liquid chrome paint

[drothman]

Has anyone used Eastwood's or another company's liquid chrome paint? I want to cover plastic with a chrome-like  finish.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day David,

A friend had his motor cycle petrol tank painted with the "Chrome" Paint, and it was EXPENSIVE, but came out a matt-coloured Silver.

The Instructions were followed to the letter, and the painter was a professional, and the company that sold it to him ended up refunding his money.

It just didn't come anywhere near like chrome.

Bruce.

PS.   The actual Chrome Plating was going to cost $350.00, but the paint ended up over $800.00.

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

David:

I have tried a number of these "spray on chrome" paints and never found one
that I thought was very good.

The process used to do plastic parts is called "vacuum metalizing" and actually
deposits a thin layer of chromium on the part.  A paint cannot duplicate this.

That said, there are firms that will replate your part using this method, but
I've never done that and don't know what it costs.  If you can get an NOS
part, it might be a better way to go.

Mike   

[dino]

Check this out.   Not sure if you have seen this before.
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/segment/restoration-blog/spray-on-chrome/

[R Schroeder]

That is amazing, but they sure use a lot to do a part. More than a spray can I bet.

[Fred Pennington 25635]

I have seen the Spectra Chrome at a car show, A local body shop is doing it. It looks good as long as you don't put it next to real chrome, Then you can tell the difference. In some cases I believe it is a good alternative

Fred P.

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

I've seen this Leno blurb before.

This "spray on chrome" is for use on steel, designed as an alternative to
real chrome plating.  It is, however, just a paint that uses a clear coat type
of finish.  It will not fill badly pitted steel pieces the way that copper-nickel-
chrome plating does.

It's not what I was referring to as the type used for plastic in my earlier
post.

Mike

[Terry Wenger]

 I agree with Mike that the paint process will not replace the vacuum metallizing process on plastics, nor is it as good as using copper to fill some pits on steel and die cast pot metal.

However, I do all my own polishing before taking the pieces to the plater and I know that grinding, polishing, or even the expensive multiple copper plating and buffing cannot eliminate all pits, especially those that go almost all the way through the metal piece such as the  '55 Cadillac goddess that I had recently. Finding a NOS part is great but doesn't happen very often especially with the pre-war luxury cars.

The advantage I see with this painting method is the ability to polish the piece and fill the bad pits with common body fillers or putties, finish smooth then use these sprays if they work as well as shown in the Leno piece. It is another method to add to the chrome plating "arsenal".

Terry Wenger

 

[Tom Hall 7485]

How much area do you need to cover, Mr. Rothman?

For a long time, plastic modelers have been grappling with how to put a chrome-like finish on small parts.  For small thin lines, such as found on instrument panels, there are some specialty paints that can be polished after they cure.  Those finishes remain relative fragile, just like the originals!  For other small parts, there is an adhesive-backed foil that has to be burnished on.  Seams are somewhat noticeable, though.  I might be tempted to use foil on something like a small crest for the interior of the car.

Before using the Eastwood product on the real thing, try a little of it on the back side of your plastic parts to see if it causes the plastic to melt and craze. Then be sure that it really dries hard.  Some of these metallic hobby paints remain just a little tacky or powdery.