Idler Arm - 1940 60S

[pauldridge]

I bought a new idler arm for my 60S.  It's the stationary piece that attaches to the frame with two bolts.

I figured out right off that the nut on the bottom is left hand thread.  On the new part, the nut just screws right off.

However, on my existing part, I loosened up the nut, and it turned fairly freely (clockwise) but got to a certain point and just wouldn't turn any further.  I was afraid I'd break it if I applied any more force.  Additionally, the external diameter of the nut on the new part is larger than the original, so I worry that if I muck up the original, the new part might not mate properly with the original tie-rod.

Has anyone else had experience with this little bugger?

[Chris Davis]

Are you trying to unscrew the bushing with the link and support as a unit or separately?

My recollection of replacing the same part on my 41 is that I had to screw the threaded bushing into the pivot link (idler arm); then the support into the threaded bush (allowing for some play for the parts to pivot without locking the threads against the bottom of the threaded bush); then attach the support to the frame with it's two bolts.

Dis-assembly should be the reverse - unbolt the support, then screw it out of the threaded bush, the un-crew the threaded bush from the pivot link. 

[pauldridge]

Chris,

You saved me.  I was just about on the verge of firing up the torch, I would have never figured out that mechanism.  The linkage came off almost without tools, thanks to your guidance.  I had wondered what kept that lower nut from just unscrewing, but now I see.  The inner, stationary shaft has left-hand threads, but the outer bushing it rides in mates to right hand threads inside the pivot link itself.  Quite an ingenuous design.

Reminds me a bit of the threaded king pins on my MGA roadster.  Each time you turn the wheel, you are "unscrewing" the kingpin linkage.

For lack of further instructions, I snugged the outer bush up pretty tight (the part with the hex-head fitting) and left enough threaded play in the support shaft to allow for full steering movement in both directions.

Now my steering wheel free play has gone from 20 degrees or so down to 2-3 degrees, and it took about 5 minutes to change!