Has anyone had their car just shut down when using windows or convert top?

[collector]

If I use my convert top switch while the car is running and I accidentally go with the switch to close and the top is alreay up the car shuts totally off and nothing. The car is dead like I dont have a battery connected. I go and pull the hood latch and the car just comes back to life. Im telling you its the strangest thing I have ever encountered in my entire life. Once I restarted the car I went to make all the windows go down at once and the lights dimmed and the car shut off. What is going on? Then I went to use the top and it clicked and wouldnt go up or down. I finally after working the top switch back and fourth it finally went down. What is up with that? I wonder if there is a relay that is going out. The car starts like a dream and everything works but I just cant figure out what's happening. Has anyone had this issure before?

[Glen]

My guess is a bad battery.  I had a similar problem with a Die Hard battery.  I was driving in bumper to bumper traffic and I pushed the switch to roll down the window.  The car died. 

I’ve seen batteries that recover after they have gone to zero volts.  I can’t explain it but it happens. 

If you have a volt meter you can check the battery.  Put the meter leads on the battery post (not the cable connector) and monitor the battery voltage as you or a helper operate the top switch.  I think you will see the battery voltage drop well below 9 volts (assuming it’s a 12 volt system).  If it does then the battery is bad.   

Let us know what you find. 

Glen

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Mr.Collector.
Check your electrical harness connections on the "starter-body" harness where the leads, including the fusible links attach to the body harness which is located just above the starter on the right (passenger) side of the motor.  Age and continuous heat from the engine, transmission and exhaust can and does create havoc on this connector.  It is a multiple pin connector. Pull the male and female apart, check for bad terminals, clean up the terminals and put it back together carefully. Let us know how that works out.
Greg

[TJ Hopland]

I would also have a good look at the grounds also.  That connector by the starter is fairly easy to get apart.  The internal pins are just like many of the others where there is a little tab that can easily be released with a tiny screwdriver to get the whole pin out of the body for easier cleaning.  I usually use a dremel tool with a small wire wheel.

[Mike Shawgo]

Sounds like a problem I had once right after I had put in a new alternator--turns out I had not completely tightened down the hot wire going to the alternator (got a phone call or something), and it was intermittently loosing the connection.

--Mike
#20545

[Ted in Olympia WA]

Could be as simple as loose or dirty battery cables.

TED

[76eldo]

Ted is right.

I had the same thing happen to me on a 48 Packard.  The Packard has a huge hydraulic pump under the hoow, and ran the top, seat, and windows, which all had cylinders.

One time I was putting up the top, and everything died, and the car did just what you said.  I called a very well known Packard mechanic to ask if there was a master fuse or something like that in the car.  He said I had probably "flashed" one of the battery terminals.  I removed and cleaned both terminals, and everthing was normal again.

The other post regarding the wiring down by the starter is also good advice.  These wires are subjected to a lot of heat cycles, and sometimes a lot of oil and grease.  They get brittle, and lose the insulation.  I have had several 60's and 70's GM cars that needed the wiring repaired in that area.

Good Luck,

Brian

[Glen]

Normally when a battery terminal flashes it stays that way.  The way I read the original post this car recovers on its own.   That’s why I suspect the battery. 

The other posts all have good suggestions too. 

Glen

[collector]

Its not the battery as it is a new reproduction style energizer. The cables are original and are perfect.  Since the car only has 26k miles ( I thought it had 28k) I just looked at the odomoeter for the first time a few days ago. It has to be a ground somewhere. I will check the fuseable link first as I did have that problem with my 38k mile 79 Elegante and that wire was totally corroded. I replaced it with one from the junk yard and now its perfect. Thanks for that suggestion.