Newbie Cadillac owner and questions... Help

[Doug Spingelt]

I just bought a 1975 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, blue with white top and interior.  She, (Beatrix) is in some desparate need of help and I am hoping to get some advice. 

a.) It was running, but died the other day and had to tow home.  no fuel seems the issue.  I have confirmed spark.  I am going to replace the fuel pump, which is mechanical off the cam in front.  Is that the only pump on this car? 

b.) driver's side rear is droopy.  can someone explain the air shock system to me?  Can I pump it up?  Is there

c.) most of my vacuum lines are disconnected in the back of the motor.  Doe anyone have a diagram of where they are supposed to go?  I want to hook it all back up, but no good way to tell what is what. 

d.) Hood release, this takes two people, one to pull the lever and the other to pull up on the hood.  there is a spring there, but is too weak to lift this massive piece of metal.  I have lubed all of the joints with silicone with no luck.  any ideas?

Rear hood ornament/key cover.  Does this just stick on? 

I hope I am not abusing this site with too many questions... I just have so many to get me started and literally to get it started!  Thanks a million in advance.  I am so excited to get the beauty out on the road!

[Bill Gauch #23121]

I can't answer your questions specific to '75, but here is my take on one question.

For a: Any time your car just cuts out, it's always a good idea to put 1-2 gallons of gas in the car. Sending units fail often. You may just be out of gas. I would try that first. I know someone who had his Mercedes die literally across the street from a gas station. He waited for a tow truck, had it towed to the MB dealer 20 miles away, got a loaner from them, and drove 20 miles back. They had his car for a week, testing each and every thing they could think was wrong before they realized it was out of gas and needed an new sending unit.

[TJ Hopland]

I wish I could say that I have never ripped a car apart just because it was out of gas.  My 78 the gauge still only goes down to 1/8 and stops.   My 75 would only go up to around 1/3 then stop moving.  You can always gently blow some air down the fuel line and listen for bubbles to be sure.  On a non EFI car there is only the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the motor.

Air shocks are on the rear only and they are hooked together so they cant really adjust Left to Right.   On my 75 I tried swapping the springs L to R to see if that would help but it didnt.  I ended up having to try and adjust the front springs which are torsion bars.  On one I was able to get the bolt to move but not the other.  I was able to get it much closer to level but did not work at it too long because I did not have a flat level surface to part on while making the adjustments.   

The air shocks are operated by a vacuum powered compressor that is located sort of in the right side fender near the radio antenna motor.   They often dont work when they have been sitting for a long time.  As far as I know there are no parts made for them.  There has been mention of someone on this site that has been able to rebuild them but I bet its not cheap.   There are 2 vacuum lines that go to the engine.  1 is the vacuum that goes to a T in the PCV line, the other is the inlet that goes to the air cleaner.  There is then a small plastic line that goes to the back of the car.  There is a standard air valve on the side that you can put air in the system to see what leaks.   There is a valve connected to the rear axle that controls the air to the shocks.   On all my cars I just installed aftermarket shocks with an air valve near the gas filler.  I bought an electric compressor from a junkyard from a later model thinking I would want to adjust it all the time but even towing my boat I dont seem to need to adjust it very often.    If the system has not worked for a long time the bladders in the shocks tend to get damaged and leak air.

The vacuum diagrams are in the shop manual.   1975 was a supplement year so you can likely get a good deal on one because they are much smaller than the full manuals.  The supplement covers the stuff that changes from year to year like emissions, vacuum, and electrical.

Hood release seems to be a common problem with age.   On mine I just took the guard off the latch so I can poke something like a tire iron through the grill and get to the release while I pull up on it.  My 75 I can usually pull the release one time then go pull on the hood then back to pull the release again and that time I can usually get it open.   On other cars I have slit a piece of vacuum hose to slip around the shaft of the release handle to hold it in the release position so you then can pull up on the hood.

IF there is no holes on the trunk it was just a stick on.  Other options were rivets or the emblem had spikes on it that were held with clips from the inside. 

[Doug Spingelt]

thank you so much for the great information.  I cannot wait to get out there this Sunday and get it up and running.  I have identified a fuel pump in town and will pick it up on Saturday.  I am just the type of person to run out of gas, but I have the benefit of having filled it up only 30 minutes or so before it died.  (For this I am glad not to have to drop the tank.) 

