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1958 Cadillac Problem, need Help

Started by Vsixteen, March 25, 2010, 10:42:42 AM

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Vsixteen

Hi
I have a 58 Cadillac that starts up and idles for a few seconds then dies, I believe the problem is electrical related as I put the carb from my other 58 on it and the carb has never had any issues on the other car.This car also has a new fuel pump and filter on it, so fuel does not seem to be the problem.

My question is that could this be a condensor problem or a weak coil problem? I also changed the points and rotor and the timing is dead on.

Any ideas what to look at next?

Thanks

steve

1958 Coupe De Ville
1958 Sedan De Ville
1958 Convertible
1959 Convertible CLC Senior & AACA Senior

David King (kz78hy)

Sure sounds like lack of fuel.  Could the fuel lines be blocked with debris from the tank?  Does the car still have the glass sight bowl with filter?  Full of fuel, sediment on the bottom?

My guesses so far

David
David King
CLC 22014  (life)
1958 Eldorado Brougham 615
1959 Eldorado Brougham 56- sold
1960 Eldorado Brougham 83- sold
1998 Deville d'Elegance
1955 Eldorado #277
1964 Studebaker Commander
2012 Volt
CLCMRC benefactor 197

Director and Founder, Eldorado Brougham Chapter
Past President, Motor City Region

Rare Parts brand suspension parts Retailer via Keep'em Running Automotive

"Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364

If the car will consistently start and then dies, the first thing I might look for is a bad resistor in the coil circuit.  When the starter is energized the coil is fed a full 12 volts directly form the contact on the starter solenoid.  When the key is released, voltage to the coil goes through the resistor.
To check this, run a 12 volt line directly to the coil and after the car starts, see if it continues to run.  If it does so, the resistor is the problem.  Do not leave the bypass jumper on for too long as the coil will be overheated.
Let us know.
Greg
Cadillac Kid-Greg Surfas
Director Modified Chapter CLC
CLC #15364
66 Coupe deVille (now gone to the UK)
72 Eldo Cpe  (now cruising the sands in Quatar)
73 Coupe deVille
75 Coupe deElegance
76 Coupe deVille
79 Coupe de ville with "Paris" (pick up) option and 472 motor
514 inch motor now in '73-

John Morris #23947

I had the same problem. Had a beautiful running 58 motor/trans that I sold to Mr. Glenburn in BC. Started right up, purred, choke perfect. Ran for 2 minutes then died. Always started right up like new but would always conk out. Ron, I hope you figured that one out.
71 Olds 98 LS, 66 Fairlane 500 XL Convertible, 55 Packard Clipper Super, 58 Edsel Ranger, 72 Cheyenne Super, many 49-60 parts cars, abandoned "House Of Doom" full of 49-60 parts. Huge piles of engine parts, brackets, tin, Hydramatic & Jetaway parts,  thousands of stainless moldings, dozens of perfect sedan doors.

Don Boshara #594

My 66 Mustang did the same thing. Turned out to be the condenser.
1940 Sixty Special
1966 Mustang Cpe

Vsixteen

Thanks for the replies.

I changed the condensor and it did not improve. I also changed the ballast resistor, but I still have a weak spark. Not sure what else to check, any ideas? 

Does the ballast resistor always read about twelve volts when it is tested on the bench? I thought it was supposed to drop the voltage to about 8 volts on one side, when it is connected in the car does it get additional resistance from the points?

Thanks

Steve
1958 Coupe De Ville
1958 Sedan De Ville
1958 Convertible
1959 Convertible CLC Senior & AACA Senior

J. Gomez

Quote from: Vsixteen on March 30, 2010, 05:58:13 PM
Thanks for the replies.

I changed the condensor and it did not improve. I also changed the ballast resistor, but I still have a weak spark. Not sure what else to check, any ideas? 

Does the ballast resistor always read about twelve volts when it is tested on the bench? I thought it was supposed to drop the voltage to about 8 volts on one side, when it is connected in the car does it get additional resistance from the points?

Thanks

Steve

Steve,

Not to be nosy but when you refer to low spark (meaning below the normal range of 40K-30K) that would point out to a defective ignition system component, and you have to test and trouble shoot each.

The resistor should drop the voltage at the coil to about 9V DC, the only time a 12V is at the coil is when the starter is engaged placing a direct 12V on the yellow wire to the coil.
Just for grins have you check the connections and correct polarity at the coil? Also, have you replace the coil just to be safe? Either or could be the cause for the engine to stalled.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

Glen

Keep in mind that if the points are open there is no current flow through the ballast resistor and no voltage drop.  Meaning there will be 12 volts on the coil if you measure to ground. 

Measure both sides of the coil to ground.  If you have 12 volts on the point’s side the points are open.  When the points are closed you will have 0 volts. 

Glen
Glen Houlton CLC #727 
CLCMRC benefactor #104

Art Woody

Hook a jug of gas to the line going into the carb. Hold it high. Have someone start it, eliminate a lot of "stuff". Art Woody