37 cad transmission rebuilder in CA

[Jeff Boyd]

Can anyone recommend a trans shop in Ca that has experience with early (1937) cad transmissions? I am in central Ca near Fresno . I can crate and ship but prefer not across the country.

[Steve Passmore]

Hi Jeff. I had the same topic going last year about this because of my own 37 box, the main problem being they were never meant to be rebuilt in the field and therefor there is no information or availability for the special tools needed, Look it up under technical. I found another complete axle and had it shipped here to England.
Steve

[35-709]

Steve, are you talking about a transmission or rear axle?  Manual tranny's shouldn't be hard to get rebuilt --- especially in California.

[Steve Passmore]

Yes, sorry about that to both the Geoff / Jeff's, I was having a senior moment there,  Iv had axle's on the brain for a few months now, my apologies.    Interestly enough though I reached an en-pass when I was rebuilding my 37 transmission in that it too requires a special tool that's used to pull out and replace the selector arm retaining pins, these little buggers are threaded and the extractor attaches over the ends and the pin is drawn out, another tool then attaches over the thread to drive them in while protecting the thread, everything looked good in my box so I left well alone untill I check it in the field.
Good luck finding a rebuilder Jeff.
Steve

[Jeff Boyd]

Got the cluster gears out and I am now stuck trying to get the pin out for the low/reverse shifter fork which takes tool no.J-806 as Steve mentioned. Anyone have one or a drawing that I can copy and make one? Is the pin pressed in with threads on the end only to allow attachment of tool to extract it, or is it threaded all the way in?
Thanks,
Jeff Boyd

[Steve Passmore]

Threaded only for the tool Jeff as the book shows them being driven back in, with the tool treaded on of coarse.  I was going to have one made but finding the correct tread when you cant even see it is bit of a bind.
Steve

[Jeff Boyd]

Thread is 1/4-28 (1/4 fine) on end of pin. However after consulting with a higher power was told to drill out pin, replace with a new pin and tack/spot weld in place . Pin can be from tool steel or much easier, replace with broken/dull/etc. drill bit shank and weld in. select drill bit same size as used to drill out pin, cut to appropriate length (end that gets chucked in drill) and drive in secured with arc or mig weld.

Thanks,
Jeff Boyd

[Steve Passmore]

Thanks for that thread size Jeff that will be very helpful when I come to overhaul my box, but I wouldn't like to be the mecanic in future trying to drill out the shank of another drill bit that's been welded in place in what I would describe as a very awkward position in the box of the 60 series. My memory's a bit fuzzy but didn't think there was even room down in the box for the Electric drill, I think there's a lot more room on the bigger series. Ill stick to trying to make a proper tool.
Steve

[Jeff Maltby 4194]

Keiths Transmission Service
22312 Redwood Rd
Castro Valley, CA 94546
510-538-0055

Phil's Transmission
3909 Woodland Ave
Modesto, CA
209 523-0876

[harry s]

Snap On has a tool that will work on those pins. It is a Stud Remover Set #CJS 700. Works like a charm.

[Steve Passmore]

Thanks for that Harry, I cant find that part number in my Snap On book, but then it is 20 years old, couldn't find it on their web sit either, perhaps its been superseded?  Did see a stud puller kit under a different number.  I'm guessing also that this kit would be very expensive to buy for a man who would just want 10 minutes with just one piece of it?
Steve

[Mike Simmons 938]

Steve et al- The most recent Snap-On catalog I have dates from 2000- I think the following info is caorrect: The whole stud remover set is -CG515B (around $300 then- add quite a bit for latest price, I would think). But what you only need is the correct 1/4-28 collet and the associated housing, which are CG500-4 and CG500-2, respectively. That is the general housing that fits over all the collets in the set.
Now, that said, I don't think it will do the job. If memory serves , you access the threaded pin through a hole in the case that is normally stopped up with a pipe plug- maybe 1/8 inch pipe. Whatever- removing it leaves a 1/2-9/16 or so hole to work through and I don't think the collect end will fit through.

