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Paint advice

Started by Doug Spingelt, March 10, 2011, 06:14:32 PM

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Doug Spingelt

I am going to begin getting a few bids to paint my 75 Eldorado Convertible for paint.  the body is in good shape with new front and back fender extensions and no actual dents.  There is some rust around the rear where the top meets the trunk deck.  It is Gossimer Blue and I have matching color coded hubcaps  and as well just got all new 1 5/8 inch white walls so she is looking sharp.  This car has two paint jobs on it now, that I can tell.  I plan to have that almost all removed and cleaned up. 

I am going to come clean and duck and cover and say that I am planning on spending up as much as 2K, but not more.  I can do some of the work myself to save money too.   

Anyway, any advice on this old girl that I can pass on or watch for?  What about Maaco?  We love this car for all year driving, weather permitting, but it will never be a show car. 

Thanks for your advice and not hammering me on not getting a 12K paint job!  :-)   
Doug Spingelt

The Tassie Devil(le)

G'day Doug,

The best way to save money is to do as much of the work as you can.   Not all of us can afford to simply pay for stuff to be done, and my motto is "If it can be done, then there is no reason, without research and learning, that I can't do it myself"   Watching and assisting (getting in the way at times) others doing things, helps as well.

Sure, there are tradespersons out there, but a lot of these only do one part of the process, and pass it on to the next person.

The best way to educate yourself is to take the time and practice on rubbish stuff, and mess up those things first, and eventually, you will be able to handle bigger tasks, and get better.

Remember, we were all babies, once, and those that have mastered things, have learned to do things.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Chris Conklin

Please keep us posted here. I'd like to see how much work you do yourself and how it comes out. I think to meet that price you will have to do quite a bit or decide less is more.
Finding time is always my difficulty.

I had my El Camino painted at one of the large franchise operations quite some time ago. It was a little better than I expected. Actually, it must have been pretty good, the truck was stolen soon after! Anyway, the only difference from their cheap paint job to their expensive paint job is the length of the warranty. But back then, around 1987, I paid $1200.
Chris Conklin

Bill Hedge CLC 14424

I have a 74 Eldo convertible and the area where you mention you have rust is a very common problem area here in the rust belt (Indiana).  Make sure that you look very carefully for rust in this area.  Another problem area is the rear wheel wells.  Since rust in these areas is only going to spread and cause more expensive repairs I would spend more resources in addressing the rust issues first.

Dennis J. DiNorcia

I did all the body work on my 76 Eldo convertible. I brought it in to Maaco and they advised in order for them to do the job properly and guarranty the job, the will have to sand and prime the whole car with their own primer. I went out on a limb and agreed. They were going to do 2 coats of poly-enamel (or whatever they called it, I do not remember) and then a clear coat that will be wet sanded and buffed. I did all the door jambs myself so they only had to paint the "outside" of the car. The car was in the shop for a week and when I got it back I was shocked. The job was absolutely perfect. The quality of work, the paint and the care with the door jambs etc. was great. The car looked like it was dipped in porcelin. No one believed it was a Maaco job. What impressed me even more is that they were able to match the factory color (Phoenican Ivory) perfect. I was told that Maaco can be a "hit or miss" thing depending on the shop. They have done many classic cars in the area so I gues they were more accustomed to giving the care the job needed. I can try to post some photos and you can see how the car came out. I was totally satisfied. Good luck with project. P.S. 2 years ago I had the same Maaco do my 1989 DeVille in metallic silver and I was just as satisfied. That was only a $500.00 dollar job but it was done to my satisfaction again.

Doug Spingelt

Thanks for all o fthe advice.  If it ever stops raining here for 2 seconds, I will be taking it in for an estimate.  I notice that they have their premium jon for about 1,300.00 and that will be what I am going for.  I may be able to pay them for some other repairs too.  i am super excited to get this done.  It will look amazing I hope.  I'll keep you posted. 
Doug Spingelt

Jeff Wilk

Doug, I like your approach to a repaint and with the determination to enjoy this car!  You and I seem to have purchased "sister cars" last year.  Mine is also the firemest Gossimer blue, and it has the white top and white interior.  Original paint is really nice except on the hood and trunk lid.  Those look like they've been buffed out at least three times too many......no shine left at all.  I like the comments below about MACO being able to match the original so well.  I think I may try them out also.  Keep us posted with pictures and good luck.

Jeff
"Impossible Only Describes The Degree Of Difficulty" 

Southern New Jersey

1959 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special
1975 Eldorado Convertible (#12 made)
1933 Phaeton Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"
1933 Master Sedan Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"

SOLD
1976 Cadillac Mirage (factory authorized Pick-Up)
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sedan
1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville

TJ Hopland

I had a decent paint job done on my 73 convert about 7 years ago.   Much of the trim was off the car when they got it and I had them fit and install the replacement fillers along with install the trim when it was done.   I think my total ended up $3500 not counting some body work that they found needed to be done.  The body work was done at an hourly rate which turned out to be $35/hr, gotta love small towns.   I thought it was a medium quality paint job but over the years I have been told by a few detailers I have used that it was a very good job so maybe I got a good deal.   Its not got a few chips and scratches I should deal with.

Keep us posted on how it comes out.
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Doug Spingelt

Jeff, where are you located?  I am in Seattle.  Rare to find matching cars.  I don't think I have ever seen this color combo for sale before in my region, and I know I am partial, but it is my favorite.  I assume I'll have somehtng completed in the next month.  I bet you could get the deck repanted front and back for a couple hundred dollars.  My car never got a clear coat and the paint is all chalboard blue.  it actually changes color when wet!  where it chipped off, the original paint is actually much better. 
Doug Spingelt

Jeff Wilk

Hi Doug, I am in NJ, but I bought the car from the Beverly Hills CA area.  It's all original with only 70k on it, and from what I can tell has all options except air bag, and track assist brakes.  Every other option is there and working. 

