Trunk floor pan for 1937

[rlreat]

I am needing the trunk floor pan for a 1937 4 door sedan LaSalle.I know very little about this car but am suppose to go get it this weekend.It's in pretty good shap from what i can tell.I am wondering how hard and how expensive are the parts going to be before I go get it.I am paying 3,500 for the car.Needs some TLC.Needs lots of small expensive things I am sure such as hood ornament and on and on lol.I would appreciate any input from you folks. Thanks R Reat

[markl]

Mr. Reat,
Well I think I have a source for you for the trunk floor pan.  It ain't cheap, but other parts I purchased from these folk seemed to fit well, and they are pleasant to deal w/ over the phone.  The outfit I'm referring to is Kemp's Rod and Restoration in Hancock MI.  They have two division, one actually does restorations and builds custom rods, while the other division (and location) makes parts, mainly sheet metal reproductions.  So your truck floor is listed at $500.  What I found in my car was that the floor was okay, but the piece known as a "tool tray" and the lower rear panel both needed replacing.  So go to their website, www.kempsrodsandrestoration.com and look at the photos of the various pieces and see what you actually need.

Turns out we have hot-rodders to thank for the very existence of these reproduction parts.  I fact, the rear panel came w/o the cutouts for the bumper brackets.  The reason being that rodders routinely blank these off so as to run the vehicle w/o bumpers!  They did however scribe the proper size cutout and location for the use in a restoration.

BTW, if you'd like to be referred to by other than "Mr. Reat", give us a first name or at least a nick name.  I know whenever I hear someone say "Mr. Lowery", I look around to see if my father has risen from the dead!

Mark Lowery, CLC#25216




Mark Lowery, CLC#25216

[Classic]

This link worked better for me:  http://www.exploringthenorth.com/kemp/rods.html

[markl]

Gene,
My goof; it is www.Kempsrodandrestoration.com  .   The " rod " part it singular, not plural.  But in any event, go to the bottom and click on "sheetmetal parts".  I don't know how their prices compare to others, but again the fit is good and they apparently use these parts themselves in their other main endeavor.

Mark Lowery, CLC#25216

[rlreat]

Thanks a lot for your help.They are high as you said.I don't know what the car would be worth finished.May be able to buy a car for less than the floor pan .Thanks for the help

[tozerco]

Hate to spoil your plans but the trunk floor in these cars was always susceptible to the rot and the chances that a cheap second car will provide a useable floor panel are slim indeed. I have just spent a weekend cutting patch panels and welding them into the second trunk floor (from a donor car) because it too had the dreaded rot. The cause is fairly obvious:

The car is parked in the weather and the rear window (including 3/4 vents) rubbers very quickly break down. That lets the water in and all the panels around the trunk slope down towards the trunk floor. Even the 3/4 vents are directly over the rear fender wells that slope back to the trunk floor. ANY water or condensation in this area finds its way quickly to the trunk floor. Not sure about the 50 series but the 75 series then had an UPSTAND lip pressed into the outside edge of the trunk floor just to make sure the water would not drain away!

The task of cutting out the rot and welding in patch panels selectively isn't all that difficult if you know someone who is even a reasonable mig welder. Not like you care what it looks like because the floor is masked by the gas tank from underneath and the trunk lining from above.

[Stinson]

Hello Mr. Reat,
If that item throws you off you had better forget about restoring a car. You will not even have "just begun". My advice is, and I did not listen to those posting here, buy one restored to the condition you can afford. Look at the CLC Self Starters issued monthly - that is where you can find very, very cheap outstanding cars for less than $20,000 - $30,000 right now. I have restored (almost) a '37 Cad V-12 and have $90,000 in it now. Will never get that back. Look again at those listed in the Self Starter. Fly out there, take a look, bring your money and save much in time and far reaching expenses.
Ty Stinson

[gary griffin]

I certainly agree. The economy has diminshed to where people needing cash areselling thier treasured restorations for far less than the amount spent on them. In a good finincial climate it is hard to sell a restored car for what you have invested in it but now is the time to take advantage of the market and get the classic you wanted for half of what it was worth a couple of years ago. I am still restoring but certainly not at a profit, just for my own pleasure and the knowledge it is done right.

[Glen]

I would like to know how much difference there is between the LaSalle trunk floor pan and the 75 Series sedan.  Is it significantly different or will it work.  Right now when I open the trunk on my 38 model 75 and look in I see the gas tank. 

My parts book does not show that part. 

[Stinson]

Hello Glen, I know what you mean by seeing the tank. This is a 1937 Cad Sedan 75.

[Stinson]

and these

[tozerco]

Hi Ty,

Thanks for the photos - I am back out welding patch panels in my trunk floor tomorrow and they are a handy reference.

I have always been intrugued about three things with the design of the rear ends of the '36s and '37s:

1.    What made GM believe that the water splash from the (particularly rear) wheels wouldn't come up the side of the fuel tank and into the trunk via that dinky "cowl" around the fuel filler pipe?

2.    Why did GM put an UPSTAND flange around the rear lip of the tunk floor (you can see it in your Donor Floor photo) so that any water that did get in couldn't get out? and

3.    In your photo 3 your re-builder is about to weld the higher of the two flanges on the rear edge of the floor to the body at the base of the trunk lid. for about 10 inches to the right and left of this flange there is nothing to close the gap between the body and the trunk floor!

I am going to be wrestling with this last question in about two weeks time when the "Plain Back" (no trunk) is welded into the back of my donor body because that will be the last time before all access to this area is lost for good. What did your re-builder do to close this gap? From the look of the clamps between the base of the trunk opening and the new floor, it looks like he closed it up but is that the case?

Thanks again for the photos.....

[Glen]

Thank you Ty, those pictures give me hope I can repair the trunk in my car.  Next is finding a donor with a decent trunk floor. 

One difference between 37 and 38 is the gas filler tube is on the driver side for 38.   

[Steve Passmore]

Hi Ty,


I have always been intrigued about three things with the design of the rear ends of the '36s and '37s:

1.   " What made GM believe that the water splash from the (particularly rear) wheels wouldn't come up the side of the fuel tank and into the trunk via that dinky "cowl" around the fuel filler pipe?"


That a question thats also intrigued me for years John, this only happens with the Fleetwood bodies, Fisher has the filler under the floor. I'm still toying with how to overcome this problem on my 36 as the "Cowl" is rusted away completely, you wouldn't have a spare would you?

2. "   Why did GM put an UPSTAND flange around the rear lip of the trunk floor (you can see it in your Donor Floor photo) so that any water that did get in couldn't get out? "

This is a strength issue, it gives the outer lines of the floor pan and attaching inner panels much needed strength and shape.

[Stinson]

Hope these can help.

[Stinson]

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[Stinson]

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[Stinson]

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[Stinson]

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[tozerco]

Steve,

I would have turned the flange down and achieved the same strength without the trapped water problem. As for the spare I don't have one EXCEPT that, with my closed, plain back the cowl actually doesn't do anything (I don't have a trunk to get into it). The one I have was rotten around the base so I have cut the base off and made up a new angled flange for it that just needs to be spot welded to the rest of the cowl. If I convince myself over Easter that there is abetter way of incorporating the fuel filler pipe I won't need it. Probably best if I decide I don't that I send some photos first.

Let me get back to you after Easter.