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1936 Cadillac

Started by Art Laing, May 12, 2008, 01:35:56 PM

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Art Laing

Hello,

Restoring a 1936 Cadillac 70 series Fleetwood. Would like to know how to remove lower cross shaft on front brake hub. Top shaft came apart easily by removing (unscrewing) ends and unscrewing shaft with allen wrench. Have caps off bottom shaft. One end has screw driver slot, will turn 1/4 turn both ways but won't budge. Do not want to damage shaft. Need to separate a-arm from brake drum for media blasting. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Art  CLC# 22023

tozerco

Quote from: Art Laing on May 12, 2008, 01:35:56 PM
Hello,

Restoring a 1936 Cadillac 70 series Fleetwood. Would like to know how to remove lower cross shaft on front brake hub. Top shaft came apart easily by removing (unscrewing) ends and unscrewing shaft with allen wrench. Have caps off bottom shaft. One end has screw driver slot, will turn 1/4 turn both ways but won't budge. Do not want to damage shaft. Need to separate a-arm from brake drum for media blasting. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Art  CLC# 22023

Art,

I assume you are talking about the Lower-Inner shafts in this post, i.e., the (about) 1 foot long shafts at the internal end of the "A" arm. Be very careful removing these as they are under load from the coil springs. They will let go with a very abrupt and dangerous "Bang" and the coil spring may even fly out and around if they are released from the chassis suddenly. Even if you are talking about the Lower Outers (the shafts about 5 inches long on the external end of the "A" arm) you need to take a lot of care.

As I recall dismantling my 36 75 series the internal shaft was just saddle clamped to the chassis and you remove the shaft by removing the bolts from the saddle clamps (AFTER placing a spring compressor on the coil springs!).

The external shafts have either a pin driven into the housing for the shaft, or a bolt in a threaded hole in the housing that stops the shaft from turning (the shaft has a flat section ground onto it to accommodate this pin). It can sometimes (particularly when worn) allow a quarter turn on the shaft but then the flat section runs out and the pin engages the edge of the threaded section. You need to remove this pin (not easily done as I recall) or undo the bolt (from 1937 I think they went to a bolt because the '36's were so difficult to replace).

Please be careful of those coil springs either way and get a spring compressor from somewhere. I made one out of two lengths of 2 inch x 2 inch angle connected by two 1/2 inch threaded "Brooker" rods either side. One angle went over the top of the coil spring housing and one under the circular recess in the 'A' arm for the coil spring. I compressed the spring by tightening the nuts on the threaded rod and leaving this all in place until the shafts were removed. I then VERY gently and taking care to loosen each nut on the threaded rod sequentially, took the compression out of the spring.

If you car has 6 wheel gear remember that the coil springs were even stronger (and more dangerous) than the non-6 wheel equipped cars for all the extra load the six wheel arrangement caused.

Best of luck,


John Tozer
#7946
John Tozer
#7946

'37 7513
'37 7533

Art Laing

John,

    Thank you for your reply. I used a spring compressor to disassemble A-arm. Have lower A-arm still assembled to drum and backing plate. Trying to remove from lower shaft that attaches to A- arm. Should unscrew like the top did. Car down to bare frame. The last of my hurdles for the moment.  Art

homeonprunehill

Quote from: Art Laing on May 14, 2008, 10:03:43 AM
John,

    Thank you for your reply. I used a spring compressor to disassemble A-arm. Have lower A-arm still assembled to drum and backing plate. Trying to remove from lower shaft that attaches to A- arm. Should unscrew like the top did. Car down to bare frame. The last of my hurdles for the moment.  Art
[/quot

05-14-08
ART, I thank that the "shop-manual wil say that you have to "spread" the lower "A" frame to remove the lower shaft and when you go to reassembly, you have to clamp the lower "A"back to the origional position. Don't take my word for it, go to your public libaray and looki-up the correct proceedger in a "Motor-manual". You should be able to make 10 copies at no cost. Good Luck,Jim
USED,ABUSED AND MISUSED CADILLACS AND LA SALLES

Art Laing

Thanks Jim. Trying to locate a shop manual. (or the library)  Art