Going to replace the diff carrier soon

[dadscad]

I found a good differential for my 63 and plan to install it soon after I get a new seal put in it and have it washed out. The shop manual says to use one gasket with non hardening sealer, if the carrier leaks between the housing and carrier, then pull it and use two gaskets with sealer. I don't like to do a job twice, this thing is heavy and, gaskets are not real plentiful, as I have found out.

My question is. Those that have R&R the carrier in their cars, have you had an issue of leaks using one gasket and sealer? I'm inclined to go ahead and just use two gaskets with Aviation non hardening sealer. Or, do I even need to use the sealer with the gasket(s)?

Any recommendations, suggestions?

Thanks,
David

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day David,

Whenever I install a Differential Pumpkin, I clean both surfaces of the housing and the Carrier with Brakleen to remove all traces of lubricant, and then use Loctite Blue RVT, or Motorcraft Black RVT, to coat each surface, using the ever-trustful finger to spread it equally, then place the gasket onto the studs and install the Carrier.

Before installing the nuts, I use Copper Washers to completely seal the threads and install the nuts and tighten to factory specifications.   Actually, I never ues the torque wrench in this process, as I have the "Feeling" for what is required, and go over them a few times.

Plus, I don't fill the diff with oil until the sealant has dried or set.

This way, I have never had a leak.   But, when it comes to removing the Carrier in the future, the Copper Washers have to be cut off with a deft use of a small cold chisel as the copper expands and goes into the thread of the stud.

Bruce.

[TJ Hopland]

Bruce pretty much described how I have done the few I have done.  To be clear on the RTV step you are not leaving a bead, you are smearing it over the gasket so it is just a film at least this is how I do it and I believe how Bruce is doing it). I then let it sit for an hour or before installing it.   I had never seen the copper washers before but the last Ford I did had them on a few of the studs and it looked like a good idea so I went and found some more.  I now have big assortment pack I picked up at harbor frieght but back then I think I got a small assortment pack from the Help! line that was meant for brakes. On mine at first I just tightened the nuts basically finger tight so I was sure it was fully seated and making contact with the housing and gasket.  I then let the rtv fully cure.  After its cured I then use the torque wrench to finish it off and then if I am not in a big hurry wait another cure period just in case before I put oil in.    

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Oh dear, I just remembered.

I smear the RVT on the housing, using the finger to spread it nice and thin, then install the Gasket, and spread more RVT on that, to save me getting the horrible silicone muck on the rest of me when I am struggling with the Carrier, as that is one heavy piece of metal when laying under the car and trying to shove it into position.

The cleaning process is important, but I don't let the RVT cure at all before bolting up the parts as that process is only done when I am wanting to pull something apart often, like a Rocker Cover on an engine with Solid Lifters.

With a Diff, I want it to seal once and never have to touch it again.

Bruce.

[dadscad]

Thanks guys. Sounds like one gasket and the sealer should do the trick. I do have new copper washers for the attaching nuts.

Bruce, I agree, that is one heavy sucker at 90#'s. I'm not young any more, so I'm going to allow a jack and a good friend to assist me when I do this dirty deed. There is no way I can lay on my back and lift one of these things. Last time I replaced a differential, I was 19 years old and it was in a 62 Impala.

I can hardly wait to get it changed. The old unit has been noisy for a long time, but now it's getting little louder.

Thanks,
David

[TJ Hopland]

Last one I did I used a floor jack with a transmission adapter on it.   I think the adapter was under $50 and has come in handy for all sorts of odd lifting projects. 

[dadscad]

Good idea on the transmission jack. A friend offered to loan me his motorcycle jack, if that does not look stable and low enough to go under the car I may shop Harbor Freight to see about an inexpensive transmission adapter for my 3t floor jack.

David

[markl]

David,
The Harbor Freight adaptor to turn your floor jack into a transmission jack is a bargain at about $40 as I recall (remember to check you center pin diameter before heading off to the store, they come in two sizes).  One little complication though, the whole assembly ends up being so high that there are few vehicles that you can use it on when setting on their own wheels.  Not a problem if you get the diff up in the air on jack stands, but I mean way up in the air.  You were probably going to do this anyhow, but just thought I'd mention it.  If you can borrow an honest to goodness transmission jack, I think you'll find it sets much lower.

