41 caddy knowledge

[ett41caddy]

Im looking for some with a passion and knowledge for questions about my 41 coupe convertible?
engine and electrical to start.
your support is appreciated

[Otto Skorzeny]

Fire away. There are plenty of people on this forum who specialize in that model.

Start by posting all the information on the data tag under the hood.

[Jeff Maltby 4194]

Doug Houston is your Man of the Hour here.

[ett41caddy]

Thanks for the quick reply - the caddy was restored in the early eighty's and was hardly to never used. I had the caddy serviced to get it running and drivable from its long storage time since 1982, it seems to run just OK in my opinion. One unfortunate problem it had was a bent or frozen valve on #6 cylinder, I had that replaced and wa informed that the compression in all cylinders were adequate. I can here a clacking noise from that repaired area that is loud and faint depending on the RPM? The caddy struggles to accelerate in neutral and chokes frequently when accelerating in 2nd gear. As I mentioned earlier, a complete service was done. another question is the blinkers, i cant seem to keep the inline fuze from blowing? I appreciate any and all advise

[Otto Skorzeny]

Was the carb rebuilt during your service? If not it may have a lot of varnish and gunk clogging up the jets, etc. You may try buying some carb cleaner to de-gunkify it. (that's a technical term by the way).

Follow the directions on the can. Some fuel system cleaner in the tank might be in order as well since there may be varnish wherever old gas was sitting. Little particles might be clogging things up for you.

[Doug Houston]

Sounds to me like a fuel (starving) problem. When a car is taken out of long storage, probably the first thing that needs attention is the fuel system, from  tank to cylinder. I've always rebuilt the fuel pump, because it's going to fail, either immediately, or not long after. Someone has already talked about varnishes in the carburetor, so have it rebuilt.

The tapping, or clacking noise could be the lifter at the valve that was replaced. The mechanic should have assured that it was freed and working when he re-assembled the engine. The noise may go away, but if not, the lifter could need to be replaced.

[Misfit]

An old trick for sticky lifters in any engine was a quart of Marvel Mysery Oil added to the crankcase about 50-100 miles before changing the oil.

That stuff works wonders in an engine that has sat up for years.

Fins

[ett41caddy]

good information - the carb was soaked and rebuilt, the tank was dropped and cleaned, i've ran mystery oil, lead additive, premium fuel, however I don't get the opportunity to drive it much, maybe 75 miles since I got it back. The fuel pump was replaced with and old rebuilt job that was never installed till recently, any other suggestions? I agree with the lifter advise, i hope it works its way out. any suggestions on the blinker?

[35-709]

That old, rebuilt fuel pump may not last too long with today's "modern" ethanol laced gasolines if it was rebuilt with an old type diaphragm.  I would recommend getting the fuel pump you took off the car rebuilt or buy a recently rebuilt one that has a diaphragm that is more compatible with the gasoline we have to deal with today and have it for a spare.

Are you sure the timing is set correctly?
Geoff N.

[ett41caddy]

I thought about the fuel pump scenario - that one I put on it to get it running must have been purchased at the Hershey auction many years ago and never installed till recently, Im sure you guys know where I can look for another one? I have a core to exchange? The timing should have been set correctly, The distributor has duel points and was taken out of the car and set up (scoped?). Any tricks on how to check the timing with out a light? What is the correct setting for the timing anyway?

[Otto Skorzeny]

Hi ett,

Click on the link in my signature and you will find a long list of Cadillac parts vendors.

For all I know your pump may be available at NAPA or Autozone like most of the 50s  Cads. Check locally first. If not, there are a few rebuilders on the list. Arthur Gould is one.

Do you have a shop manual? If not buy one. In the meantime you can view it online at the Modified Cadillac Website.

http://www.modifiedcadillac.org/documents/Shop_Manuals_and_Illus_Catalogs/

[harry s]

Another thing to check on the replaced valve is the stem to cam bottom clearance. That distance should be exactly 3". If it is more than that you will have some chatter.

[ett41caddy]

I can only hope that the valve was installed the correct length, the mechanic did mention he spent alt of time measuring and adjusting, I would to find another source in SW FL to have for service. thanks for the tip on the fuel pump, would you think a local auto parts store may have a flasher that would work on the caddy? maybe the 8 volt conversion could be causing the blinker hassle or a bad flasher? whata you think?

[Bob Hoffmann CLC#96]

Hi,
Looks like you're getting lots of help.
Don't forget to post your data plate info as Forrest suggested.
Bob

[35-709]

In my opinion the 8 volt conversion will be a constant source of niggling little problems with all of the 6 volt equipment in the car --- bulbs, flashers, any electric gauges, radio(?), heater motor, you name it.  Anything designed to run on 6 volts will have a shortened life.  Go back to 6 volts and check every ground wire attachment on the car for bright and clean and tight, you have a positive ground system on that car, or you SHOULD.  There is no reason the electrical system should not perform well on the 6 volt system it was designed and built with if every connection is clean and tight as it should be.  If the car's wiring is not up to snuff don't count on an 8 volt conversion to solve your problems, it will only bring more.  If your directionals keep blowing fuses it sounds like a short somewhere, a fuse with the incorrect amperage rating (make sure you have the CORRECT fuse, not just a bigger one), bad switch, possibly even that 8 volt system. 
Geoff N.     

[ett41caddy]

Thanks for the advise on the 8 volt system, I haven't had the opportunity to check the radio yet cause I need to instal an antenna. I recently picked up a shop manual.  I appreciate all the help, advise and replies. I wont be able to list the information on the production plate for a few weeks, the 41 is kept at another location other than where i live and work.

[35-709]

I definitely would NOT turn that radio on with 8 volts to it.  Wouldn't surprise me if someone already has if the car was converted before you bought it.  There are places that repair old auto radios, check in Hemmings Motor News.  This is a 70 year old car, it will require tinkering, fixing, adjusting, maintenance, etc. on pretty much a regular basis.  Not to discourage you but, a reality check, if you cannot for one reason or another do simple things to your car like check and set the timing, properly adjust the carburetor, and do other relatively simple mechanical tasks on the car, you are going to have to have some deep pockets and a mechanic familiar with that vintage car.  Do yourself and your mechanic a favor and get a Shop Manual for that car if you have not already done so.  Original Shop Manuals and reprints are relatively easy to find on eBay Motors and through Hemmings Motor News, I picked up a rare 42 Shop Manual on eBay.   Hemmings is available at most any larger magazine/book store.  Advice here is free, but a Shop Manual is almost essential even with the free advice.       
Geoff N.

[Otto Skorzeny]

Advice here is free, but a Shop Manual is almost essential even with the free advice. 

It is? Damn! I was wondering I haven't received my royalty payment yet.