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37 caddy electric choke wiring help

Started by harvey b, May 14, 2008, 06:03:17 AM

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harvey b

Hello All,spring is finally here in eastern canada,was a balmy 5 degrees celsius yesterday,am getting my 37 caddy home this weekend as it was stored for the winter,have a few bugs to iron out this summer,my car has the original carb with the electric choke on it,when we rewired my car i could not find a 5 post regulator as these cars had when new,i used a 4 post one that i bought from a place,in the wiring it calls for a seperate wire for the choke?i need to know how to make this work,car is hard to start without a choke,can easily open hood and flip it over,but thats a PITA.i do have a shop manual and some wiring experience,car is still 6 volts.any help is appreciated.  thanks Harvey B
Harvey Bowness

homeonprunehill

Quote from: harvey b on May 14, 2008, 06:03:17 AM
Hello All,spring is finally here in eastern canada,was a balmy 5 degrees celsius yesterday,am getting my 37 caddy home this weekend as it was stored for the winter,have a few bugs to iron out this summer,my car has the original carb with the electric choke on it,when we rewired my car i could not find a 5 post regulator as these cars had when new,i used a 4 post one that i bought from a place,in the wiring it calls for a seperate wire for the choke?i need to know how to make this work,car is hard to start without a choke,can easily open hood and flip it over,but thats a PITA.i do have a shop manual and some wiring experience,car is still 6 volts.any help is appreciated.  thanks Harvey B


05-14-08
Hsarvev B. If I understand everthing , the original wire to the choke was from the VOLTAGE regulator. If I have this correct,, just run a wire from a HOT terminal on the four(4) terminal regulator to the choke, most likely the BATT terminal.(hot with key on ).Good Luck,JIM

USED,ABUSED AND MISUSED CADILLACS AND LA SALLES

tozerco

Harvey,

John Washburn is a bit of an expert on these carbies. Maybe he can be drawn out of the winter gloom to give you a hand with it..... and I wouldn't mind a copy of whatever you end up with. I have both the original carby and regulator but an answer to your post is very interesting to me.

Regards,


John Tozer
#7946
John Tozer
#7946

'37 7513
'37 7533

John Washburn CLC 1067 Sadly deceased.

Harvey and John,

I'm out of my league on this one.

First all the conversions I've seen and done have been 5 post to 3 post regulators 118204 or 310. You remove the Ignition Terminal off the 5 post voltage regulator cut the end off, tape it and hide it and you are done with the Ignition Terminal wire. This wire just senses voltage at the ignition switch, the power for the heater and choke are on the other side of this wire. The only other change is that you connect the ground lead off the 5 post (GRD) to the Gen on the new 3 post along with the Gen lead.

The problem on this conversion is that, in a lot of cases, the ignition switch is dirty and needs to be cleaned, or the regulation will bounce around. So you have to take the ignition switch (not the button), out and soak it in lacquer thinner for a day then blow it out and turn it off and on to get it to work correctly. I would not suggest taking the switch apart, generally won't go back togeter.

Harvey, what type of positive ground VR are you using (make and model number if you have it), and what are the 4 terminals. If it is only missing the Ign Terminal, and your new harness is wired correctly for the choke, it should work without the Ign Terminal. But sounds like there is no wire to the choke. So you may have to trace things out. Or at least see if we get power to the choke wire?

No gurantees. Good Luck.
John Washburn
CLC #1067
1937 LaSalle Coupe
1938 6519F Series Imperial Sedan
1949 62 Series 4 Door
1949 60 Special Fleetwood
1953 Coupe DeVille
1956 Coupe DeVille
1992 Eldorado Touring Coupe America Cup Series

harvey b

Helo John, on my regulator there is 3 spade terminals and the 4th one is for the ground,it has a ring terminal that attaches where the bolts hold it to the firewall,it is not a real 4 terminal setup,i dont have the car home yet and forget exactly how we had the choke wired,i do have the wire in the harness for the choke too,i forget where it was attached to.my main question is does this wire have constant power all the time or does the regulator turn the voltage up or down to make the choke close or open, im not sure how this works ???,i have a shop manual to help me with setting it up,i only need a choke to help with cold starts,i dont want to put a cable setup on it at all.i finally figured out my other charging woes,we had 2 of the wires on the regulator on wrong,500.00 later and all it was is 2 wires were reversed :P I will post the regulator model number later today as i still have the box for it in the garage.  Thanks Harvey B
Harvey Bowness

John Washburn CLC 1067 Sadly deceased.

Harvey,

Just to cheer you up. I am working on changing my voltage regulator back to the original (well almost, it is correct outside but solid state inside). So have to do some wiring to the generator, am presently taking the ignition switch cable out to soak in lacquer thinner, since it jumps all over the place.

Now back to the choke. It looks like it is feed power all the time when the key is on, so ignition on power to the heater spring in the choke, choke goes off.

This was not a good electric choke system. Only used two years 37 and 38 ( I also have a 38). On mine, even thought the Voltage Regulator is electrically correct for these years I am taking the ignition wire off and wire around it. Should be more stable and work a lot better.

Good Luck



John Washburn
CLC #1067
1937 LaSalle Coupe
1938 6519F Series Imperial Sedan
1949 62 Series 4 Door
1949 60 Special Fleetwood
1953 Coupe DeVille
1956 Coupe DeVille
1992 Eldorado Touring Coupe America Cup Series