Parking lamp problem-'66 Eldorado

[Greg McDonnell]

Guys,

I need your help!  I cannot, for the life of me, figure out what is the problem with my front parking lamps on my '66 Eldorado.  The turn signals work fine as do the cornering lamps.  The headlights also work with no problem.  I checked the fuse chart in the shop manual and it appears the parking lamps are on the same fuse (15 amp) with the headlights so it can't be the fuse.  Could it possibly be the headlight switch not working in the parking lamp position?  Oddly, when I pull the headlight switch knob out to the parking lamp position, the tail lamps and the license tag lamps work properly.  Knowing it probably wasn't the cause of the problem, I changed the bulb in one of the parking lamps and that didn't get things to work.  I doubted both bulbs would have gone bad at the same time! 

With my rudimentary trouble shooting skills, I think it must be the headlight switch. I'm obviously not getting power to the bulbs...

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Greg McDonnell
CLC# 20841 

[homeonprunehill]

Guys,

I need your help!  I cannot, for the life of me, figure out what is the problem with my front parking lamps on my '66 Eldorado.  The turn signals work fine as do the cornering lamps.  The headlights also work with no problem.  I checked the fuse chart in the shop manual and it appears the parking lamps are on the same fuse (15 amp) with the headlights so it can't be the fuse.  Could it possibly be the headlight switch not working in the parking lamp position?  Oddly, when I pull the headlight switch knob out to the parking lamp position, the tail lamps and the license tag lamps work properly.  Knowing it probably wasn't the cause of the problem, I changed the bulb in one of the parking lamps and that didn't get things to work.  I doubted both bulbs would have gone bad at the same time! 
With my rudimentary trouble shooting skills, I think it must be the headlight switch. I'm obviously not getting power to the bulbs...
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Greg McDonnell
CLC# 20841 

02-17-08
Greg, Most(if not all)of lamp problems is because of a problem with the ground. One way to check for a bad ground is to take a length of wire and test each bulb by applying the wire to the brass/copper part of the bulb (you should be able to put the bulb-in with the wire along-side of bulb, touching the brass/copper) and touch the other end to a good-clean ground. HTH
Good Luck,JIM

[Greg McDonnell]

Jim,

Thanks for your suggestions!  I should have mentioned in my original post that I checked the ground and it is fine.  The fixture is fully grounded-if not the turn signals wouldn't work.  I disconnected the plug connector to each fixture and ran a wire from the terminal connected to the blue wire directly to the positive terminal on the battery.  Both lamps came on without any problem.  Therefore, I have eliminated the problem being in the fixtures themselves.  I cannot find any broken wires and all the plug in connectors are together under the dash. 

It was suggested to me by another member that the problem may lie in the switch-corrosion on the parking lamp terminals.  He suggested moving the knob in and out MANY times to clean the corrosion.  I'll try that and see if it helps.

Thanks again for taking the time to reply to my question Jim!

Greg   

[Greg McDonnell]

Well, I'm back to square one   Turning the knob back and forth quite a bit as well as pulling it out and pushing it back in did no good.  My guess is the problems lies in the switch and no where between it and the lamps.  The reason I say this is both parking lamps are out, not just one.  I am going to remove the switch this weekend and see if the terminals are corroded as it was suggested they might be and that might be the cause of the lamps not lighting.  Has anyone else ever had this problem?  If so what did you find to be the cause?

Greg 

[35-709]

The terminals may well be corroded but the ones in question are INSIDE the switch.  I haven't looked at a '66 switch but the one in my '60 could be taken apart for cleaning if done CAREFULLY.  If you're not familiar with the internal workings of headlight switches (assuming you can even get into the '66 switch) I would find someone who likes to do that kind of stuff.  Inside the 1960 switch are some contacts riding on springs plus a few other parts that all can very easily be dislodged before you get a chance to see how everything goes together when you take the switch apart, then you have a head scratcher.  I did mine only after I had bought another one that worked, that way I wasn't concerned if I messed up my original one taking it apart.  Turns out I cleaned up and fixed mine and used it instead of the one I bought.  Still have the other '60 switch but no longer have the car, guess I should put it on eBay.   
Good luck.

