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Clay Bar

Started by Rick Biarritz, October 02, 2009, 11:02:52 AM

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Rick Biarritz

Several people have very enthusiastically recommended the clay bar process to me.  It's supposed to be fabulous!  What say y'all?  I see by reading about it that the clay bar does NOT beautify by itself; it merely preps the surface for beautifying.  Can it really make that much of a difference?

Tom Magdaleno

    There is an easy way to tell if it will make a difference.  Run your hand across the paint and see if you feel any bumps.  If you do this on your daily driver I can guarantee you will feel some bumps even on a freshly washed car.  The bumps are bits of sap, tar, road grime or over-spray.  When the light hits these bumps it doesn’t reflect as evenly and your car does not look as shiny.  With the clay bar you remove these bumps and the car will appear more shiny.
I used it on my daily driver after I got clear coat over-spray all over it from painting my truck.  On a garaged, rarely driven show car it may not make that much difference since it is rarely exposed to the elements, but check to see. 
Tom
'38 Cadillac V16
'71 Buick Riviera
'65 Chevy Truck
'56 Packard Super Clipper

Otto Skorzeny

Once you use one, you'll never want to detail your car without one again. You'll be amazed at all the crud that's embedded in your "clean" paint job.

After you use it the paint finish will feel so slippery smooth you would think that it had been waxed.
fward

Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for YOURSELF

HUGE VENDOR LIST CLICK HERE

Chris Conklin

The invention of the clay bar is proof that God drives a Cadillac. I just know I'm gonna offend somebody with that one, sorry.

Great stuff. It does make a big difference. But just like a fine grade machine polish, it is for paint that is pretty decent to begin with.
Chris Conklin

The Tassie Devil(le)

Does it have to be a specially made Clay Bar? or can any Modelling Clay be used?

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Carfreak

Instead of just your bare hand, get a thin sandwich bag and use that to feel a painted surface - the 'drag' is the contaminants. 

In addition to painted surfaces, you can also use a clay bar on glass.  Great after a long drive that accumulated lots of bugs that just don't want to wash off.

I've heard about a new type, synthetic 'clay bar' that doesn't capture & retain the particles that it removes from the surfaces.  I've yet to use one but anxious to give it a try.

Important note, if you drop your clay bar on the ground, THROW IT OUT! 
Enjoy life - it has an expiration date.

marty55cdv

I agree with Otto and Tom, the kit is worth every penny. I have used this method on several cars  before I polished and waxed etc. The difference is amazing in look and feel !!  Just remember to use plenty of spray to avoid scratching the surface.
Marty Smith
  CLC #22760
41 60 Special http://bit.ly/1Wm0GvT
55 CDV http://bit.ly/1G933IY
56 Fleetwood
1958 Extended Deck http://bit.ly/1NPYhGC
1959 Fleetwood  http://bit.ly/1OFsrOE
1960 Series 62 Coupe
1960 Sedan DeVille  4 window Flattop
63 Fleetwood http://bit.ly/1iSz17J
1964 Eldorado http://bit.ly/1Wm17GA  (Living in California now)
1988 EBC http://bit.ly/1iSACKz

Tom Magdaleno

True, you have to use lubricant.  I believe soap and water in a spray bottle makes a good cheap alternative to the expensive spray you are "supposed" to use.
Tom
'38 Cadillac V16
'71 Buick Riviera
'65 Chevy Truck
'56 Packard Super Clipper

D.Yaros

You will be amazed at the results.  This statement from a skeptic, like you.  I used it for the first time on my Olds, which is black.  During the process the surface becomes very smooth and slippery; ergo the warnings about dropping the bar.  By the time I was done    detailing the car, (which in my case was a 6-step process: wash, wash, clay, clean, glaze and seal) you could use any surface to shave!

Yes, claying is well worth the effort.
Dave Yaros
CLC #25195
55 Coupe de Ville
92 Allante
62 Olds  

You will find me on the web @:
http://GDYNets.atwebpages.com  -Dave's Den
http://graylady.atwebpages.com -'55 CDV site
http://www.freewebs.com/jeandaveyaros  -Saved 62 (Oldsmobile) Web Site
The home of Car Collector Chronicles.  A  monthly GDYNets newsletter focusing on classic car collecting.
http://www.scribd.com/D_Yaros/

Bill Podany #19567

I was indeed a sceptic; however, I have since learned to use the claying process replacing the polisihing process prior to waxing.  My cars are CCCA Classics and CLC Senior winners; I perform all the detailing myself.  I use both Griot's and Maguire's clay and lubricant, and then I wax with Carnauba.  Both processes are enhanced using an orbiter polishing device; mine is powered by compressed air and it works great.  For years, I feared using a electric or air powered polisher; now I am addicted to using it in conjunction with claying and waxing.    My cars are clear coated, and they rarely need polishing, which diminishes the paint thichness, which claying does not.  Learn to be skillful in its application, and you will be very happy.  I even clay smaller portions of a car where the surface in not silky smooth to the touch, and then use an easy hand rub spray wax for a quick fix. 

Bill Podany
Knoxville, TN 
1941 60 Special Fleetwood
1955 Eldorado

Chris Conklin

I'll second Bill for Griot's clay. It's a pretty generous amount compared to brands I've purchased in retail stores.
Chris Conklin