News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

removing rear brake drums on 32 355B Brake linings

Started by Don Pettee, July 10, 2010, 09:22:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Don Pettee

I have removed the rear wheel, the large nut and locking washer and two 9/16 bolts on the drum itself.  I have a very large puller at the lip of the drum just beyond the wheel studs and am using an 18" breaker bar on the puller without sucess.  I can see there is a keyway on the hub but there is no way to remove the key.  Am I missing something? I am concered that I could break the drum if I use a larger breaker bar.
Anyone that has removed these drums please advise.

I have inspected the front linings and find 2/3 of the top (floating shoe) lining rivets are starting to wear on the drum.  The bottom lining is fine.  Can I just replace the top lining or will that cause adjustment problems.  The original thickness of 3/16" is still there on the bottom.

Does anyone have any extra linings or a  source for these linings? 

I took the car out on the road today and found it seems to run effortlessly up to 50 MPH.  The temperature is right on the mark between cold and normal and did not vary from start to finish.  When I parked and shut it off the temp rose about 1/4" on the gauge indicating that the gauge is working.  I do not have a thermostat in the car.  Can anyone tell me how there 32 or 33 performs on the road, ie speed and temp?

I was reluctant to push it beyond 50 because this is the first time the car has been driven since 1979 and it did sound like it was pushing the gearing.  I would like to know how fast others drive these V8 models?

Don Pettee
ps My cars are at www.photobucket.com   username  donpet   password  1928buick
Don Pettee CLC #20471

harry s

Don, I'm not sure if the '32 is the same as a '30. On the '30 the hub attaches to the brake drum with 6 bolts and is a taper fit to the axle with a keyway. once you remove the 6 bolts and large axle nut the hub will come off with the help of a puller. Then there is a large nut which holds the drum in place at the bearing, which can be removed and lubricated the same as the front bearings. Good luck.
Harry Scott 4195
1941 6733
1948 6267X
2011 DTS Platinum

Johan Boltendal #158

I use a 4 arm puller that fits on the studs, apply maximum force, leave it as it is, whit a bit of luck, it will be free the next morning.
if you don't want to wait, heat it a bit with a propane torch, just hand warm will do the trick most of the time.
Nice car. like the color combination

Don Pettee

Thanks for the input.   I finally figured it out after talking with Tom Young.  The 32 seems to be similar to the 30 but still a bit different.  After you remove the axle nut which you don't have to actually take off unless you need to take the axle off the hub.  There are two 9/16th bolts in the driving hub as it is called in the shop manual which you remove and there are also two 1/2 inch fine thread holes in the hub in which you thread two 1/2 inch bolts and the hub pops off with the axle attached.  Behind the driving hub is a 2 7/8 inch nut holding the axle bearing and the brake drum.  I need to get hold of a 2 7/8 socket before I can proceed so I'll add to the post when I'm finished.  I am forwarding pictures to Tom so he can include it in the next update of the Authenticity manual as others have had this same question.   
Thanks Don Pettee   
Don Pettee CLC #20471

Don Pettee

Pictures of the 32 rear driving hub removal process.
Don Pettee
Don Pettee CLC #20471