Powdercoating (2 questions)

[Bill Gauch #23121]

First question: Has anyone found a powder (or sequence of powders) that match the flathead green? I was thinking, if the match was good enough, all the parts that don't get all that hot would be good candidates for powdercoating.

Second question: Assuming there isn't a powder that matches, has anyone had luck with engine enamel over powder? I see Eastwood sells an epoxy powder that is listed as a primer but I don't know if that is necessary or even desired. I have read a few things that say paint-over-powder may work if you scuff with 320 grit paper and then paint with an epoxy primer followed by a top coat. I don't currently have spray equipment, so all I can do is rattle can or brush work, so that would be preferable.

[Quentin]

 G'day Bill.
             I have painted straight over powdercoat with both enamel and acrylic pressure pack cans very successfully. Nice and durable and easily touched up in the event of damage.
  Yes the trick is to remove the waxiness of the powdercoating with a thoughore 320 sandpapering. A very light tack coat first up . Let tack off for a few minutes followed by one or two heavier coats. Leave a few minutes between coats.
             Regards. Q

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Hi Bill: I too do not have spray equipment but like most who restore the flat heads, I use several spray cans of Cadillac green on the finished engine. Take your time with the spray can and you can have a decent looking engine. Even if you did find the correct green powder coat I would think the cost of doing powder coat from a company would far out way the price of about 4 cans of spray paint. Attached is my 47 chassis which shows the spray painted engine. Now the rest of the chassis has been powder coated which I believe is the way to go if you are doing a body off restoration.

[Fred Zwicker #23106]

Shepard's Automotive spray painted my engine with enamel (not spray can) and it looks good to me.  The cost of powder coating would be expensive, as well as overkill.  Attached are 2 pictures of my engine after rebuilding by Shepard's in Akron, Ohio.

Fred

[Bill Gauch #23121]

I suppose I should have said it explicitly, but I actually have the powdercoating equipment. I wasn't planning on doing the whole engine, but I was thinking that things like the water pump and pulley, the transmission, and some other random bits. I'm sure it would be overkill, considering I will likely have to paint over it anyway to get an exact match. I just was thinking the extra corrosion and chemical protection would be beneficial. Oh well, I guess I already painted my primary water pump housing anyway, so that's one less thing I have to do. Thanks.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

How will the Powder Coating go with trying to assist in getting the heat OUT of the motor?

Will it assist of not?

Bruce.

[Bill Gauch #23121]

How will the Powder Coating go with trying to assist in getting the heat OUT of the motor?

Will it assist of not?

Bruce.

I don't think it will. In fact, there is probably an insulating aspect to powdercoat from what I have read. I don't see it all that significant, but every little bit of heat reduction could only be a benefit. That said, I was going more for corrosion and chemical resistance of parts that don't need to dissipate heat like the parts and pieces I listed in my last post. Of course, if I were to go all out and powder everything that is green with a close color, that would eliminate the color match issue. My biggest goal is preservation. I would like it if my grandchildren didn't have to deal with this:

[Fred Zwicker #23106]

Shepard's Automotive spray painted my engine with enamel (not spray can) and it looks good to me.  The cost of powder coating would be expensive, as well as overkill.  Attached are 2 pictures of my engine after rebuilding by Shepard's in Akron, Ohio.

Fred

I forgot to mention that even though my engine was painted by Shepard's with the correct color in enamel (not spray can), the exhaust manifolds were porcelainized by Prairie in MN and the following components were powder coated in black: Air Cleaner Housing, Large "V" shroud over radiator, fan blade, other parts.  Attached is a photo of the parts that I cleaned up by glass beading and had powder coated for my car (all in black).   One thing that we do not want to do is to put a shiny enamel on the radiator. I once did this on an older car and it looked great, but unfortunately the car overheated. Someone then told me that for the radiator, this should not be done. When I had my radiator recored and rebuilt, I stayed with the black coating that the radiator shop  used (most is covered by the shroud anyhow).

Fred

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

How will the Powder Coating go with trying to assist in getting the heat OUT of the motor?  Will it assist of not?  Bruce.

I don't think it will. In fact, there is probably an insulating aspect to powdercoat from what I have read. I don't see it all that significant, but every little bit of heat reduction could only be a benefit.

G'day Bill,

I was actually referring to the ability of the coating to assist in getting the heat out of the motor parts, and thereby assisting in the cooling of the components.

The heat-removal is one of the reasons why I like to paint a motor and not use any chrome parts which assist in retaining heat, oh, and assist in leaking as well.

Bruce.

[kgas]

Hi, POR 15 has a very nice green for your engine and it's hi heat resistent. It's call "Austin Healy Green", but it's a very close match to the cadillac green and you can brush it on without fear of brush strokes being left in the finish. I used it on my 39 LaSalle with great results. Good luck! Kerry

[Kerry Pilling]

Bill, these engines were designed to run hot. The operating temperature with a 15 lb cap is 240 degrees. The best thing to do in my opinion is make sure you have a good tight water system i.e., hoses and clamps correct radiator cap, right amount of antifreeze (50/50) ratio and at least 90% or better flow rate on the radiator core. If all of this is done your engine should run in the normal or middle of the temp. gage. If you feel you need a little more cooling you can get a 5 or 6 bladed fan and don't forget to make sure that the thermostat is opening the shutters on the front os the radiator. I disconnect my shutters as I only drive in the summer with the car and don't need them. I wired them permanetly open. Best of Luck and Happy Motoring, Kerry