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Flathead Cadillac Rear Main Seal Question???

Started by Jeff Kay CLC#7630, June 26, 2008, 12:12:41 PM

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Jeff Kay CLC#7630

I need to replace the rear main seal on my 1941 Cadillac.  I completed a search on this site and found that several people have used the Mercedes seal (#001 997 12 41) with great success.

I provided this information to my mechanic and he told me that he cannot locate this seal. 

Does anyone know where I might purchase this seal? 

Does anyone know what was the original application for this seal?

Lastly, does anyone have any good tricks, tools, etc. for installing this seal without removing the crankshaft?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  My car's been in the shop for a few months and I am going through terrible withdrawls without her.

Thanks

Jeff Kay CLC#7630

Bill Ingler #7799

Hi Jeff: The number you are using in correct and in the Mercedes Parts book it is called Ring, General Plastic. It should be available at any Mercedes dealer. I just purchased one for my 41 engine here in Phoenix. I think the seal is used in Mercedes diesel engines. The hard part at least on my 47 was getting the old seal out of the upper bearing seal grove. My 47 was done by someone who had done this seal before. He dropped the crank just a tad to take some pressure off the seal and then used what looked like a U shaped needle to fish the old seal out and then used the same tool to pull the new seal in place. The seal has been in place for about 9 years and about 10,000 miles. After a 200 mile drive I suppose it will leak an amount about the size of a 50 cent piece.

baxterculver

#2
Jeff:  Like Bill Ingler, I have used the Mercedes seal.  Twice.  The first time was helping a friend replace his leaky rope seal.  We dropped the rear main cap, loosened the center and front main caps jus enough to let the crank "droop" a bit, and pulled the old seal out.    To refit the Mercedes seal (which he purchased at NAPA) we used an inexpensive device (also purchased at NAPA) that works like a Chinese finger toy.  It consists of a spring clamp which is connected to a short wire with a loop around one end.  You put one end of the seal in the spring clamp, pass the wire over and through the main seal slot, and slowly pull the new seal into place.   I was feeding one end he was pulling on the other.  We could tell that the seal was in place by the resistance and feel of it all.  We (gently) pressed it fully into the groove using the crankshaft so that the rear main cap fitted correctly and torqued it all down.  Hasn't leaked since.  I installed mine with the engine on a stand and the crankshaft out--big difference. 
Two additional comments:  (1)  leave about an 1/8" of seal proud of the main bearing mating surface, both sides.  That will help compress the seal into the groove when everthing is bolted together;  (2)  be sure to seal the side grooves well.  I used a foam gasket material that is available from NAPA in aerosol can.  The OEM gasket set will give you two cork strips but they are difficult to install--esp with the crank still in the engine.  Mine doesn't leak after more than 2500 miles since the rebuild.
baxter culver clc#17184

Walter Youshock

Submitted by Geoff Newcombe:

Crankshaft Seal for Caddy flatheads ---


It seems that a Mercedes seal, part # 001 997 12 41, is a very good way to go. Here are tips to the install:
We dropped the rear main cap, loosened the center and front main caps jus enough to let the
crank "droop" a bit, and pulled the old seal out. To refit the Mercedes
seal (which he purchased at NAPA) we used an inexpensive device (also
purchased at NAPA) that works like a Chinese finger toy. It consists of a
spring clamp which is connected to a short wire with a loop around one end.
You put one end of the seal in the spring clamp, pass the wire over and
through the main seal slot, and slowly pull the new seal into place. I was
feeding one end he was pulling on the other. We could tell that the seal
was in place by the resistance and feel of it all. We (gently) pressed it
fully into the groove using the crankshaft so that the rear main cap fitted
correctly and torqued it all down. Hasn't leaked since. I installed mine
with the engine on a stand and the crankshaft out--big difference.
Two additional comments: (1) leave about an 1/8" of seal proud of the main
bearing mating surface, both sides. That will help compress the seal into
the groove when everthing is bolted together; (2) be sure to seal the side
grooves well. I used a foam gasket material that is available from NAPA in
aerosol can. The OEM gasket set will give you two cork strips but they are
difficult to install--esp with the crank still in the engine.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

35-709

Copied from the Modified Chapter, but first posted here as you can see.  I thought this would go well in the "Answers to Frequently Asked Technical Questions" thread at the top of this page.
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