Climate control issue...

[Rick Biarritz]

83 Eldo.

The OFF, AUTO, ECON, HI, LOW, and DEFROST buttons all work.

The OUTSIDE TEMP, and COOLER, HOTTER buttons do NOT work.

I'm stuck at 76 degrees.

What's the problem, guys?

Thanks

["Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364]

Rick,
What do you mean "they do not work?"
Greg Surfas

[Rick Biarritz]

If you hit the outside temp button, it does not display. It just keeps reading 76 degrees.
If you hit the cooler button, it does not move, it stays stuck on 76 degrees.
If you hit the warmer button, it just stays stuck on 76 degrees.

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Every so often I have the same issue on my '83 Fleetwood where the buttons you mention periodically go inactive.

Try depressing BOTH the "WARMER" and "OFF" simultaneously for a few moments to go into the Diagnostic mode. Then after the system runs the diagnostic sequence and the display shows "70", return to the regular mode by pressing "AUTO" and see if this restores normal function. It has worked for me but might require more than one attempt.

[Rick Biarritz]

Oh, I think I'm in trouble. I've entered the diagnostics before, just as you instructed (and I have a handy little card that tells what to do, also). Well, now it doesn't work at all. Holding the warmer and off button results in nothing. Following the directions to clear the codes also does nothing. Hoping this is gonna be simlple... Just had the car repainted 9 days ago. Looks FAB!

[Dave Shepherd]

At this point sounds like the control head is bad, common issue.

[Rick Biarritz]

Control head? Can I get a new one? Where? Expensive?

Thanks for the tip, I'll begin looking now. 

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Sorry that didn't help.

Sounds like your ECC module. Fortunately removal from the dash isn't too difficult.

If you're planning on keeping the car around for a while, I might suggest getting your ECC control head serviced instead of swapping with a used unit as we're dealing with ~30 yo electronic parts. I've been using United Radio, Syracuse NY for all my electronic repairs for the last 20+ years and their service is first rate. Other members might have suggestions as well.

[Rick Biarritz]

Is the ECC module the same as the control head mentioned above?  Also, is it the part with the threaded arm that opens and closes the doore and is accessed behind the glove box? I replaced that two years ago with a junk yard part. If I remember correctly, I used the JY part because nobody had the part new. It was one of my first Cadillac repairs and it went easily and I was quite proud of myself!

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

That's the actuator, not the ECC head.

The part that's bad is the part in dash (the unit you're looking at). It's roughly the size of a car radio when it's out of the car.

[Rick Biarritz]

Excellent. Thank you. A few more for you... 

You use ECC module AND ECC control head when you write -- they're the same thing, right? (By the way, I have the Cad shop manual, and I love it, but I'm not at the house right now.)

Also, how much do you think this place in NY would charge to service the part?

Being Sunday, the parts dept's are closed at the dealership, of course, but can I get this part from them?

Thanks again.

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Here's a link to UR.

I'd suggest giving them a call first and discuss the situation. They might just exchange for a remanufactured ECC head- yes, I use the term interchangeably with module. On the other hand, they might have to repair your actual unit, being an older part. Their prices are reasonable and turnaround time is quick as a rabbit.

Best of luck.



http://www.unitedradio.com/consumer/

[Rick Biarritz]

Thanks again. This is quite useful.

[cadillactim]

Rick

I rebuild those units, and also have some on the shelf ready to ship. Cost is $175 with exchange. You just send the old part back after installing the rebuilt one.

The problem you describe is the control head. There is an insulator that falls apart and prevents the buttons from working even though you can press them.  See it all the time.

I also rebuild the programmers behind the glove box if you ever need those.

If you want the control head you can email me directly at tagroves@wctel.net or call me during business hours at 864-352-3306.

Tim

[Rick Biarritz]

Thanks. Let me yank the unit, and get in touch with you. What can you tell me about pulling the old one? Easy? Do I have to disconnect the negative battery cable?

Thanks again.

[cadillactim]

Rick

Just remove the radio faceplate, remove two screws holding dash control , pull it out. Unplug main wire connector and smaller wire connector. You don't have to disconnect the battery, just make sure key is OFF.

Tim

[76eldo]

Tim,

My 1980 control head might be bad too.  I'm not getting 12V to my compressor when I hit the buttons, and sometimes the off button does not work.

I have a bunch of these laying around from cars I parted out over the years.

Do you know which years are interchangeable with 1980 Eldo's?

Thanks,

Brian

[cadillactim]

Brian

1980 Eldo and Seville only.  The 12V not getting to to compressor is more likely a bad blower module, as that is where the compressor gets its power.  The button problem is inside the control head as mentioned earlier.

Tim

[76eldo]

I have a working one from an 81, and the one in there is out of an 85 I think.

Even though they all look the same and the plugs are the same, I guess they are different from year to year.

Thanks,

Brian

[cadillactim]

Brian

Yes, they're different even though the 81 looks like an 80.  What you can do is remove the faceplate assembly from the 81 and use it on your 80. Take the screws off that hold the faceplate and the metal lid to the metal housing. Then unplug the wiring connector from the faceplate (just pulls off). Reverse order to install.

If your 81 is not from an Eldo or Seville you will also need to change the plastic housing the faceplate sets in. Look at the mounting tabs on the backside. On one of them you will see a C D or an E K.  If your spare says C D then you will need to swap the plastic housings.

The circuit boards are different, but the faceplates are the same on 80-81.

Tim