rearranged, Ben (my son) and I cleaned off the blue protective film on the tires while the car was parked in the yard where they get washed. 1st time in the yard.
The 58 Brougham will make another trip to a GN and bar will be open. Stop by to swap lies and have some fun.
So I spent about 45 mintues skimming the thread on this. You must be exasperated and excited at the same time? Mucho Kudos for sticking in there and still doing the thread!
No picture this time, but soon there will be more. I have not posted in a year as I had to take a break from the car. There were nothing but issues and going backwards that got me so frustrated and upset I could not look at it. There was an oil & coolant leak at the back of engine, radio antenna, and many other items that should not be a problem, but were. Yesterday I stopped whining and got some help to assist in sorting out some of the items and will once again work to complete the car, GN Gettysburg bound. Oil issues have turned out leaking valve covers at the back base and that is corrected, also a leak at the rear of the oil pan, so that has to be removed and resealed. The major one now is the freeze plugs/water jacket plugs are weeping and have to be replaced on the sides of the block, they were new ones that must not be sealed when installed. After I get back from the GN in Albuquerque, the engine repairs will start.
Have a fun trip, and get energized to get back to your car.
Ditto Carl's comment. Sometimes a change is as good as a rest. Looks like you have had both, and can now resume your restoration work. Has happened to most if not all of us, me included. Clay/Lexi
Going to the Grand National was what I needed. Rick's 55 Eldo (the one that mine was built along side with) was there finished. It was marvelous. It also took Senior Crown, Peoples Choice, and Best of Show. I think my car is stronger than his, but only details that no one would ever know unless you watched the whole process side by side.
Time to get busy.
With the help of expert mechanic, yesterday (10 hours) we attempted to repair 2 of the major issues, leaking oil pan gasket and freeze plugs. Sorry to say, 2 of the 6 plugs replaced are still slightly weeping. Might try some leak sealer. this is greatly better than before, but not perfect. Of course it is on the LH side where the steering box and exhaust take down pipe has to be removed to get access.
Found additional leaks, new oil sending unit is leaking out of the crimped housing and that could be where oil is running down the back of the engine. New oil pan gasket looks dry after a second tightening at the rear. Fuel pump is leaking oil through the pump lever shaft opening...so it will have to come off and figure out a way to seal the shaft openings.
Water pump outlet that splits the out lines to the transmission is leaking at the hose. Stupid wire hose clamp will not compress any tighter, so a band clamp might have to be used. That is hard area to access.
Car beat us again. Ordering fuel pump gaskets and a new sending unit and will try again once the parts arrive.
Bad luck. Why did not use brass plugs?
I agree with Roger. Brass is better.
Plus, with all the pounding that can be seen on the replaced ones, it is no wonder they are leaking. All it takes to seat them is for one swift "well-placed" dent in the centre to deform these to sufficiently seal. What you have to do is, hit the centre once, thereby deforming the outer diameter to press hard against the hole side. Hitting multiple times all over the place is only leading for inaccurate distortion.
When I fit these, I use a small amount of Loctite sealer to assist in the sealing. Never had one leak.
Bruce. >:D
Thanks guys for the tips. These plugs are what I found, I did not locate brass ones. There was a light coating of Permatex applied to the plugs and block prior to insertion. As for hitting, since the engine is in the car, limited distance to get a hammer on it and only a couple have direct access so it is difficult to seat them like you would out of the car.
When I find access problems, I find a way of using an extender, like a Socket extention, and try and bring the hitting end out to somewhere more easily struck so I don't hurt myself, or other parts.
Bruce. >:D
If you absolutely can't knock in a brass plug, these will work.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE6004002?impressionRank=9
Get the right size and your in business.
Mike
Quote from: Mike Baillargeon #15848 on July 18, 2023, 07:32:39 AMIf you absolutely can't knock in a brass plug, these will work.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE6004002?impressionRank=9
Get the right size and your in business.
Mike
Thanks Mike, I've used these in the past for an emergency. It was a fail in the head as the plug could not be fully seated and blew out...2 different times.
We will get this fixed w/either the brass or redoing the steel ones.
Yesterday was a full day on the car. Oil sender replaced, fuel pump, radiator removed and reinstalled. Fuel pump pivot shaft was removed & inspected. A very slight bend to it, just a few thousands. Noticed the fuel pump housing was warped a little down at the lower end. the pull off gasket had good witness marks on the upper portion, but faded out down low and oil was getting past it. We used some special loctite stuff I had left over from rebuilding leveling valve which lock the parts and can provide slight filling of any gaps, this was use on the ends of the pivot shaft. A little RTV on the new pump gasket. It was dry during test.
The coolant fittings out of the water pump showed slight weeping so that was addressed. Had to remove the radiator for that.
There is still oil coming out the rear of the engine, not terrible, but enough not to live with it. Going to replace the pan gasket again with a different gasket (going to use Best vs. Felpro) and also do the rear main seal while we are in there.
One success was to find and fix the A/C leak in the 58 Eldo Brougham and get that charged and working after several years of not working. I hope this lasts a while.
2 months later and another attempt at the leaking oil. Yesterday my friend and I replaced the pan and rear main seals. The seals in place did not present with an obvious issue. The seal to grooves in the block and cap were tight, no room for shim/gasket material. I bought both of the seals discussed in a thread in the Technical page to pick the one we thought would work best. The seal removed looked to be the Best brand version.
We inspecting the seals we noticed the Best version did not match up well to itself where it meets. There was an out of round condition and joint between the them was not molded with a perfect fit or matching surface, these had void in it.
The Felpro one was round and both halves matched together much better, so it was decided to use it.
The seal was slightly clocked in the groove to have one end extend ~3/16" to mate up the cap halve.
Once it was back together and tested, it was dry for the warmup run. Fingers crossed this finally killed my oil leaking issue. No coolant leak either, but the brake master is leaking, so it has to come off, again. At least this is not as hard and the other issues.
More photos of the rear main seal replacement.
more photos.
Brake master was pulled off around Christmas time. Broke the mounting foot attempting to remove the head cap. Bought a new unit from Caddy Caddy and head cap is 1/4" and mine is the 5/16", so I had to swap the head caps. No wrenches big enough so I bought new big wrenches and sockets. I managed to lose the clevis pin that connects the brake pedal arm to the master cylinder clevis, so I order a pin and washers from Fastenal, should be here tomorrow.
So, brakes are almost reinstalled and photos next time I post. I'm getting back into the garage to get this beast finished.