Mark Lowery, CLC# 25216

[dadscad]

Hey, Mark.

Thanks for your thoughts on the jack adapter and under car clearance. I do plan on getting the rear of the car up as high as my jack stands will go. I'll take some measurements before I purchase any jacks or attachments to be sure it will pass under the car with the differential.

David

[TJ Hopland]

I got tired of dealing with jack stands and picked this up a few years ago.   A 2 post lift would be better but with a 1 car garage that has a 6' ceiling its just not possible.     Its a Kwiklift and it cost be about $2000 with accys and freight.

[dadscad]

Those are nice!

In my dreams, I have a 30 x 40 shop with high ceilings and a lift, sadly, only in my dreams.

[TJ Hopland]

Only 30x40?   In my dream the 30 x 40 is just the work shop.  There is then like a 60 x 60 'showroom' and then maybe a 30 x 30 'game room'.

[dadscad]

Mr. TJ Hopland,

I wanted to thank you for introducing the Kwiklift to me, today I ordered the 7K pound heavy duty lift. I was all set to pull the axles and differential on the car, with it up on jack stands. The day before I was going to start the project my wife hit a deer on the way to work. Well, her car is now in the body shop and she is driving my truck. I'll have to use the Cadillac and my motorcycle for transportation until the body shop is finished with the repair. I decided the Kwiklift would make this chore much easier and decided to bite the bullet and get one. My garage has 8' ceiling height so a real lift is out of the question, I think the Kwiklift will be the best alternative for me.

Thanks again,
David

[TJ Hopland]

There are some repairs that are not ideal with it but without the ceiling height for a 'real' one its really been handy.  I also like that it is fairly portable and its fairly easy to collapse flat and park on when not needed. 

I bought the 7000 unit also.  I got the deluxe pack with the paint, ramps, and a bridge.  I got the optional second bridge and the dollies.   I have never tried the dollies with something as heavy as a Caddy but my 66 mustang with no engine in it was very easy to scoot around the garage.   

You will for sure want a creeper with the flip up headrest:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-creeper-with-adjustable-headrest-46087.html

With some slight modifications (cutting) this is nice:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-gallon-oil-drain-dolly-90582.html

I think I went 1 year before I just broke down and got a bigger jack.  On the days where I decided to do oil changes on the whole fleet all the pumping got a bit old not to mention the heavy stuff like the Cads or 3/4 ton truck its a 2 handed job with the typical 3 ton jacks not to mention you are not quite at the optimum angle with the overhang of the large rigs.  This unit does not quite fit under the lift so I just set a 2x under it so there is room or the larger jack.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200318917_200318917

Today I just added a strip of 2" wide no slip tape to the top.  Its basically self adhesive sandpaper.   Is now winter in my area and over the last couple of years I have almost slid cars off the thing when the wheels were wet so I finally got around to hopefully eliminating that issue.     

[dadscad]

Thanks for the suggestions and insight on using the lift.

I also ordered the deluxe package and added the second bridge, extra pair of wheel chocks and a new jack. My old 3T jack is so abrupt when I let it down, it makes it tricky to set up jack stands etc. I'd hate to damage the ramp rear supports by slamming it on the ground with my old jack. I will take heed and put some traction tape on the approach ramp and ramp center for traction, like you did. My plan is to lay it flat and park on it until needed. I may have to invest in a new creeper, mine is a low model to help get under the car with it on jack stands, thanks for the H.F. tip.

[TJ Hopland]

Forgot about a few more items. 

If you end up on blacktop be sure to put a sheet of thin plywood under everything so you dont leave divots in your driveway.

Using the bridges requires something like a bottle jack.  I bought 2 of these and overall they work well.  For cars they are about the right height.  Higher stuff I sometimes set blocks in the bridges or set the jacks on the lift itself.  For heavy lifts I put the floor jack under the center of the bridge just to be sure its all well supported.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200318931_200318931