Pertronix vs breakerless se???

[Steve W]

Thinking about changing from points to:

1. Breakerless SE from Lectric Limited (www.lectriclimited.com)
Or
2. Pertronix Ignitor (www.pertronix.com)
Or
3. Pertronix Ignitor II
4. Pertonix Ignitor III

I should mention that I don't really care if it looks stock or not, my car is a daily driver, not a show car. I just want my car to be dependable and have good performance...and, knowing my limits as a mechanic, it has to be relatively easy to install. And, knowing my finances, it has to be relatively inexpensive.

SO.....opinions, observations, reviews...anyone?

[Otto Skorzeny]

Here's another possibility to throw into the mix.

http://davessmallbodyheis.com/

I drive a '56 as my only car for the last 8 years. I take it on 1000+ mile trips at least once a year and lots of shorter trips. It still has points andI have never had any trouble at all and I don't have any complaints about lack of power, hard starting or whatever.

The key to any system is keeping all the components in top working order at all times. I tune up the points once a year in the fall and change them if necessary. So far, so good.

So if finances are crucial, just keep your points and adjust them properly. One good thing about electronic systems is that the dwell angle never changes during use.

[TJ Hopland]

Any option is going to require you to have a timing light.   Before you do anything take some base readings of where things are now.  Write the numbers down along with details like with vacuum hooked up and not.   

Pertonix is the most popular of those type of conversions.  The 1 has been around the longest and has a solid rep.  2 is more recent and 3 is fairly new.  Heard some say the 2 is not as reliable as the 1.   I have not heard much about the 3.  The multispark does make a difference at idle.  I have a MSD6 on one engine and thats one of the features of those boxes. 

Being that you have a 68 yet another option.  Get a stock HEI from a 75-80.  500 and 425 used the same physical dizzy.  Only downside is due to the larger diameter of the cap I have read that the inner belt of the AC/PS can rub on the cap.   If you dont still have the AC its not an issue.  If you have to buy the parts new it cost as much as any other option but if you find them used it can be the least expensive. 

If you have basic electronic skills there is a system I have used on several small engines and a tractor with great success.   Good part is the dizzy stays 100% stock.  This system goes inline between the dizzy and coil and can easily be bypassed to return to the stock system.   Only downside is it takes some basic skills and fab work.    Just found the link is dead so I will have to find my copy.  It uses a HEI module and some radio shack parts.   Worst case cost is about $60.   If anyone is interested send me an email.

 

[kelly]

I have the Pertonics Igniter I on my "57, and have nothing but good outcomes.  I have also installed the Ignitor on a '77 MGB and '77 Porsche 911 with fine outcomes.  I'm not a fan of points, and the Pertronics unit makes things work without molesting the original gear.  Cost is about $100, so I would say worth the try to smooth out the lumps.
Kelly

[Sweede64]

When i installed petronix in my -61 the idle went up 150rpm and it starts real easy, not that it was hard to start with points but it was a notisiable different.

[TJ Hopland]

The 68 cad is the same dizzy internals as the other GM v8's so you do have plenty of options.  Petronix does by far have the most applications.  They literally have hundreds of listings.  They have kits for some really oddball stuff.

[TonyZappone #2624]

The Petronix unit has been in my 58 convert since 2002.  After it was installed, I drove to the national meet in Michigan.  It is true, I suppose if points were addressed once a year, lubed, set and/or replaced all would be well.  But when you have more than one car, lubrication points dry out, things don't get addressed, etc.  I also have it in my 47 convert.  Believe me, in the last 45 years, good old breaker points have had me hitchhiking home from an old car journey more than anything.

[austingta]

Believe me, in the last 45 years, good old breaker points have had me hitchhiking home from an old car journey more than anything.

It's interesting you say that. In my circles, lots of people say to keep a uniset in the glove box for when the Pertronix (or whatever) breaks down. IMHO, points and condenser is the most reliable system out there, but certainly not the most maintenance free.

[TonyZappone #2624]

I agree.  I don't keep mine in the glove box, I keep them in the trunk.

[Coupe]

There have been many discussions about breakerless conversions over the years. Many responders have indicated they have a back-up in the trunk or glove box. I do not recall many negative comments. How many have had to use the back-up?

I have had a Pertronix set up in my '57 for over 7000 miles. I had a spare distributor in the trunk with new points and condenser installed. Never had to use it. It now sits on a shelf in my shop most of the time.

[TJ Hopland]

Points work well and are fairly predictable. They hardly ever suddenly fail without warning.  My issue with them nowadays is 90% of the ones made today appear to be crap.  The ones I have used and had trouble with have been for as common of an application as you could get today.  Just not enough demand for anyone to make a top quality product anymore.   I had points on 4 engines till the last year or so when I finally got sick of constantly messing with them.  Most cases I was digging in the garbage for the point sets I removed when the replacements were failing after a few hours of operation.  Good thing I dont empty my shop trash very often.  3 of those 4 engines have a home brew conversion on them running off older well used point sets and I am very happy so far.  I am going to be very curious to see if these engine are going to fire up after being stored over the winter.  On one other engine that has a MSD box triggering off points I have to give them a quick cleaning with a dollar bill if it sits for a few weeks without running.   Those are also new points that I suspect are crap, wish I had the old set for that engine.   

Electronic systems work better than points ever did right up to the time they fail completely often without warning. Unlike mechanical things there are no quick fixes to limp home.   

This is true of most modern products.  Electronics make them better, faster, and cheaper than ever thought possible, right up to the time they quit.   It just depends on your application.   Some cases medium performance is and less chance of failure is a better fit than max performance and even a slight chance of total failure.   

[Steve W]

Great feedback guys...good "points" to ponder!

So, TJ...who makes the "good" points? Seems like even if I DO change over to Pertronix or Breakerless, I'd better have my points as a backup, just in case.

[Otto Skorzeny]

I buy NOS points whenever I see them on ebay.

[bill henry]

I have had good luck with the Blue Streak brand Drive my 70 on 1000 mile vacations every year and change points about every 5th year

[TJ Hopland]

Standard brand Blue Streak used to be good but I think they have gone through a few sales and mergers so they are not what they used to be. I have not been able to find them lately, not sure if the name changed or if my typical stores just dont carry them. The better sets seem to just be better constructed overall and also usually have a wick for lubrication. I think they also have a hole in the contact.  Look at the way the contacts contact each other .  Most of the ones you get now days they dont even close squarely.  Most of them the arm sort of flexes around so the contact lands in different places.  The plastic part that rides on the cam wears quickly.  Its hard to tell by looking but after you get some use on them you see that the plating is really thin so some areas wear quickly and others corrode.  Spring tension is not consistent so either they tend to float at high speeds or have too much tension and wear extra quick.  If they pick the wrong material and the tension is too great it can wear the cam, I have seen that on some smaller engines.

I have read that in most cases the timing changes at least slightly with the conversion so be sure to take base readings with a timing light before you start the swap.  That way you can be sure to get it back where it was after the conversion.