Very frustrating on the paint as the seller did something to it that lasted about 4 months and then the magic slowly began to vanish.  Must have used some heavy oil based wax or some trick to "juice up" the hood and trunk lid and give them more color.  Now they are faded, and are showing lots of swirl marks etc.   >:(

Only rust I've found is under the rear carpets......a couple of pin holes.....which must have come from the two mini swimming pools that form in the rear seat foot wells when the car is left in the rain, or washed and washed and washed and washed with a garden hose (   ::) I wonder who did that   ::)  ).   

Have had to re-do the brakes, new rear air shocks, CV boots, full tune-up, rebuilt carb, and new EGR valve.  Transmission was a full rebuild by AAMCO a year ago that leaked real bad but the warranty lasted long enough and was transferable to me upon purchase so I got that mostly fixed.  Now it starts and runs great (not too happy with the cold weather....but then it is a west coast car moved to NJ...so I can understand the sadness).    See the picture below.....

I intend for it to be a regular summer driver as long as the gas does not continue to rise  :(

I think its going to be in the upper 50's this weekend, and with the nearly 5" of rain we've had  this week all the salt and sand is washed off the roads....so.....time for a late winter drive on Sunday.......

Jeff

"Impossible Only Describes The Degree Of Difficulty" 

Southern New Jersey

1959 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special
1975 Eldorado Convertible (#12 made)
1933 Phaeton Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"
1933 Master Sedan Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"

SOLD
1976 Cadillac Mirage (factory authorized Pick-Up)
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sedan
1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville

john mcniff

Doug, You seem to be getting some good advice so I will add my two cents. I was in the auto body business for 25 years and restored and painted hundreds of cars.
I had lots of car guys as customers and many of them wanted or needed to have there cars painted as cost effectively as possible.

This is what I would tell them, remove as much of the exterior trim as you possibly can yourself.This will save the body shop time, and time is money( your money). Even a great paint job can fail around items that where masked in stead of removed because of time constraints.

To properly remove many trim items on that car requires removal of the interior door trim panels (mirrors, door handles lock cylinders, belt moldings etc.) as well as the rear seats and inner quarter panel trim(especially to properly repair the rust on the rear shelf). Removing and reinstalling these items can take an experienced person many hours, so if you can do this portion yourself you can save a good deal of money while letting the body shop do what you really want from them, give you a good quality paint job and rust repair that will last.

I have owned several of that vintage eldo conv. and the rust that you are seeing around the top on the rear shelf is common, but should receive special attention and rustproofing from under the rear shelf.The problem in that area is that any moisture and dirt  from the top collects along the belt molding and finds its way under the rear shelf, so in all but the driest climates this is an area that should not be passed over lightly.
It would be a shame to do all that work only to have that area fail again.

If you can do some or all of these things you will save a lot of money, while  getting a better final result, And lets be honest, putting the trim and chrome back on a nice new paint job is the most fun! OK so I guess that was more like 25 cents that two , best of luck to you.....John


Doug Spingelt

That is a beautiful car.  i am excited to get mine looking that good.  thanks for the advice John about removing the parts forst.  I had hoped that was a money saver because I was planning to do that.  I need to remove the door handles anyway to replace the lock retrurn springs and I have had the back seat out a few times replacing the top motor.  (This car was in poor shape.)  the car didn't come with any other trim parts so I have been collecting and refinishing them.  they are all on the ar now, but easy to remove again. 

Jeff, can you tell me what the carb rebuild cost?  I know I could use one of those as there is hesitation and sometimes a dead spot upon accelleration, plus it run VERY rich.  now with the recent new resonator it is so smooth otherwise. 

Since we have flood warnings now this week, I still have not taken it in for estimates.  I have a feeling it will be a few weeks.  I'll keep you posted.  Thanks--All.
Doug Spingelt

Jeff Wilk

Doug, the carb rebuild is not cheap.  Expect to pay from $375 - $500 depending on the condition.  It's a big carb, with some unique parts.  Make sure whoever does it is familiar with the Q-Jets for 75.  The running rich part may also be the EGR valve malfunctioning causing an overall problem with vacuum, and more.

Jeff
"Impossible Only Describes The Degree Of Difficulty" 

Southern New Jersey

1959 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special
1975 Eldorado Convertible (#12 made)
1933 Phaeton Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"
1933 Master Sedan Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"

SOLD
1976 Cadillac Mirage (factory authorized Pick-Up)
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sedan
1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville

Doug Spingelt

Car went in for paint yesterday.  Took it to Maaco and getting some minor allignment of the bumbers done, front and rear fillers installed, hubcaps color coded and rear trunk deck de-rusted and truck jam cleaned up.  very exciting.  We went to 3 places for estimates.  this was the most expensive but this shop seems to do alot of classic cars and I liked what was in their paint shop.  (Not just hyundays with bad bumpers) they said it would take two weeks and about $2300.00.  I opted for a 2 stage with urithane clear coat in firemist Gossamer Blue.  They are aware that I will be annoying and comming by to take pictures. (That probably is added in the price.)  I think it is going to look amazing.   I am ordering ner carpet too and then will have the seats re-dyed in white to sharpen it up.  top is white and in good shape.  I'll keep progress posted with some pics.
Doug Spingelt

J

i'm excited for you and can't wait to see pics ,that is around the same price i was quoted at a  maaco around here thats known to put out good quality paint jobs   this will help in my decision rather to get painted  but its got to be better then 36 year old faded paint,   Jessie
Cadillac got me!!!