Wheel Cylinder Leak. Updated with a photo.

[Rick Biarritz]

Found some sort of fluid under my left, rear tire.  Presume that's a brake fluid leak.  Wheel cylinder?  I changed all 4 WCs on my 69 Dodge Polara and that was pretty easy.  What about on my 83 Eldo?  Can I do this?  Is it likely a wheel cylinder?  Thanks, all. 

[Tod- NTCLC]

I think you will find that your car has 4 wheel disc brakes (I know that in 1980 4 wheel disc was standard on the Eldorado).  Check a couple of things - the last time I had a spot of fluid near one of the rear wheels, I thought like you that it was time for a caliper replacement, but I was wrong:

Check your shocks - you may have lost a seal that is starting to drip.  The car may still be at the correct height, but a dripping seal means the you need to start looking for replacements.

Check your brake lines - both steel and rubber - make sure that they are clean and dry.

Look at the caliper - make sure the leak isn't near the bleeder valve (not likely).

If indeed the leak is the caliper seal, then you can either get a kit, or pick up a re-built caliper at most parts stores - the core charges are pretty high for these rear-wheel calipers since some modders are using them in many applications.

Replacement is not a complicated job, but it does take a little longer than the front calipers since there is the matter of the emergency brake adjustment, and the longer time to bleed the lines, but it is all fairly easy.

If you do happen to have rear drums, then the process will be almost identical to replacing the wheel cylinder on the Dodge.

Let us know what you find.

[Rick Biarritz]

I am going to put the car up on stands here in a few hours.  About these shocks...  The car looks to be leaning a bit to the left, the same side the leak is on.  Could this be the shock?  Don't know much about shocks, and I didn't know there was liquid involved.  Let me know what to look for once I get the car up in the air.  Thanks. 

[Dave Shepherd]

Pretty basic, look for fluid around the brake line and caliper, and look for fluid at the lower tube portion of the shock.

[Rick Biarritz]

Okay, I have traced the leak.  See the photo.  It leaks where the line goes into the caliper.  I tightened the line, but I still get a drop of fluid in less than half an hour -- see the drop on the left side of the fitting.  The novice in me does not know which is leaking.  Is it the line or is it the caliper?  Thanks. 

[Brett Cottel]

Try spraying it carb cleaner, brush it clean, hit it with compressed air and then look for the exact source of the leak.....hard to tell with the road grime on it. HTH
Brett

[Rick Biarritz]

I shall do that now.  Thanks. 

[TJ Hopland]

The steel line should be a flare fitting into that block.   The block should be held to the caliper with a 'banjo' (hollow) bolt.  There should be a copper washer between the head of the bolt and the block and then another one between the block and the caliper. These washers are available in the HELP! line at most parts stores.  IIRC they come in a small universal kit with a few size options. 

[Tod- NTCLC]

Yes, clean everything up with some solvent (BrakeKleen/Carb cleaner/etc.).  Another place that these calipers will leak is where the rod for the emergency brake actuator attaches - there is a nylon washer that goes between the e-brake actuator arm and the caliper, where the threaded shaft comes out of the caliper - pay close attention to this area once you get things cleaned up.

First look indicates that your leak is around the area where the line goes into the block, but it will be hard to tell until everything is clean and dry.

[Glen]

When I have a leak like this it is normally the flare that has cracked from being over tightened.  If that is the case you need to cut the end off and re-flare it, if you have enough tubing to do that.  Be sure to do a double flare. 

If not then you have to replace the whole tubing. 

Glen

[Otto Skorzeny]

Did you ever figure out what the burning rubber smell was coming from?

[Rick Biarritz]

Did you ever figure out what the burning rubber smell was coming from?

No, not yet.  I've checked everything suggested.  Haven't been on a long trip, though.  That's when I get the smell. 

[Rick Biarritz]

When I have a leak like this it is normally the flare that has cracked from being over tightened.  If that is the case you need to cut the end off and re-flare it, if you have enough tubing to do that.  Be sure to do a double flare. 

If not then you have to replace the whole tubing. 

Glen

Wouldn't it be easier to replace the whole thing, especially as I don't have the tools for flaring?  That section of tubing is only about 18 inches long, and is easily accessible.  Thanks.   

[Guidematic]

 
If you are not comfortable with flaring, don't do it. Lines are available, however, they rarely are the exact length you need. I always say they are 1" too short or 9" too long.

However, judging from the picture, with all the brake fluid all over, I doubt it's the line. They rarely just start leaking unless they are damaged or corroded.

The earlier suggestion for cleaning it all off and then looking to see where the leak is coming from is a good one. You can do that and have someone start the engine, and apply the brake while you watch. You should be able to see where the leak originates.

You don't want to go through the trouble of replacing the line, only to find out it still leaks.

The old adage of measure twice, cut once applies to mechanics. Diagnose twice, repair once.

Mike

[Tod- NTCLC]

Yes - replacing the brake line is simple and quick - most auto parts stores will carry a supply of various lengths of brake lines, already flared and with the fittings - cost - about 4.00 - 5.00 bucks.  I am not so great with double-flares, so I would never consider doing my own double-flares on a brake line. 

But, like Mike has suggested - get it cleaned up first so you know where the leak is.

[Glen]

Wouldn't it be easier to replace the whole thing, especially as I don't have the tools for flaring?  That section of tubing is only about 18 inches long, and is easily accessible.  Thanks.   

Yes it would be easier, however if you buy from the auto parts store you get a straight piece that you have to bend to fit.  Be careful not to kink the tubing. 

If some one sells a pre formed piece that would be the easiest way to go.  Otto’s list can tell you who might sell pre formed brake lines. 

But do find the source of the leak first.  Others have suggested how to do that. 

I don’t have any trouble making a double flare.  As with anything the right tool makes it easy. 

Glen