Ouch Broken carb!

[Brett Cottel]

well, unfortunately, my helper was tightening the bolts on the Rochester carb and the ear snapped off the mounting plate. What do you think I should do at this point? Replace the entire carb or fix what I have. We did rebuild the unit but I really want the car to be reliable etc. Anyone thrown a new style carb on their 331 with good results? Am I ruining the authenticity? Anyone want to sell the base to this carb?



 

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Firstly sack the helper, and withhold his Salary, and check the tightness of every other bolt, nut and screw that he had tightened.

But, seriously, I would be looking for another base to replace the broken one.   A good welder could repair it by  Bronzing it back together, but it would always look like it was repaired, and could possibly fracture again in the future.

Bruce.

[Otto Skorzeny]

JB Weld?

[bill henry]

is it pot metal(zinc) or aluminum ? if it is aluminum you can have it Heli-arced and the have the base machined flat again.I did this on an old Holley double pumper base. worked great.

[Philippe M. Ruel]

is it pot metal(zinc) or aluminum ?

Rochester 4GCs bowl is pot metal, but their base (what is broken here) is cast iron. The front "ears" next to exhaust gas passage are quite sensible to corrosion, then breakage.

It happened to my carb about 10 years ago : the local specialist I asked told me that nothing would hold long enough, because fastening nut on stud creates strain at this place.
I was fortunate enough to find a complete rebuilt 4GC at a reasonable cost - including a core charge, but sending a core from Europe would be useless anyway.

[bill henry]

Rochester 4GCs bowl is pot metal, but their base (what is broken here) is cast iron. The front "ears" next to exhaust gas passage are quite sensible to corrosion, then breakage

A good welder can weld this with a cast iron rod and it will hold  but not many welders are familiar with the technique shop around for an experianed welder!

[J. Gomez]

Brett,

I would second on Philippe’s comments the only alternative is to shop for a new base. That particular corner would need to withstand two things the torque of about 20’lb and the heat from the exhaust. It does not look like you have enough meat on the piece to additional support for any type of welding.

PS/hint On your next one verified that both matting faces are as flat as possible to each other before final torque.

Good luck..!

[Brett Cottel]

is it pot metal(zinc) or aluminum ? if it is aluminum you can have it Heli-arced and the have the base machined flat again.I did this on an old Holley double pumper base. worked great.

Looks Pot metal!  But others say it is cast iron.....

[Otto Skorzeny]

Brett,

A magnet will stick to cast iron but will generally have little or no attraction to pot metal.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

It is a Cast Iron piece, and Bronzing will rescue it, BUT, the edges have to be totally clean, "Vee'd" and done properly, without cleaning off the excess filling, as it will break again.

Bruce.

PS.   But, I am sure that a replacement part can be found a lot easier.

[Joe]

I guess I shouldn't have replied to this post in this manner.
#1----I never got a reply from the intended recipient; no big deal he probably has his issue resolved
#2---- Because of putting an email address out here, I'm getting Spammed to death!

Mr. Administrator.....Is there a way I can remove my reply?  It wasn't my posting, just a reply.   Thanks in advance....

Initial reply removed as requested.

Bruce.