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66 429 Crossover pipe bolts-broke

Started by Chuck Swanson, July 09, 2011, 09:40:55 PM

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Chuck Swanson

Getting ready to pull the 429 out of my convertible.  Soaked the crossover to exhaust manifold bolts with PB, but they still broke off.  Hopefully after pulling the engine I can apply some heat to remove rest of bolt.   Any one else run into?   :(

Just need to put car on jack stands, disconnect transmission linkage and mount, then ready to pull tommorow!  ;D

Debating whether to sand/soda blast the entire car after pulling engine.  Interior all removed except dash and convert. top.  Most of molding off except top of doors.  For a few hundred bucks...thinking might as well  :)
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Ralph Messina CLC 4937

Chaz,

I take it you got the crossover pipe off and are just concerned with removing the bolt fragment. Heat will work if you have enough of the bolt protruding to get a grip on it.  But I’d try more penetrating oil and spray it each day. It may come loose. If it still frozen, I’d drill the center of the stud and use an E-Z out. If worst comes to worst you can drill the entire bolt out and put a Heli-Coil in. My concern is the fire potential from a torch near a greasy/oily  engine.

You’ve likely removed the fan blade and shaft extension already. But also remove the Power Servo, vacuum switch and relay from the AC/Heater box on the firewall. That will allow you lift the engine almost straight up to clear the radiator support ----you may have to tilt it just a bit.

The door and rear side window belt molding are easy to remove once you remove the glass  from the regulator. You can see the screws but must remove the glass for access. I believe, but am not sure, that the belt molding around the convertible top area is held on by screw/studs accessible from the trunk. The Fisher Body Manual has complete instructions and it’s fairly easy.

Personally, I never sand blast body panels unless there’s heavy rust. The heat and pressure generated can warp panels and it won’t be noticeable until they're painted. Soda and glass bead also gets into every imaginable crevice and is impossible to get out. However, painting will dislodge the particles and they always settle onto the paint in the most obvious spots. I stripped my Brougham with aircraft paint stripper. It was messy and requires eye and hand protection but it took paint, primer and plastic down to the bare metal.

HTH,
Ralph
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2018 GMC Yukon

Chuck Swanson

Ralph, great info!  Thanks for the detailed reply.

Yes, for the crossover pipe, I have about 3/8" left of bolt on 3 of the studs.  One of the bolts came out fine.   I may try heat first as the engine is out now and in the back of my pickup.  I can head over to my friend with a heavy duty torch.  I was also thinking of removing the entire exhaust manifold too.  Bolts are are all sprayed with PB. 

Engine came out fine, just one mishap, the thermostat housing cracked. I used the lift plate that sits here the carb goes on intake.  Had to set to 1/2 ton and came out on first try.
Also took off the crankshaft pully.

BTW, caught that the propellor shaft is the "drive shaft"   ;D  Came off fine.  Only other bolt that broke was a mounting bolt for the trans bracket..not a big deal as I can use any bolt. 

I should clarify I agree with the warping risk.  However, for a few hundred I can take and have professionally done (sand blast on frame only, walnut shells or other on body).   Local place here is highly recoomended by local resto shops.  I agree with the sand though...I still have coming out mt 67 Nova trunk lid once and a while and it was painted 5 yrs ago ;)


I will check on the belt molding...thanks!!
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Like 65-66 Club: www.facebook.com/6566Cadillac
66 DeVille Convertible-CLC Sr Wreath, (AACA 1st Jr 2021, Senior 2022, 1st GN 2022 Sr GN 2023), Audrain Concours '22 3rd in Class.
66 Sedan DeVille hdtp
66 Calais pillar sedan
66 Series 75 9-pass limo
65 Eldorado (vert w/bucket seats)
65 Fleetwood
07 DTS w/ Performance pkg.
67 Chevy II Nova (AACA Sr GN 2018)
69 Dodge Coronet R/T