[homeonprunehill]

Well, I'm back to square one   Turning the knob back and forth quite a bit as well as pulling it out and pushing it back in did no good.  My guess is the problems lies in the switch and no where between it and the lamps.  The reason I say this is both parking lamps are out, not just one.  I am going to remove the switch this weekend and see if the terminals are corroded as it was suggested they might be and that might be the cause of the lamps not lighting.  Has anyone else ever had this problem?  If so what did you find to be the cause?
Greg 

02-19-08
GREG, prior to disassiming (sic) the switch, take  a volt-meter and see if you have vlotage at the parking light termnialds (I supspec you do) If not get some "electronic-contact"cleaner and clean/lube the contacts in the switch prior to removing the switch. If you don't have a volt-meter & contact cleaner, go to "RADIO-SHACK", they should have both items.  (also check for voltage at the PL sockets) HTH
Good Luck,jim

[Greg McDonnell]

The terminals may well be corroded but the ones in question are INSIDE the switch.  I haven't looked at a '66 switch but the one in my '60 could be taken apart for cleaning if done CAREFULLY.  If you're not familiar with the internal workings of headlight switches (assuming you can even get into the '66 switch) I would find someone who likes to do that kind of stuff.  Inside the 1960 switch are some contacts riding on springs plus a few other parts that all can very easily be dislodged before you get a chance to see how everything goes together when you take the switch apart, then you have a head scratcher.  I did mine only after I had bought another one that worked, that way I wasn't concerned if I messed up my original one taking it apart.  Turns out I cleaned up and fixed mine and used it instead of the one I bought.  Still have the other '60 switch but no longer have the car, guess I should put it on eBay.   
Good luck.

Geoff, 

Thanks for the warning, I shall heed it!  Ironically, I tried to get an NOS switch for the '66 just the other night on Ebay.  I 'had it' for just a short while near the end only to have someone else snatch it away from me.  Although my high bid was $30 and some change, I was going to get the switch for $12.01-what I considered a great price! The winning bidder paid $31 and some change.  I hope he's happy with his expensive switch!  Maybe I can find another switch (new or rebuilt) somewhere and just replace the one in the car.  As for the terminals, I was going to remove (one at a time, the wire connectors and clean the terminal where each wire connects to the switch.  I hadn't planned on doing anything inside the switch-that's WAY past beyond my skill level, LOL!
I guess corrosion could have developed on the outside terminals.  After all, the switch is more than likely the original one, and I live in a humid climate (South Alabama) so corrosion could be what's stopping the flow of electricity to the lamps.  Ah, the joys of old car ownership, LOL!

Greg

[35-709]

I was tired last night when I wrote my post and could have said it all better.  It COULD be corrosion on the wire terminals but I rather doubt it, I live in SE Florida so I have met Mr. Corrosion  .  IMHO you missed a real bargain even at $31 for an NOS headlight switch for your car!
A thorough volt meter check as Jim suggested is a good idea before you replace that switch. 
Geoff

[Greg McDonnell]

Well, I'm back to square one   Turning the knob back and forth quite a bit as well as pulling it out and pushing it back in did no good.  My guess is the problems lies in the switch and no where between it and the lamps.  The reason I say this is both parking lamps are out, not just one.  I am going to remove the switch this weekend and see if the terminals are corroded as it was suggested they might be and that might be the cause of the lamps not lighting.  Has anyone else ever had this problem?  If so what did you find to be the cause?
Greg 

02-19-08
GREG, prior to disassiming (sic) the switch, take  a volt-meter and see if you have vlotage at the parking light termnialds (I supspec you do) If not get some "electronic-contact"cleaner and clean/lube the contacts in the switch prior to removing the switch. If you don't have a volt-meter & contact cleaner, go to "RADIO-SHACK", they should have both items.  (also check for voltage at the PL sockets) HTH
Good Luck,jim

Jim,

When you said 'terminals' in your post, were you referring to the ones on the back of the switch?  If so, how would I get to them while the switch is still in the dash?  From what I could see while under the dash yesterday, that doesn't look possible.  Also what were you referring to when you mentioned cleaning/lubing the contacts in the switch prior to removing it?  I'm a bit confused by your instructions but appreciate them nonetheless!

Greg

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Greg,

To perform any testing on the Switch, prior to CAREFUL disassembly, I would be recommending you remove it from the Dash.

Bruce.

[Greg McDonnell]

  Oddly, when I pull the headlight switch knob out to the parking lamp position, the tail lamps and the license tag lamps work properly. 

If the headlight switch is working in the parking lamp position for the tail lamps and the tag lamps, then I would have to say the switch is fine. You need to trouble shoot with a test light from the light socket back to the switch.

HTH,
Lou   

Hindsight is usually 20/20 Lou!  I am kicking myself for not doing in the beginning as you suggested in your post.  I finally located my test light (it was not put back where I usually keep it) and started at the connectors under the radiator support.  The test light lit up on both sides of the connector and even when I stuck it in the cream wire leading to the fixture.  My guess is the problem lies at the base of the socket.  I will update this thread when I can get a little time to spend removing the fixure and check out the socket.  I cleaned it a week or so ago so I know there is no rust in it.  The lights were not working prior to the cleaning so I doubt I did anything to it to have caused the problem.  I'm now thinking the bulb is not making good contact down at the base of the socket. 

Greg

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I have found, on occasions, that the spring-loaded contact in the light socket base can stay in the fully-compresses position, after the lamp has been inserted.   

This leaves the contact slightly away from the lamp base, and it takes a bit of freeing up to get the spring to work as it should.

Springs do rust and lose their "springicity".

Bruce.

[Greg McDonnell]

Well, I really should get someone to give me a good, swift kick in the behind for not using the test light in the beginning of this quest to get my parking lights working again.  As it turns out, the problem is down in the base of the socket.  The cream wire (the hot wire to the parking lights) is loose in the socket and is not fully coming in contact with the small nub on the bottom of the bulb.  I was told by a friend I can replace the socket base (available at Advance, Auto Zone etc.).  I checked out what they have and, ironically, I found a socket that looks exactly like the ones in the fixtures.  The tension (new springs) is so much better than the old sockets in the fixtures.  I am going to try and get the old sockets out of the fixtures and replace them with the new ones.  I'm hoping I can use a cylindrically shaped wire splice to connect the new wires to the original ones and hide the connection with heat shrink tape (like what is on the old sockets from the factory).  Will let you know how it goes... Greg

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Greg,

As a temporary fix, you could attempt to build up the terminal on the light with solder, or even the terminal inside the socket.

The only problem here with soldering the base of the lamp is that you have to allow for the final twisting of the lamp as it is seated within the socket.   This requires a wider "Footprint" so the extended part will slide on the opposing contact as the globe is twisted.

Bruce. 

[Greg McDonnell]

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Today I replaced the contents of the socket in one of the parking/signal lamps.  I also found I had a problem at the connector with the cream wire coming from the fixture.  I had power on both sides of the connector but somehow the wire was not getting the power.  I had none at the other end of the wire.  So I had to remove the wire, strip it and reinsert it in the connector.  Although it was good and snug, I superglued it in place so I doubt it will be coming out any time soon.  Once that was done and I could see things were working as they should, I reattached the cream and blue wires to the base of the socket and pushed the original black protective cover back on it and reassembled the lamp in its housing.  Once the lamp was back in the grille and working as it should, I breathed a HUGE sigh of relief!  One down and one to go.  At least the other one (hopefully) won't be as difficult as I learned on the first one-LOL!

This has indeed been a learning experience for me.  I sincerely appreciate all the help and advice I was given.  I hope this thread may one day help someone else who has a problem with their lights.  And do use as test light before assuming it is the switch.  I could have saved myself a lot of grief and time had I done that in the beginning!

Greg McDonnell
CLC# 20841 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

CONGRATULATIONS

There is nothing worse than losing sleep over "simple" things.    But then, nothing to do with Electricity is simple.

Bruce.