OK- Got off my butt and went to the garage to check.a) Forget the Snap-On collet-it is 1-inch in diameter BEFORE it expands over the threaded piece;
b) the home-made tool that I had the good fortune to acquire 30 years ago consists of a piece of steel bar stock (ca. .560 in diameter-roughly)with a 1/2-20 lug not pushed over one end and welded to it. A 1/4-28 hole is drilled and threaded in the other end - and there you have it. It's about 6 or 6 1/2 inches long and I don't think it would be that hard to make. The lug nut threads on to the end of my old Craftsman slide puller and with a  whack, the pin is out. Mike

[Steve Passmore]

Thanks for that Mike, I love all things that tax ones ingenuity and some of these home made tools stand the test of time very well, I would like nothing better than to say I made a remover.  Don't suppose I could trouble you for a picture or two of this piece of kit could I?
Steve

[harry s]

Mike, I checked the Snap On part numbers you listed and they are the collapesable type collets. The part number I listed is for a set of non collapseable collets with the small housing. The small housing by itself has a  part #CJ700-1 and has an outside diameter of 3/4". The pin in question is accessed through the transmission filler hole which is 7/8" diameter. My catalog is dated 1990.  I did use the tool to remove the transmission pin and it did work like a charm. I'm sure your homemade tool will work just as well. Just wanted to set the record straight. Harry

[Steve Passmore]

Just out of interest Harry, how did you drive the pins back in? I visualize having a steel rod say 1/2" diameter with the end drilled and threaded to accommodate the thread on the end of the pin, or does the Snap On tool do that as well?
Steve

[harry s]

Steve, The way you describe works fine. The Snap On collet is just a  1/2" diameter pin about 5 or 6" long, threaded at the bottom and can be used to tap the dowel back in. It would be easy enough to make one for that part of the opeation.

[Mike Simmons 938]

Harry- You sent me to the old book and mag pile on this one. CJ700 wasn't in my 1973 catalog, nor in the late ones; but I found two more in my stash-1991 and 1995. It wasn't in the '95 one either BUT, there it was in the '91 catalog. That number was for a beautiful set of stud and dowel pin removers. If you own that set, it must be a rarity, though I have no catalogs for the 80s. In any case, the 91 catalog had the price sheets with it- that set was over $500 even then. Maybe that explains why they went to the large collet type and a separate small dowel pin remover kit in '95, both of which were much cheaper.
And you are absolutely right about going through the filler hole for the 1st and reverse fork. That little plug is a couple of inches forward of the filler hole, so maybe that provided access to the pin for the 2nd-3rd fork??? It was only last year that I was into a 37 LaSalle box, but already my memory is mixing things up.
A different question, if you don't mind. Does the tail housing on your 37-75 have a mount cast into it for some sort of rod that went back to the rear end? I read somewhere that V12s had something to help them cope with clutch chatter, and I have a housing that has this odd dingus as part of the casting.Is there anything like that on your 75 series??
Mike

[harry s]

Mike, The set I have only has both thread 1/4 and 5/16 collets along with the small housing and load screw in a plastic roll up bag. I also still have the price sheet and it was $129 for that small set. I've used it about 4 times, so each time I use it gets cheaper.
That small screw near the filler plug is for the spring and ball which goes into the detent on the shift fork shaft.
My '37 75 series has that cast piece on the transmission tail shaft. There are two metal straps that attach to it, one on the top and one on the bottom. They are about a foot long and attach to a simular mount that bolts to the X frame. As far as I know the 75 series and 85 series are identical with the exception of he engine. My car even has the articulated steering shaft like the V12, but it is unnecessary with the V8.

[Steve Passmore]

As far as I know the 75 series and 85 series are identical with the exception of he engine. My car even has the articulated steering shaft like the V12, but it is unnecessary with the V8.

Your absolutely right that Harry, they just threw in a different engine. Even my 1936 70 series has the articulated steering shaft, so too does a friend's 37 75 series. Why, oh why, did they not stay with this feature, it was such advanced thinking, all manufacturers eventually went to it, all be it with rack and pinion. It made good sense when changing steering boxes, no disruption inside the car, change the box in minutes, you could almost mount the box where ever it suited without having to design the engine bay around it, not to mention being able to have the steering wheel directly in front the driver, guess well never know how things were thought out back then.
Still bidding by the way,
Steve