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1957 Cadillac Series 62 - Carb Pipe question

Started by TBZ_57_Series_62, July 26, 2012, 03:15:44 PM

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TBZ_57_Series_62

  I have a 1957 Series 62 Caddy  -  I am hoping someone can help me identify what the pipe that runs from the Rochester Carburetor down to the engine and what it's purpose is... Can this cause the engine to stall when car is at normal operating temp.? Does this control something in the Carb.?

Also is there is a place to have replacement purchased or how to repair (ours rotted off the engine-end)?

I have attached a picture with the pipe highlighted. (Not my car, just shows the pipe I am talking about)

Any help would be greatly appreciated - I want to be able to repair this, but don't want to sound any more a fool, than I already have, when talking to part or service.

On a side note - What could cause the engine to stall (as if it loses fuel) once it's warmed up? It starts fine, runs great until it has ran or a while and then it seems to lose fuel or something and stalls.

Thanks for all your help,
T. Zahnke

dplotkin

It is the choke pipe. It conducts heat from the exhaust mainfold to the choke housing containing the thermostatic choke spring where it heats up the spring as the engine warms & opens the choke. Without it, the choke will stay closed, causing the engine to run very rich, poorly and over time dilute the engine oil with fuel and potentially scuff the cylinder walls from fuel washing the oil off the bores. So fix it. Check out USA Parts Supply, Fusic Automotive and other Cadillac parts suppliers. Not sure about 57, but my 56 has a fabric insulation covering the pipe to keep the heat in.

Dan
56 Fleetwood Sixty Special (Starlight silver over Dawn Grey)
60 Buick Electra six window
60 Chrysler 300 F Coupe
61 Plymouth Savoy Ram Inducted 413 Superstock
62 Pontiac Bonneville Vista
63 Chevy Impala convertable
63 Ford Galaxie XL fastback
65 Corvette convertable 396
68 Chrysler New Yorker

Walter Youshock

That is the choke stove pipe that allows warm air to enter the choke control.  As the engine warms, hotter air is drawn across the spring and its tension decreases thereby opening the choke baffle, leaning the air/fuel mixture.  The car won't run without this unless you manually open the choke.  It is covered in a braided asbestos tube to insulate it.

You can make one from a piece of brake line.  Cut one end with a pipe cutter and remove the fittings.  Slide the fitting from your choke tube on the new tubing and try to replicate the bends (unless yours is totally gone).  The end that goes into the exhaust manifold was cut at a 45 degree angle with the shorter side pointing upward to catch the exhaust as it passes through the manifold and direct it toward the choke.  Hopefully you have the braided cover.  Slide that on before you attach it to the manifold.

There is a clip held with a 7/16's nut on the side of the manifold to hold the pipe.  Originally, the pipe was flared about an inch from the angle that held the pipe tightly in the manifold.

If the choke isn't working at all, the car is starving for AIR, will run rich and stall.  Are you getting a lot of black exhaust?
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

TBZ_57_Series_62

Not sure about any Black exhaust - don't believe I saw any, but i will check the next time I start it up...

As far as how it attaches to the manifold - I am not sure I picture how this end attaches... does it slide inside of the manifold or just against the outside or is it welded to the manifold?  How does it stay in place on the manifold? Mine rusted at the manifold end and I'm not sure how or if this attaches to the manifold.  I do have the insulation, so I guess I can fix this if I get a handle on how it attaches to the manifold.

Thanks a million for your quick responses.

T. Zahnke

Raymond919

I'll stick my two cents in so you can have a quick answer to your question. If yours is similar to my engine, you will have the choke heat box on the exhaust manifold. The end of this choke tube just sticks into a hole on the top of the heat box - no welding or adhesive. Walter described it quite well.
Ray Schuman

dplotkin

Quote from: Walter Youshock on July 26, 2012, 03:55:01 PM
That is the choke stove pipe that allows warm air to enter the choke control.  As the engine warms, hotter air is drawn across the spring and its tension decreases thereby opening the choke baffle, leaning the air/fuel mixture.  The car won't run without this unless you manually open the choke.  It is covered in a braided asbestos tube to insulate it.

Walter; was there something wrong with my description that compelled you to answer it as if I had not? Asbestos was used on the originals, not today. Pretty sure it is fiberglass weave.
56 Fleetwood Sixty Special (Starlight silver over Dawn Grey)
60 Buick Electra six window
60 Chrysler 300 F Coupe
61 Plymouth Savoy Ram Inducted 413 Superstock
62 Pontiac Bonneville Vista
63 Chevy Impala convertable
63 Ford Galaxie XL fastback
65 Corvette convertable 396
68 Chrysler New Yorker

TBZ_57_Series_62

I see a hole in the rear lower area and a "nub" of a tube at the front upper corner... not sure which area is correct or where the tube attached. Can someone help me understand which is the correct spot.

I have attached a few pics highlighting the areas.

I really appreciate all your help... I am very "rookie" at this restoring stuff..

Thanks everyone,
T. Zahnke

Roger Zimmermann

It's so easy to understand when the parts are here and complete!
There is a plate held by small screws on the manifold; you did some good pictures. The tube goes int a hole of that plate and is held by a small hook, attached by one of the screws. To avoid the the tube is coming out, there is a ridge on that tube; the hook is pushing on that ridge.
To avoid heat dispersion, I would use a steel tube and not a copper/nickel tube.
By looking at the pictures, you will have to remove the manifold from the engine, and remove the small screws by heating them. It seems that the rust has done his work...
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

Walter Youshock

#8
Dan,

Your response was excellent.  If you check both our Posting Times, you'll see that I was writing my response as you were posting yours.  I never got to see your post until after mine had gone on the board as I was still typing.

As for the tube issue:  If you can't get that one stove cover bolt off then the manifold will have to come off the car.  No sense snapping a rusted bolt.  Hopefully the manifold itself will come off easily.  I developed an exhaust leak on my car and the manifold bolts were so loose I was able to give them anywhere from 1/2 to 2 full turns.  Usually the opposite is true--they rust into the block and then you have a REAL mess.
CLC #11959 (Life)
1957 Coupe deVille
1991 Brougham

dplotkin

56 Fleetwood Sixty Special (Starlight silver over Dawn Grey)
60 Buick Electra six window
60 Chrysler 300 F Coupe
61 Plymouth Savoy Ram Inducted 413 Superstock
62 Pontiac Bonneville Vista
63 Chevy Impala convertable
63 Ford Galaxie XL fastback
65 Corvette convertable 396
68 Chrysler New Yorker

David King (kz78hy)

Here is a shot of mine before and after.  The before shot is low res. and not very good, but on the LH end of it, you can barley make out the hook swings over and retains the pipe.  I soldered a washer on the end of the brake tubing when I made mine.  In the exhaust manifold casting, there is a hollow chamber that the cover closes off.  The heat created there is what goes up the tube to the choke.  It is not exhaust gas, just hot air.

David
David King
CLC 22014  (life)
1958 Eldorado Brougham 615
1959 Eldorado Brougham 56- sold
1960 Eldorado Brougham 83- sold
1998 Deville d'Elegance
1955 Eldorado #277
1964 Studebaker Commander
2012 Volt
CLCMRC benefactor 197

Director and Founder, Eldorado Brougham Chapter
Past President, Motor City Region

Rare Parts brand suspension parts Retailer via Keep'em Running Automotive

TBZ_57_Series_62

Thank you guys so much for your help... and thank you David for your photos, it made everything crystal clear.

I replaced the line and the Caddy runs like a champ.

T. Zahnke