News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

New owener

Started by Martin Michaels, June 27, 2011, 05:08:20 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Martin Michaels

Finally fulfilled a dream,just picked up a 1947 4 door series 62 black not in to bad of shape wondering were is the best place to start in bringing it back to life? What are some things to look out for?


Martin Michaels
Marty  CLC#26833
1947 6269  Cavern Green
1980 CDV D Elegance  White

The Tassie Devil(le)

G'day Martin,

Congratulations on your purchase, and the first think you should do is purchase a Workshop and Owners Manual for it.

These come up on Ebay, and will be an invaluable asset to whatever you want to do to or with your car.

As far as "bringing it back to life" does it run?   Or, how long has it been since it was run and driven?

These are important things to know before offering assistance.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

C.R. Patton II

Hello Martin

Congratulations on your dream fulfillment. In addition to Bruce's suggestions I think you should  attend and join the Cadillac LaSalle Club region near you. The members will be warm and willing to assist you with your car.
All good men own a Cadillac but great gentlemen drive a LaSalle. That is the consequence of success.

76eldo

Welcome to the message board and hopefully the club.

A few years back, I brought a 1960 back from a 30 year nap.

Change ALL fluids
Drop and clean out the fuel tank
Check radiator to see if it will hold water and if water flows through it.
Change All rubber hoses, belts, and brake hoses, rubber fuel lines
Take the plugs out and squirt penetrating oil in the cylinders and see if the engine will turn over.
Don't crank the starter, put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and see if it will turn.
If it's a manual trans you can also try to put it in gear and jack up the back and turn the wheels in 3rd gear.
If the belts are tight enough, you might be able to turn it over by hand with the fan.

Problem is, if it's free, not stuck, the rings might still be stuck in the piston lands, so I would soak it with oil for at least a week, rotating the engine a little bit each day and stopping in a different spot.

Get a new fuel pump.  The old diaphragm will probably be split and may allow gas to get into the oil.  If it's not split the newer fuel will kill it in short order, possibly getting rubber particles in your carb.

If you replace the points, condenser, rotor and cap, and plugs, and have fresh gas in a clean tank, you can try starting the car, but watch the oil pressure gauge.  Might want to put in a temporary mechanical gauge to see what the oil pressure is.  Once it starts, try to keep the RPM at about 1000 if possible which will promote more oil flow than just letting it idle.

Some people pull the distributor and drive the oil pump shaft to pre-prime the oil in the engine.

The above are just some thought and suggestions, common sense stuff from over the years.  I am not an engine exoert, nor a professional mechanic, but i have revived cars that have sat for long periods of time before.

You will probably have a water pump leak as soon as it starts rotating against the dried up seal.  If there's a way to lube it before starting the engine, try that, but you will probably have to replace it right away.

Lastly,  BRAKES.  Pull the wheels, see if the wheel cylinders are working, bleed out all of the old fluid and get new DOT 3 fluid in there, bleed the brakes and see if they are working.  Replace ALL rubber brake hoses.

Good luck,

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

Martin Michaels

Thanks for the info.I ordered a manual,greased water pump,motor is free can see bubbles in fuel pump. lights are very dim will check grounds,seems to be alot of them. Codes  on body plate,Style no. 47-6269,Body no.FW 23636,trim no.78,paint no. 3 K,top acc,body by fisher. any help decoding these will be appreciated



Marty  CLC#26833
1947 6269  Cavern Green
1980 CDV D Elegance  White

robert G. smits

Excellent summary by Brian.  The only thing I would add is to drop the pan and clean all the sludge before it breaks loose and plugs the oil pump.  Bringing one to life is a lot of fun.  I am almost finished with a mechanical restoration on a  58 that has been sitting since the 70's.  Rather than cleaning the gas tank I would send it to Gas Tank RENU in Waller Texas. It will be done correctly and you will never have to worry about it again.   Bob Smits #2426
R. Smits, #2426
23 Cad 7P Touring
32 Cad 5P Coupe
38 Cad 90 Series
41 Cad 63 Series
58 Cad Eldo Barritz
The average man can take care of one Woman and two Cadillacs, Al Edmond AACA Past President

Chris Conklin

Quote from: Martin Michaels on June 27, 2011, 10:08:54 PM
Codes  on body plate,Style no. 47-6269,Body no.FW 23636,trim no.78,paint no. 3 K,top acc,body by fisher. any help decoding these will be appreciated

The first items are easy, it is a '47 Series 62 Sedan, the 23,636th assembled out of 25,834 total. So pretty late in the run.

Trim 78 is Tan Broadcloth, Paint 3 is Cavern Green (prettier than black, I think). You may want to re-check your data (photo helps), not sure what the "K" is referencing or where it actually is located on the tag. Later cars used "K" to designate A/C, definitely not the case here. Your motor number should fall between 8420001 and 8459835.

Another good book to have (and where I got the above info) is Roy Schneider's Cadillacs of the Forties. Check the So Cal Chapter web site, there should be copies available, http://www.clcsocal.com/webpages/merchandise/cadbks.html.

And congratulations!! Post some pics!
Chris Conklin

76eldo

By all means, if you can drop the pan and clean everything out,  that's a great idea.

Brian
Brian Rachlin
Huntingdon Valley, Pa
I prefer email's not PM's rachlin@comcast.net

1960 62 Series Conv with Factory Tri Power
1970 DeVille Conv
1970 Eldo
1970 Caribu (?) "The Cadmino"
1973 Eldorado Conv Pace Car
1976 Eldorado Conv
1980 Eldorado H & E Conv
1993 Allante with Hardtop (X2)
2008 DTS
2012 CTS Coupe
2017 XT
1956 Thunderbird
1966 Olds Toronado

Mike Josephic CLC #3877

One small addition to previous posts.

When you replace your brake fluid use DOT 4, which is the replacement for
the old DOT 3.  It offers better high temperature performance and improved
properties vs. the older fluid.

Mike
1955 Cadillac Eldorado
1973 Cadillac Eldorado
1995 Cadillac Seville
2004 Escalade
1997 GMC Suburban 4X4, 454 engine, 3/4 ton
custom built by Santa Fe in Evansville, IN
2011 Buick Lucerne CX
-------------------------------------
CLCMRC Museum Benefactor #38
Past: VP International Affiliates, Museum Board Director, President / Director Pittsburgh Region