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Hydro-electric System on a '48

Started by vicbrincat, August 10, 2008, 09:28:40 PM

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vicbrincat

I know that this topic has been discussed many times but there are a couple of questions outstanding.

I am converting my hydro-electric system to use transmission fluid.

1. had the electric motor on the Hydro-electric pump rebuilt and installed a new solenoid.
2. Replaced all the lift cylinders (7 in total, convertible top, windows and seat). They recommend use of transmission fluid.
3. Made new flex hoses. (Used 300 psi  hoses and had them made to withstand transmission fluid.)
4. Cleaned out all the metal lines with brake cleaner

Do I need to worry about the seals in the actual pump itself?  Also the fitting (that connect to the flexible lines) on the pump itself use a rubber seal. Is this seal going to be okay with transmission fluid?

Would like to know what everyone ese has done and what their experiences are.

One last note: The reservoir on the Hydro-electric pump cautions you NOT to use mineral spirits....why this warning? Was it normal to use something other than the recommended brake fluid?


Thanks in advance for your help.

Vic Brincat

Terry Wenger #1800

Vic:

I did all the things you have done to your Hydro-Electric syrtem in my '47 convertible. I put in ATF 3 years ago and have had no problems.

Terry Wenger

depmike38

Changed out the original pump in the 51 to one of hydroelectric's new one and talked to who I think is the original owner and he told me that all that's req'd is to completely flush it so the fluids don't mix and there should be no problem. The ATF's actually easier on the seals. Mike Freeman
Mike Freeman

vicbrincat

Thanks for the reponse folks. Based on your feedback I should be all set to go.

Vic

depmike38

Vic,
One more thing, before I realized that my rollers were completely shot I talked to H.O.E. and he gave me a sequence to go through if the windows are slow so in case you need to do this it's as follows:
1)Straight wire the pump to bypass the car's electrical system and see if the windows move faster if not then
2)Check outgoing pressure at the pump it should be 250-300 p.s.i.
3)Check for bypassing at the control valve. There are two lines going into the valve on the dashboard side of the valve.
   Disconnect the lower hose and cap the valve and hose(this is the return line) If the problem is here the windows
   should speed up.


     Hope this helps!  Mike Freeman
Mike Freeman