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Advice On My Fathers 1976 Eldorado Convertible

Started by Jack Miller CLC# 24441, July 30, 2010, 06:15:39 AM

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Jack Miller CLC# 24441

Hi All,

I need all of your help one more time on this subject, as the market on this car is not a demanding one. To refresh your memories, I lost my father in January in 2009. In his garage is his 1976 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible, white with red leather and a white top, with about 60,000 original miles. The car has not been driven or started since 1992. It has old gas in the tank, the windows were left open and there is a coating of mildew on the leather. From sitting so long there are also stacks of boxes and other items stored on top of the hood and trunk and inside the car.
The tires must be dry rotted,  I am sure that the fuel is bad after almost 20 years. I do not know if the brakes are still good or is the car starts. It will need a bit of money to make the car road worthy just because it sat so long. Wires are original, top, etc. I remember my dad parking it because he had a problem with the air suspension. The interior, if it cleans up, is great, a bit dry and the body is straight, it never saw any type of hits. No rust!
I want to make my mom a fair offer for this car, as I want it in my family and I want to pass it on to my son. (he just turned 11, so there is time to fix it up with him)
I will actually print up all of the responses, so she can read them and make up her mind and know that I did the right thing by her. (US dollars)
I am sure that she will need to know what you all think the car is worth fixed up, what it is worth now in the condition it is in and how much money and what you all think it will need to make right. I know that it was my dad's, but I don't want to buy a money pit and over pay from the start. I want to be more than fair to her, it's my mom!
Since this is the Cadillac Forum, nobody knows better.

Thanks
Jack Miller
1961 Cadillac Convertible Series 62

The Tassie Devil(le)

Hi Jack,

Firstly, let me say that any vehicle in the description you describe won't be worth anywhere near what a mint vehicle is worth.

To get it back to a good-running and show condition will cost you probably more than the purchase price of a mint vehicle.   Without doing it properly, it will become a vehicle that is constantly breaking down with little things causing headaches.

The only thing the car has going for it is the history on your side, and the rust-free-ness.   

Everything else WILL need either replacing, or repairing.

Cost of 4 tyres, complete braking system, Air Suspension stuff, possible wheel bearings from sitting still, and then the interior will probably clean up reasonably well, but not perfect, then there is the top.   It will need replacing as once you try to lower it, the canvas will not last too long before it starts to crack.   Then there is the fuel system.

Worth?   US$3,000.00   But, not worth much more.

Bruce.

PS.   Get some ebay prices on same year vehicles and keep a record. 

PPS.   Don't forget that there were so many 1976 models built, that they are worth less than say, a 1972 model.   But, that is my opinion.  I own a 1972, and wouldn't settle or another year for my own reasons.
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

76eldo

I think I remember a post about this car a while ago.  There are other siblings, and if it's the same car, is not going to be free to anyone.

In it's present state, the car is worth between $2000.00 and $3000.00.  If the interior stitching comes apart and the interior is not serviceable, it's a $1000.00 car.  If the poor storage created dents on the hood and trunk, that's going to cost a lot to repair.

Even if the car was clean, mint, and ready to drive, it's only about a $12,000 car.  The values on these are not at a point that they should be in my opinion, but they made 14,000 and there always seems to be an ample amount for sale.

Look at completed sales on ebay to see what they are actually selling for, and make reasonable deductions for work needed on yours.

Good Luck,

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

Derek J Sherwood

I did a car like this for a former co-worker.  Barn-kept, no concrete floor, just dirt and gravel.  Reworked it all to get it running, get the top working, fix the seized caliper and rotted brake lines, etc.  Basically just enough to get it functional to sell, because her dad was old, nearly blind, and could no longer drive it.

I also advertised it and negotiated the sale.  We ended up getting $4500.  I think that was actually a bit high, but the guy really wanted it.

The car had a mint interior however, there was very little mildew, although I'm not sure why.  The top was also ripped, and would need to be replaced by the next owner.


Ted in Olympia WA

I have been watching people sell cars like this for years here in the Northwest.  Very seldom do they sell for more than $1,500 and in today's market I bet way less.  Under the current market if you fix it up you will be lucky to get $10,000 for it.  You will have way for than this into it before you are done.

In my opinion your mom and siblings should give you the car if you are willing to fix it up and keep it in the family.

