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1980 Seville Injector Problem(s)

Started by Ron Draper, February 29, 2008, 12:33:54 AM

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Ron Draper

Hi All,
Long story but this is the short version.
My 1980 Seville with the 368 engine has setup for 6 years.  Time to dust off the cob webs.
I put in new gas - and - it basically started right up.  Has a miss and a lifter noise.  Well the lifter was stuck and the noise disappeared after 10 minutes but not the miss.
I check the injectors and the right one is dripping gas and the left one is a nice cone shape.  I switched injector plugs and the right injector continued to drip.
I removed the right injector and cleaned it out while tripping the injector electrically.
Put it back together and the injector is better (less drip but no cone spray either).
So I drive the car to the parts store to get an injector but they need to order one so I return home.  The next day - I drive it back to the store and it runs badly and the injector is back to a drip (nearly a stream).  I have a long lunch at the place next door and the car cools off.  I start it again and it is running really badly with lots of black smoke until it warms up (have to hold foot pedal far down to keep running).  The best speed is 20 mph for the 2 mile trip home.  I shut it off and will deal with it after it cools down.  I pop open the TBI and remove the right injector and put in the new injector.  It will not start but will spit back and light the fuel.  No leaks and both injectors seem to be about equal in fuel output.  I even tried crossing the injector plugs with no difference.  Tried to run with the untouched left injector - still spitting back.

Any suggestions are welcome and as all ways - thanks for the help!

Ron

Big Fins

Classic symptoms of a car that has jumped time.

Pull #1 plug and bring the piston up to TDC and look at the timing pointer. Or do a compression test.  How many miles are on this car. In your quest to do the initial start up, it might have "kicked back" causing the jump in the valve timing.

When you try and start it does it spin over a bit more feely than it did before?

Fins

TJ Hopland

How many miles on the engine?

Was anything special done before it was stored?

What type of environment was it stored in?

What shape/ age are the tune up stuff?
Did you have a good look at plugs cap rotor and such?

You may have just dumped a ton of fuel into the thing.  While you are waiting for the parts I would pull the plugs and let it sit for a while (in hopes of evaporating some excess fuel).  Smell the oil for signs of fuel, if the oil smells like fuel you found your problem.  If there is fuel in the oil I would change the oil right away and maybe even add a small shot direct to the cylinders and crank it over a couple of times so there is no further damage.  If you get too much oil in the cylinders it will be hard to start so you dont want to go too crazy. New set of plugs with you new injectors and see what happens. 

If it still does not run right then its back to basics like compression.   The 368's still had the plastic cam timing gear and even with fairly low miles at this age they are prone to falling apart so that is a possibility.  You can see enough of it to get an idea of its condition by removing the dizzy.   

StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

TJ Hopland

Just had another thought, see if you can find the MAP sensor and make sure the vacuum hose going to it is not plugged or cracked.  Im not sure on that being the first year but on later models its about 1" X 3" X 3/8" with a single vacuum line going into it and a multi pin connector.  I remember some on the firewall but most were on a bracket off the intake next to the valve cover.  If the map is not getting a good signal it computer is not going to have any idea how much fuel to deliver.  You sill have the injector problem but that could be adding to it.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason