Radiator repair

[Terry Peters]

I am having recurring pin hole leaks in my radiator on my 33 LaSalle   They appear as dark drip lines on the fin surface as the radiator cools down.  This is the original radiator which has been kept full of water with alkaline additive for 30 years.  There are no signs of
fin deterioration. What I want to do is to: 1. Clean out the accumulated sludge.  2. Apply a minimum pressure to the radiator to reveal
any more pinhole leaks. 3. Plug the holes with a sealer.  I need to know what kind of a cleaner that will not harm the water pump, fan
seal and thermostat seal.  In past years, cleaners used oxalic acid which disolves rust but does not harm copper but this appears to be
off the market.  All the pressure kits seem to require an interior lip on the neck of the filler.  This radiator has none. Using the wrong kind of sealer might plug up the tubes.  I am leaning toward cellulose type in particular the ginger root powder.  I don't think this radiator
is so bad as to need to be boiled out which I hear is not what it used to be due to EPA restrictions.
I would appreciate any advise, good or bad experiences 

[Otto Skorzeny]

I think you're searching for a solution that doesn't really exist. The radiator is 75 years old and shot. Remember that the metal that radiator tubes are made from is quite thin in order to "radiate" the heat. By now, the tubes on yours are even thinner and maybe even brittle from internal corrosion and general fatigue.

Forget about "boiling it out". It's shot. Your radiator is going to continue to develop pin holes and maybe even splits if you try to use a quick fix method. Take it to a competent radiator shop and have it re-cored for $300 or so.

I don't know how often you drive your car but you don't want it to give out while you're on a tour or something. I understand the desire to "keep it original" but if you want it to function properly, have the necessary work done.

[Bill Ingler #7799]

good advice- your radiator core is shot . Once it starts pin hole leaks it is time to get a new core. Boiling out or roding just makes for more leaks.

[laseek]

Thanks guys.  A new core is of course the final answer, but these old radiators are very heavy built.  If I can find some way
to pressurize it, it will turn into a sprinkler if it is ready for the scrap heap.   I hear there is a company that makes original style
cores for these old radiators but you need a fat wallet.   I am hoping to hear from someone who has a car from this era.

[Wayne Womble 12210]

Hi Terry, Thanks again for your help with my car some years ago. You went way out of the way to help me.

I agree with the assesment of the others that is is probably pretty well shot, but , no need not to try. You can always re-core it later. You can find oxacilic acid at the home stores like Home Depot, or Lowes.  It is used as an industrial cleaner, and for masonry. It shouldnt hurt anything as the water pump seal is a simple packing and there is no contact with the thermostat. Can`t say what the effects on the radiator will be though.

That is a difficult radiator to solder because of its wafer cell type construction. The best way is to isolate the area and seal the leak with epoxy. I made some repairs on my 31 this way and it is still going strong after 15 years. This was the recomended repair method of the Corvette Aluminum radiator that is of the same general construction. 

There are some shops that can do a reproduction type re-core, but the costs are way out there. $2-3k  last time I checked and they are not exactly correct. There is at least one outfit that uses a thin face on the front or rear of the radiator and a modern core in the middle, also a big price.   

I had a core made by a large industrial supplier for my `33 and did the re-core myself. It is an industrial type radiator core and does a good job, but is also not correct, but only cost about $350.  I have the order and maybe the drawings for the size and shape.   

Wayne

[Terry Peters]

Wayne,
           Thanks for the encouraging words.  The fact that your '31 radiator is still "going strong" after 15 years is testimony as to
how well built these old radiators were.
Oxalic acid is some amazing stuff.  I have used it to clean rust from parts.  Even at maximum dilution with water it does not attack
chrome plating and only seems to "brighten up" brass.
I have decided to fabricate a radiator cap that will work with one of the pressure kits.
Then I will find out just how many holes this old "two ton" radiator has!

[Wayne Womble 12210]

You will also have to close off the vent tube.

[JerRita]

I don't know where you are located but there is a shop on Long Island Acme Radiator who can update and recore your radiator to look stock Their phone # is 631 581 9199 the owner is Speedy his assiastant is Danny JerRita