1938 cadillac rear brakes

[enrique]

hi Cadillac owners I have a 1938 cadillac 90 and I was trying to remove the rear drums and I could not,  is there a trick to it.  It looked like it had a locking washer on the drum and I could not remove it. I'm also having trouble with my car locking the wheels after driving in traffic for about 4 miles any suggestions would be appreciated.

[Steve Passmore]

You have to "pull" the rear drums off with a special puller, If you haven't got one then you really cant do it without.  There are two types, one with a hammer and screw action, and the other with an hydraulic action. The locking washer is just for the nut. This is one type.

[Jim Stamper]

     Enrique;

     In the picture Steve has the big nut loosened, but not taken completely off. This helps hold the puller in place by giving a secure place for the main screw while assembling the rest of the puller. Since it is a tapered shaft, as soon as the drum pops loose it can easily be removed. Just remove the nut the rest of the way and pull it off.

[Mark Lowery]

hi Cadillac owners I have a 1938 cadillac 90 and I was trying to remove the rear drums and I could not,  is there a trick to it.  It looked like it had a locking washer on the drum and I could not remove it. I'm also having trouble with my car locking the wheels after driving in traffic for about 4 miles any suggestions would be appreciated.

Don't know specifically about the model 90 ( I have a 37 LaSalle), but want to comment on the puller that you see in Steve Passmore's post;  That may not be availble Stateside, but what is available is the OTC model #7394.  With this particular puller, you turn the center screw which bears on the end of the axle by pounding on a "dogbone" fitting that fits over a hex on the end of the screw. It comes w/ 3 legs, but even the manufacture recommends that you use 5 legs when pulling Cadillac  Drums.  I looked around and found the best price from an outfit in Ohio called SJDiscount Tools.  You may also be able to rent such a puller locally.  The real secret however is a penetrating oil called "Kroil".  If you can't find it locally (try a Harley shop or a Marine supply house), then you can order it directly from Kano Laboratories in Nashville.  I used the aerosol version, AeroKroil.  When the recalcitrant drum finally popped off, the Kroil had truly penetrated the entire length of the tapered matting surface, some 3" in length!  I had tried everything (CRC Screw loose, liquid wrench and PJ
Blaster) to no avail.  Don't like heating a part like this hub for fear of changing the metal characteristics, and once I had a hub off, I realized the futility as the hub matting surface extends so far into the housing.  I think the only applicability of heat in this context is to help to get the penetrant into the interface.
That said, perhaps heat the hub and then after all open flame is extinguished, spray the penetrant.  You might also try spraying from the drain hole on the backside of the backing plate mounting flange.  This of course only if you'll be getting new shoes which is probably a good idea given the problems you've noted.

Mark Lowery, CLC #25216

[Steve Passmore]

Mark,. I just wanted to make a point that there were many types of pullers out there, The one I pictured was in fact taken stateside (snitched off this forum from a previous post) The Dog Bone type is available here. Personally I prefer to use the hydraulic type.
This subject has been well covered before.

[mark Lowery]

Mark,. I just wanted to make a point that there were many types of pullers out there, The one I pictured was in fact taken stateside (snitched off this forum from a previous post) The Dog Bone type is available here. Personally I prefer to use the hydraulic type.
This subject has been well covered before.

Steve,
Point well taken.  I was thinking the puller in your photo was the German built one that was in the earlier discussions.  I stand corrected; but what then is the brand of that puller? The type of puller I was advocating is readily available through NAPA Auto parts, but the price is $210 and that is for the basic model w/ 3 legs.  So, if Enrique can not find it for rent, the route I suggested may be the most economical.

Mark Lowery, CLC #25216

[35-709]

Not familiar with '38 brakes but if they are like any other hydraulic brakes I AM familiar with check the brake hoses.  With age they deteriorate and swell internally and close off allowing fluid to pass through when braking because of the force of the brake master cylinder but will not let fluid return thus keeping the brake on.  The best way to get them to release is to crack open the wheel cylinder bleeder momentarily to relieve the pressure.  It could also be in the master cylinder itself, had a bad master cylinder in a Harley that would do that on the rear brake.
Geoff N. 

[Steve Passmore]

I have 4 rear drum pullers and a friend 2 miles away has another 2, we have purchased all these over the years from Auto Jumbles. Some are very old and heavy but I find these the most effective especially the hydraulic type. one is a double action with a reputed 50 ton compound pull.    I have sometimes travelled miles to help old car owners here pull their rear drums off. This setup is not confined to just Cadillac, but all this is easy for me to say in a small Island.  Is there no club member near Enrique that could help him out??

[Ty]

I guess I was lucky. A friend lent me a three prong puller yesterday but it would not align with 6 on 6 and I could not use it. Another friend had suggested that I take a tire off wheel , mount it using a full set of lug nuts, and "tap" it off with a hammer. It worked on both wheels!
The trick is to mount it with a full set of lug nuts, squirt penetrating oil deep into the key grove. Use a hammer to strike the inside of the rim gently many times as you rotate the wheel. DO NOT hammer the BEAD of the wheel. Strike the inner ridge near the center of the wheel that would be covered by the innertube.
It worked for me but I'm sure it depends on the condition of your hubs.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330

[Steve Passmore]

I think you were incredibly lucky there Ty, you run a high risk of putting the wheel out of true, as you say, it depends on the condition of the taper. Steve

[Ty]

Hello Steve,
I know. That is why I suggested "Tap" with a hammer as you rotate the wheel, and did not mention the use of a sledge hammer ha, ha. I think it is safe "tapping" the inside under where the innertube would seat as you rotate the wheel. I think tapping just loosens any rust attachment. Both of mine started moving off right away. But, I would not want anyone to be aggressive and ruin their wheel. I can only say with a little penetrating oil on the key it works for me.
Ty
CLC22330

[Enrique]

Thanks Steve and Ty for the advise and the picture I will look for the tool which I can also use on my 52 Plymouth,  I really appreciate the info.