But the best way to get a fair value is to post it on eBay for a nice low starting bid and then be the high bidder.  I can almost bet you will buy it for $1,000-$1,500 and if you get a lot more than you are willing to pay than your mother comes out on the deal.  Just make sure she agree to give you $100 for your trouble if you are not the high bidder.

If you are worried about my eBay plan you can post it with a high reserve just to establish the value and make sure it will not sell.

A couple years ago I purchased a 1978 Eldorado with 52,000 miles on it.  This was almost the same story as yours but it had excellent interior.  The main problem was that the paint lost it clear coat and needed to be repainted.  My thought was it was too nice to part out so I posted it whole on eBay for $100 starting bid and $2,000 reserve.  I posted the complete history of the car (one owner and all receipts since new to prove mileage).  When the auction ended I had a high bid of $100 but I had an offer for the seats of $800.  Ended up parting out the car and it went to many happy new owners.

Good luck

TED

Selling used Eldorado Parts from 1971-1978.  Member Number 25659.

TJ Hopland

As it sits I would say 1-3K.  Decent drivers 3-5K.   After that you are talking about the right buyer in the exact right conditions and options.

My estimate on getting it up to driving condition:
Tires mounted and balanced alignment $500-$800 
Manual fill aftermarket rear shocks $90
Front shocks $60
Master cylinder $30
Rebuilt front calipers $60
Rebuilt rear caliper $180
Brake hoses $150
Front pads $40
Rear pads $?
Heater and radiator hoses $100
Belts $50
Ignition tune up $200
Vacuum advance can $30
Vacuum hoses $20
Fuel hoses $30
Filters $15
Fuel pump $50
Fluids $100
Interior cleaners $50


I would say since its in the family that you should get it moved (flatbed tow) to a place you can work on it.  When you have the time start looking at some aspects of the car.   Clean up the interior and get some leather cleaner and conditioner and try cleaning a couple spots to see how well it cleans up.    Pull the spark plugs and shoot some sort of lubricant in there to soak then try turning it over by hand or bump the starter.  If you want to be safe before you turn it pull off the valve covers and fabricate a tool to allow you to operate the valves by hand.  Sometimes after sitting they can stick and if you turn it over it can bend the pushords.  Often a slight bend wont seem to hurt anything and the valve will break loose and work fine but it keeps bending till it falls out.  The lifter then falls out and you loose all oil pressure.  You get only a few seconds to shut down or you will be doing a full rebuild.   You can then crank it over with the valve covers off and see that everything is moving,  Dont crank for more than a max of 10 seconds at a time.  After a few cranking cycles you should see oil up on and around the rockers.   If its all looking good at that point I would take off the carb and find someone to clean it and install a 'kit' (some call this rebuilding, I think rebuilding is much more involved).  For this stage I would not be looking for a full rebuild with bushings and such, I would be looking for a clean carb that is not going to leak gas all over the place.   Get the fresh carb on there and safely plumb the fuel pump into a container of fresh gas.  I use a outboard marine tank for this.  See if it starts.   Be sure to check to make sure the exhaust seems to be free flowing.   If it runs alright change the fluids and if you are in an isolated safe place maybe a slow careful test drive to see if everything at least sort of seems to work. Fluids includes draining the fuel tank.  You will know based on what you get out if you are going to have a problem.  If it looks pretty good I would just add a clear inline filter up by the fuel pump when you are replacing all the fuel lines including the short pieces between the tank and steel lines.  You dont have to drop the tank to do this.  If you are doing the shocks you will be back there anyway.   Dont do this first road test in a populated or hilly area.   If thats all good then at this point you know what new brakes and tires are going to cost and you can then make an estimate on what sort of condition the car will be in and what it may be worth you can then subtract what you have into or will have into it to get it to the driver state and pay your mom the difference. 

At that point you are going to hopefully have a drivable car that looks alright but its likely going to be temperamental and leaky. To deal with the leaks engine really needs to come out because of the way the transmission covers part of the bottom of the engine in the eldos.  You dont have to pull the heads off if there are no signs of issues but it will need the rest of the gaskets and a timing chain.  When the sheet metal is off you will get a good look at the rest and can then decide if it just gets new gaskets and a chain and goes back in or if its going to be rebuilt.  Same with trans.  Dont forget about the shift shaft seal, you cant get that out while its in the car.  Hopefully by the time you get to that stage you will have had a chance to drive and enjoy the car and will feel better about spending money on it or will decide to sell it because you dont like it that much. 
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason