News:

Due to a technical issue, some recently uploaded pictures have been lost. We are investigating why this happened but the issue has been resolved so that future uploads should be safe.  You can also Modify your post (MORE...) and re-upload the pictures in your post.

Main Menu

To Paint or Powdercoat Suspension Parts and Brake Backing Plate?

Started by Jeff Wilk, April 22, 2012, 01:44:23 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Jeff Wilk

What do you all think?  We have broke down all the parts at this point while replacing a bad ball joint and center link.  Have steering knuckles off, brake backer, coil springs, and the A-arms......  Going to have them sandblasted and cant decide if I should spend the $$$ for black powdercoating on these seldom seen parts.....or just use a high quality black chassis paint like 3X Chassis Black from Eastwood instead......this 59 Fleetwood is going to be a driver (to shows and around town is what I mean).

Should all of this be done in a satin black?  Or were some parts different colors....ie factory grey, or how about golden on the springs?
???
"Impossible Only Describes The Degree Of Difficulty" 

Southern New Jersey

1959 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special
1975 Eldorado Convertible (#12 made)
1933 Phaeton Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"
1933 Master Sedan Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"

SOLD
1976 Cadillac Mirage (factory authorized Pick-Up)
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sedan
1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville

TJ Hopland

The generally say not to powder coat springs because of concern over the baking process changing the properties of the metal. 

With proper surface prep even a cheap rattle can paint job will last years on an occasional fair weather driver.  In my younger days I once had a body shop paint over a repair they did with some parts store spray paint I had in the trunk for a couple years.  After 5 years it still looked as good as it did the day they did it and that was no clear coat or even wax to protect it.   I would guess that most of that was in the surface prep and the rest was in the painting technique.   
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

David King (kz78hy)

I had all my front suspension parts (except brakes, only because I did not remove them) powder coated satin black, also all the inner fenders/dust shields.  It was more for protection than looks.  The parts will never rust now.  So in 70 years, my Brougham will be enjoyed by some else.

David
David King
CLC 22014  (life)
1958 Eldorado Brougham 615
1959 Eldorado Brougham 56- sold
1960 Eldorado Brougham 83- sold
1998 Deville d'Elegance
1955 Eldorado #277
1964 Studebaker Commander
2012 Volt
CLCMRC benefactor 197

Director and Founder, Eldorado Brougham Chapter
Past President, Motor City Region

Rare Parts brand suspension parts Retailer via Keep'em Running Automotive

markl

Jeff,
I'm with David's approach assuming you are in it for the long haul.  Like maybe you are thinking someday someone in your family will inherit your restoration and continue to enjoy it for at least another generation.  I don't think that the temperatures involved in curing powder coating (375-400, F) are high enough to change the tempering of the steel (annealing).  I'm not a metallurgist, nor do I portray one on TV, but I believe the proof of the pudding is that many manufacturers of high end after-market springs now offer them w/ powder coating as a finish.

However, before investing in this expense, I'd think long and hard about whether of not they might need replacing anyhow.  Springs are the one component that definitely does wear out due to cyclical loading.  So, before you invest $75-100 to powder coat your existing springs, which will almost certainly require sandblasting as part of the prep, you should look into new replacement springs made to the factory spec for that year and application.  I have powder coated springs for my race car (no adverse effects noted) only to question my decision later as brand new ones (powder coated BTW) were available for only about $100 more than I spent making a little used, but unsightly (rust) set look absolutely beautiful.  Of course, in this case, they were done in Tiger Dry-Lac, Bengal Red.  The only issue here is that I will probably be the last guy to admire them unless I fail to observe the "racers rule" e.g., "Keep the rubber side down"!

Mark Lowery, CLC#25216

curly

Jeff,
I sandblasted my suspension parts when I rebuilt my front end in the early 90's.  I rattle canned everything a gloss black.  They still look halfway decent even after all this time.  I do live in the desert, so it is very dry here. 
I also sandblasted and painted the springs.  Waste of time. It is very hard to access all the surfaces of the coil and get a decent coat of paint on them.  I'd powdercoat them if I did it again.

T Lewis

62droptop

with powdercoating, if there is any imperfections in the metal it will show in the powdercoat

any pits in the metal etc will be very obvious in the finished product where paint will have a prime coat that can be sanded to hide these little things

by the time you prep,prime and quality paint, the powdercoating option is probably cheaper

Jeff Wilk

Found a few local shops and am getting prices in as follows for powdercoating and the prep:

Valve Cover pair  $140
Tri-Power Air Cleaner $150
Misc Small engine brackets $20 each
A-Arms  $65 each
Fender/Wheel Wells  $125 each
Valley Cover $50
Brake Backer Plates $50 each
Fan Shroud $100

I estimate to do all I want it will be $1500 - $2000!!!

Sooooooo......I've decided to get the valve covers and aircleaner powder coated to keep them in great shape, and I have taken the plunge and ordered a 15CFM 5HP Air Compressor, and a 36" Blasting Cabinet.  All together this will cost less than having all of that powder coated and we will finally have the shop set up we need for more work on this car and the Phaeton that is patiently waiting it's turn.     

We will sandblast the suspension parts with medium sized glass bead, and then prep them and use Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black to coat.  We feel it is a Win-Win for us.


Now to find room for that compressor and blast cabinet before they arrive next week!!! ;D

Thanks for all the input and sound advice!!!

Jeff & Noah
"Impossible Only Describes The Degree Of Difficulty" 

Southern New Jersey

1959 Cadillac Fleetwood Sixty Special
1975 Eldorado Convertible (#12 made)
1933 Phaeton Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"
1933 Master Sedan Chevrolet - "Baby Cadillac"

SOLD
1976 Cadillac Mirage (factory authorized Pick-Up)
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sixty-Special
1958 Cadillac Sedan
1958 Cadillac Coupe Deville

62droptop

great comprimize

nothing like having a blast cabinet at your disposal

now any time you work on anything metal, you can blast it to clean it up in no time

plus you can do some nice glass etching also and many other things