GM trim tool B-127 (For 1936 Cadillac)

[Jon Riley #13576]

Hi,

I am trying to remove the interior door handles from a 1936 Cadillac 75.  I am looking for the same or equivalent.

[R Schroeder]

This guy had some listed for sale, back in 2009. I dont know if he has more.
Maybe he knows where to get them.
Roy

http://www.mcveys.com/files/Price%20List%208.31.09.pdf

[35-709]

Assuming the handles use the same fastening method as on my '35, any tool like an awl with the last 1/2 inch or so bent 90 degrees will suffice.  Once you learn how to remove the handles  they are relatively easy and they don't require a "special" tool.  After getting the first one off pay close attention to how the little cylindrical, spring loaded, catch works and practice with it while off the car, then the rest of them should be fairly easy to get.  A friend helping me with mine swore up and down that they could not be removed, an old-time body man, also helping, took the 90 degree prick punch (that I bought at Harbor Freight) from him and popped the handle off quicker than it takes to tell it.  Once he had "the knack" my friend had them all off in no time.  Good luck. 

[Classic]

What you need is a hook and pick set like this:  Craftsman 4 pc. Pick and Hook Set  Sold by Sears | Sears Item# 00941513000 | Model# 41513.   They should have them at your local Sears store  $7.99.  Harbor Freight may have something similar.  Also, you could ask your dentist for a used dental pick.  They work well.
The handles have a spring-loaded pin that you have to depress.  Insert the tool in the slot in the handle with the point of the tool facing towards the handle, not the door, and push the point of the tool towards the handle.  Once you have the pin depressed, pull the handle off.  Like the previous poster said, once you have the knack, it's a piece of cake!

[Brad Ipsen CLC #737]

There is another problem here that can make these almost impossible to take off depending on the condition and storage of your car.  Like previously stated there is a little cylinder that needs to be depressed.  It is a little over 1/8 inch in diameter and back loaded with a spring.  If the handles got corroded for any reason the corrosion of the pot metal can seize the cylinder and it is almost impossible to move.  If the condition is very bad and the door panels are going to be replaced you can cut them away and get more room on the back side of the handle and use more force and stronger tools.  These cylinders are held in place by a slight bending of a pot metal tab.  I have not had to replate any of these but not sure what technique could be used.  The plating chemicals would not do nice thing to this tiny cylinder and spring.

[Terry Wenger]

Jon and Brad;

That type of handle fastening was used at least back to '32. I have had them replated and the plungers free up if stuck with some WD-40 or any penetrating oil after plating.

Terry

[35-709]

My experience has been the same as Terry Wenger's.  My handles have been rechromed, I filled the handle mounting holes in each with PB Blaster for a few days so the cylinder was immersed, most of them would then push in and pop out with no problem, a couple responded to a light tap with a small screwdriver blade and a hammer while being held in the rubber jaws of my vice.  They all work fine.  Next time (if there ever is one) I will inquire about the platers putting something in the handle hole/cavity to keep the chemicals out if possible.

[Jon Riley #13576]

Thank you everyone for your replies.  We plan on purchasing the sears set and incorporating everyone's advice in order to remove the handles.

Thanks again.

Jon Riley