Window Regulator Gear Replacement - 40s

[TMoore - NTCLC]

Hi.

I had one window where the crank would spin, but it was obviously not engaging anything.  I took the regulator off and determined that the gear that engages the teeth on the regulator was broken.  I purchased a full window regulator for parts. 

I have drilled the rivets out of the replacement regulator, and removed the gear.  Now, before I drill the rivets out of my regulator to replace the defective gear, I am trying to figure out how I can get the rivet back into the one hole where the the regulator meshes with the drive gear - in other words, two of the rivets are in the clear, but one of them would be under the regulator.  The final teeth on the regulator are much too large to engage the drive gear (I assume to prevent the regulator to travel too far).

I sure everyone else knows how to do this, so anyone who has done it, please let me know.

Thanks in advance -

(sorry for the fuzzy pics - I was a little too close)

[gary griffin]

Can you use a bolt of the same diameter as  a rivit pointing outwards and use locktite on the nut and hold the shaft of the bolt out past the nut. Secure the shaft with vise grips while you tighten the nut and then cut off the excess thread with a hack saw. You could then peen the threads after cutting off the extra to be sure there is no way for the nut to come off.


I cant tell from the picture if this would work but I have used it a few times in tight locations.

[TMoore - NTCLC]

That might work, but I would need to grind the head of the bolt pretty thin - there is almost zero tolerance between where the regulator drive passes over this rivet - this was a flat head rivet, and in order to keep the regulator mated with the drive gear teeth, they have made this pretty tight.  As a matter of fact, even with the flat-head rivet, there is a rub mark on the regulator where it passed over the rivet.

But it may be my best option. 

[Brad Ipsen CLC #737]

Remove the big coiled spring.  Go to the pivot point where the slot is for the coiled spring.  Turn it over.  Now grind the rolled part of this rivet off.  Punch it out.  You now can do the 3 rivets on the gear like the factory did.  Now clean up all the dried up grease at the pivot point.  You now have a choice.  You can tack weld this big rivet to hold it or you can drill it out and use a large size (3/16") pop rivet to hold it.

If the coiled spring inside your gear was the only failure these are available from Restoration Specialties & Supply, PA.  Part #B917 for 40 and up and B918 for 39 and back.