The air suspension may be another day's project, but I do want to get rid of the weird angle/droop in the back drivers side.  Since most of the vacuum hoses are disconnected, I can presume that it is adding to the issue.  I am looking for a shop manual and will pick one up ASAP. 

I am going to have to add another spring to the hood, or something. It is funny, I have done everything you suggested to open it on my own.  I have gotten it down to a three pull system, when by myself. 

I received my new rear fender extenders in the mail this week too.  hopefully I can get them on the car.  The priority is to get it started though. 

Thanks again.  I'll report back with my successes/challenges. 

[TJ Hopland]

There are several manuals on ebay now.  Its not the one that says Fuel Injection.  The one you want just says 'Supplement' at the bottom.  If you want to be sure you have all the info you will also need the 1974 shop manual and a 1975 'fisher body manual'.  I have found that 90% of the time the supplement has what I am looking for.

A common place for fuel problems is the hoses between the sending unit and steel lines back at the tank.  People often forget to replace those with the rest.   They are all about 20" long, there is 3.  A 3/8, 5/16, and a 1/4.  There is enough room to get the clamps with a needle nose above the tank so its not too bad a job.  You can see and get to them above the rear axle. The 3/8 is the fuel suction line but you might as well do all 3 while you are back there. 

[35-709]

Over the years I have had the fuel filter plug up on 2 different occasions very shortly after filling the gas tank.  I got a load of gunk in the gas from a bad storage tank.  Change out the fuel filter and see what happens, it certainly could be the pump but the filter should be changed every so often anyway and I like to try the cheapest and easiest stuff first. 

[Otto Skorzeny]

I put a clear inline fuel filter on my car back toward the tank along the frame rail. This stops anything before it works it's way too far down the system and doesn't detract from the original appearance. You can see it by stooping down in front of the rear wheel.

[Doug Spingelt]

Can you tell me where that fuel filter is?  I can't find it.  Thanks.

[TJ Hopland]

Stock fuel filters are a 'sock' filter on the pickup in the tank and a small cartridge one that fits in the carb right where the steel fuel line goes in the front.   Earlier models had the cartridge one in the fuel pump.  The 75's still had the large pump but did not have the filer in it.  The 425's used a similar pump but the inlet and outlet was oriented differently.  You can add a temporary filter anywhere you want.  On one of mine I put it between the inlet of the fuel pump and the steel line, it took a little extra hose to make the bends and keep it from hanging down but at least I did not have to cut the steel anywhere and it was easy to see if it was filling with crud.

[Doug Spingelt]

fuel pump finally installed and the car runs really well. very exciing. put new spark plugs in as well.  Now, of course I have a few questions. I think I will post them in a a new post for less confusion.  I bought the new fuel filter as well, but have not istalled it yet, as it is a bit tricky and it was cold and rainy.  Thanks everybody for their assistance!

[TJ Hopland]

Take your time on the fuel filter.  Often the steel line is rusted to the fittings and does not want to turn.  The threads that hold the cap/inlet to the carb are very fine and very easy to damage.  Its all made worse by how close the A/C compressor is.   Often times I have had to just cut the steel line and then use a piece of hose to splice it back together. 

[mgbeda]

I've found that to remove the fuel line from the carburetor (necessary to change the fuel filter) you must use a backup wrench on the large nut on the carburetor.  Then use a flare nut wrench (looks like a six point box wrench with a section cut out so you can slip it over a fuel line) on the smaller nut that holds the fuel line on.  Spray the joint of the small nut with PB blaster or Liquid Wrench, etc.  Then brace the big wrench and tap on the small one with a hammer until the nut unscrews.

Of course that back nut is big and needs a big wrench, which you might not be able to fit on.  So I usually end up removing the power steering belt and removing the four bolts that hold the AC compressor to the engine.  Then you can lift the compressor up and move it forward an inch or so, making the carb work a lot easier.  You don't have to lose any freon when doing this.  Also remove the nearby vacuum hose from the carb (of course if they are 30+ years old they will crack, but they would eventually anyhow) including a small metal nipple that is also in the way of your big wrench (it just pulls out of the carburetor, and pushes back in.)

