Exhaust pipe wrap

[KD]

Does anyone know about the exhaust pipe wrap for my 1940 series 90?
Does it wrap all the way down to the first flange, as it appears to have had. Mine had a wire wrapped around it holding it in place, but I don't think that was original .It looks like it was just to keep it from unravelling. I can get a woven ceramic wrap in 1" or 2" and I think the 2' may be correct . I can also get stainless steel ties but I don't know how many. Help anyone???
Ken D CLC#26801

[kkarrer]

Those are available from a number of sources.  I got mine for my 41 from McVey's.  It will come with 3 stainless or aluminum bands for securing it to the pipe.  It will be in a plastic bag with water in it to keep it from drying out on the shelf.  I found it helpful to use clear or white plastic zip ties to help hold it in place while you put the 3 bands and the split in the material where you want them.  While it dries out it will drip for a few hours.  You can clip off the zip ties or leave them in place after installing the bands.  Mine are still on.
Ken Karrer 1941 6227D coupe

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Ken: Too add to what Ken posted, my Master Parts book shows the length of that asbestos exhaust wrap was 11 1/2 inches long for the 75 and 90 series car from 38 through 1940 where as the length of most other series 38 through 48 was 19 3/8.    Bill

[KD]

Bill, My metal covering that bolts to the manifold is almost 17" long, It seems to me it should at least that long.
Ken D

[KD]

I see in the parts book, you are right, but it still seems short
Ken D

[KD]

The parts book says 2 are needed?
Ken

[kkarrer]

My suggestion would be to get two.  Put one on in full as high up as it needs to go and then put the second one on, take a look and cut it shorter if necessary.  When it extends further down it offers more protection to the starter and battery and to the passengers aspect of the firewall (good name 'eh?).  In judging this era of car I've not run into anyone who would quibble with how long or short those things are.  We tend to create our own monsters when we "over restore."  I just measured one that I have that is still in the bag.  It is 9" x 12".  It's still moist, but the bag was torn.  Heck, if you'd like to have it, give an address and I'll send it on. I don't have an extra set of clamps, but using the thick, heavy duty zip ties (clear or white) will keep it in place while you get some.  It's the best way to hold these things in place while you fiddle with the metal bands.  Let's get that car running!
Ken Karrer 1941 6227D coupe

[Brad Ipsen CLC #737]

Ken,

I would wrap it all the way down to the flange.  The part of this that really shows is covered with a shield (another subject in itself) on the V-16 and the 75 series cars so what you put under it can not be seen unless you look under the car.  I have seen what I think is original down to that point but it is always hard to say what is original for sure.  I use the 2" wide fake asbestos wrap sold by Summit Racing and others.  I have a sample of original (I think) asbestos (for sure) from this in a plastic bag if any judge wants to question it.  This product works so much better than the wet wrap that I am willing to sacrifice a point here if I have to.  I used this on my 40-60S also and it is like new after 6 years and 10,000 miles.  Another thing to keep remembering on the parts book.  It is not necessarily what was original.  It was what they sold to replace what was original.  There are many examples. 

[Paul Phillips]

Brad
I like the suggestion of using the header wrap as the only solution on the exhaust pipe.  I had previously added a wrapped section below the white 'factory' insulation on my 41 to give the starter a bit of extra protection, and am facing the choice again now that I am rebuilding the car.  Curious if you used the rattle can coating sold with the header wrap or left it natural?  6 years & 10K miles is a great result!

Paul

[KD]

Thanks all, Espesially Ken Kerrar foor your offer. I'm so grateful for everyones help
Ken Dennison CLC#26801

[48-62]

My 'take' on exhaust wrap was a textile based graphite coated  material ( thermalvelocity.co.uk ) It was easy to apply and was put there to protect primarily the water pump.  Works well and I have not suffered with heat soak on the starter, and with our temperatures in summer it is unlikely to.  After a recored radiator, porcelainised manifolds, new thermostat and hoses it will now idle for 15 minutes in traffic.  Don't know if that is good or bad, but means I can get the car out and use it.

Anybody got experience with electric fans on their 346, and what size works best ?  Would a fan blade with more blades work ?

Any thoughts appreciated