Quick caddy question

[Brandon]

     Is it necessary to remove the core support to take the 390 engine out of a 1960 cadillac?





  Thank you,

     Brandon

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

No.

Bruce.

[Brandon]

  Thanks...

  I ran into another question while trying to take the tranny out.

"Remove 4 nuts from flywheel-to-drive-plate screws."

This is in reference to removing the transmission. I can't locate these nuts or screws anywhere, and I'm not sure to what they're referring to. Does anyone have experience here and know what they're talking about?

And, just out of curiosity.. with is a TV lever? I'm sure it's removed, as none of the linkage is attached, but I'm not sure what it actually stands for.

[76eldo]

Brandon,

I have never pulled a 60 motor out, but I have done others.

There are bolts that bolt the flex plate to the torque converter. The flex plate, or flywheel, is bolted to the end of the crank.  The starter engages the teeth on the outer ring gear to crank over the engine.  Then, there are bolts that secure the converter to the flywheel (flex-plate), and that turns the converter, and trans input shaft.

Remove any inspection cover on the front of the trans, and/or the bell housing. You will have to rotate the flywheel to get to all the bolts.  Support the trans with a jack or some wood blocks.

Be careful under there, have good light, and don't get under the car if it's not safely supported by jack stands.

Good luck,

Brian

[homeonprunehill]

01-20-09
Brandon,have you exposed the "fly-wheel" yet? If you have removed a light metal cover from the rear of the engine and at the front of the transmission. You will see the (4) four nut .you will have to turn the engine. Easy to do with a common screw- driver
medium to large CSD Good Luck,JIM

[Brandon]

    This is what I thought it might mean.  I did my first transmission swap last year on my '87 K5 Blazer, and remember unbolting those from the flywheel as well, as I spun the engine.

   I looked, and didn't see 4 bolts at all, however, the engine may have been positioned just such that none of the bolts were visible.  I saw other bolts there, but there were many more than 4, so I discredited those from being the ones I sought.

  I may have inhaled a little too much bondo dust here and when I get back to the shop tomorrow realized I'm an idiot, but as I recall, the reason I didn't try to turn the engine over with a screwdriver as I did with the Blazer is because the bell housing surrounds the fly wheel 360 degrees, making it impossible to turn that way. 

  When the manual referred to the "slush guard," I'm not sure what it meant.  It mentioned it in the same sentence as the starter, so I presumed it was a protective shield around the starter which was no longer there, or the flat piece of metal which gains access to the flywheel, what I would call a "dust cover."  However, later in the manual, it describes removing an item which more perfectly fit the description of the dust cover, so I may have missed a step or perhaps am overlooking something simple.

   I'll check tomorrow for sure, but i'm almost certain that the flywheel cannot be accessed via tradition means with a screwdriver.

[Glen]

TV stands for Throttle Valve.  The throttle valve tells the transmission where the throttle is so it can change the way it shifts. 

The slush plate is a cover for the transmission linkage to protect it from dirt, rocks and slush. 

Glen

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Brandon,

On the '60, and other vehicles using the same Transmissioin, the Ring Gear is attached to the Fluid Drive, and not the Flex Plate as it would be in a later model GM or Ford, or any other Automatic car for that matter.

The Crankshaft is connected to the Fluid Drive by a Drive Plate, and is attached by four nuts that are accessed through the area covered by the bottom cover/Starter Moptor hole.

You will need to turn the crankshaft by hand, and the best way to do that is to place a socket and breaker bar on the front Crankshaft Bolt and turn it that way.   You will need to turn it a quarter of a turn at a time to access each nut/bolt, and once the four are removed, you can withdraw the engine once all the other fittings are undone, removed, or whatener.

The TV Rod is the Throttle Valve Rod that attaches from the Carburettor to the second lever that is on the transmission side at the Shifter Linkage arm.

When removing the engine, be careful not to lose the Spacer Disc that is in the end of the Crankshaft between the hub of the Fluid Drive unit and the Crank.   It is just sitting there.     If you do, you will lose preload when reinstalling the engine.

Bruce.

[Brandon]

  Ahhhh, I see.  That makes a lot of sense now that I think about what I saw.

  Thanks a whole lot for the advice!!! 
  I decided halfway through getting started that I would roll the car onto a lift and take the trans out first rather than with the engine.  I thought this would be easier than rolling around on a creeper and using the very temperamental jack, which loves to slam cars down on the stands, or floor.

Ahhh, throttle valve! gotcha.  I call it a kick down rod, or cable.  that was my guess, due only to process of elimination, but for all i knew it was something else that I had overlooked.

I do have one more question, and this may be completely ignorant, but I just don't know.
When the manual explains removal of the engine, it says to hook a chain or rope to the manifold (i believe it specifies manifold).  is it ok to run a chain under the high rise manifold to lift the engine out, or is this a very bad idea??

   Thanks a million,
      Brandon