All this isn't quite as bad as it sounds, and it goes back together easier than it comes apart.  Sometimes it's less work to remove the things in the way than to struggle with working around them.

-mB

[Doug Spingelt]

this sounds like a job for a nice Sunday afternoon...  I will do it as soon as I can get back outside again.  The AC won't be an issue to remove.  all it does in this car is function as a tensioner on the main belt as it is all disconnected.  I think when the as gone in for paint and it looks and runs really good, then I'll consider AC.  That is really a last priority, but would be fun to have.  It would feel so decadant. 

Thanks a million as always.  I am enjoying myself thoroughlly in this project. 

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Doug,
I have never had to take off an AC compressor to work on the carbueretor inlet fittings, but that being said if you want to take off the compressor there are three bolts in the rear fastening the rear compressor to the intake manifold, and two small bolts in the front of the compressor that hold it to the front bracket.
The hoses are of suffiicient length that you can pull it up and to the right side of the engine.
Greg

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Doug,
By the way, the '75 seems to be the winner in total vacuum lines used, so I would also check all those in the engine compartment for disconnects and breakage.  34+ years of use is hard on them.
Greg

[Glen]

The jaws on an open end wrench are too wide to fit on the large nut on the carburetor.  I used a box wrench and cut a small portion out to make a tubing wrench.  The thinner box wrench works well. 

IIRC the nut takes a one inch wrench. 

Glen   

[mgbeda]

Glen,

That is a great idea about cutting a piece out of a box wrench.  That would save moving the compressor for sure.

Greg, I could have sworn there were only two bolts at the back of the compressor, but I could be wrong.  My memory isn't what it used to be.  (At least I don't think it is.  I don't remember what it used to be.)  Also I have a '76, and maybe there are some differences.

Good luck on Sunday afternoon, Doug.

-mB

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

I recently bought a 75 Eldo convertible and had the same problem of being unable to open the hood unless someone pulled the under-dash hood release while I lifted the hood.  Then I remembered a guy at a car show who had one of these cars with the massive hoods.  If the hood was pushed down too far, the latch would click several more times, sort of double or triple locking it.  If the hood is pushed down only far enough to hear the secondary latch click, then one more click for the main latch, the hood can be opened by simply pulling the hood release one time.  Otherwise it may be a 2-man job.  The trouble with this remedy is that it doesn't look like the hood is fully closed.  A better remedy would be to lower the hood latch, but the design prevents this, and I cannot think of any other way to do it.  Maybe the piece of vacuum hose around the release cable as suggested by someone here would be a better solution.

[Doug Spingelt]

We have come a long way since this original post. I have cleaned, tuned, painted, and detailed it and replaced most visible parts as nothing worked in the engine compartment.  I got a vacuum diagram from the shop manual and am still replacing lines in and reconnecting them. 

Regarding the hood release, my solution was to replace the hood mount side rubber bumpers and the screw-in front hood height adjusters.  I also took a piece of very hard rubber about 1/2 inch think and bolted it beneath the original spring strike zone; effectively creating more spring-lift when you pull the realease lever.  Long story short, it works perfectly every time and look great. 

I am replacing a leaky freeze plug and an exhaust leak this weekend and I am almost mechanically perfect.  (There will always be more though... no doubt.  I am still grappling with all sorts of funky body issues.  'll save them for future post. 

Thanks as always for the great information.  It has saved me hours of time and frustration. 

[DaveShreiner CLC#23834]

Thanks Doug for your reply.  I am now going to try what you suggested, but I am not sure about the location of your hard rubber pieces beneath the "spring strike zone".  What and where is the  "spring strike zone"?

I bought my 75 Eldo convert just a couple of weeks ago.  It also needed a new fuel pump, a fact made very clear by the strong odor of gasoline when the engine was running.  It was leaking so badly the engine lost power and barely limped along to the repair garage.  Several vacuum lines were disconnected too, but not enough that I couldn't figure out where they had to go.  Most were around the cruise control, which of course did not work.  Now that it works I'm not sure I want to use it anyway.  The vacuum keeps kicking in and out too suddenly, so you get the feeling of being alternately jerked forward and then coasting, over and over.  The first 79 Eldo I had possessed the same sort of cruise control.