brake lights -1957 Eldo

[Paul Tesone]

My brake lights stay on when I release the brake pedal . When this happened last year a new stop (brake ) light switch was installed . Apparently that didn't help . If I pull the pedal up with my toe , it will come up about an inch or so and the brake lights will turn off . Seems like a spring is either missing or not strong enough to reposition the pedal to its highest position . I'm not really certain if the brakes  actually remain engaged after releasing the pedal and the pedal does not return to its highest position . It seems as if the car should glide better than it does once the pedal is released , but that might be my imgination . I don't notice any significant difference in the way it will coast once the pedal is pulled up . Not certain there is any difference in coasting with the pedal in either position when in neutral . I have noticed that all four sabres are hot to the touch - not extremely so , but certainly more than just warm . My brake lights have aparently remained on long enough to cause both lenses to melt - maybe due to an incorrect bulb , maybe due to cheap thinner repro lenses. I can't find an exploded view of the brake pedal in my manual to see if a spring is supposed to be there . Any ideas ?? Thank you in advance for any suggestions . Paul Tesone ...CLC # 6876

[Walter Youshock]

Bleed your brakes first.  A similar thing happened to me and I damn near burned up the car after a hiway trip.  One of the brakes was hanging up due to rust in the wheel cylinder.  I replaced all the wheel cylinders and had the booster redone as well.

The Hydrovacs on these are vented to the atmosphere so they love to absorb moisture.  I now bleed the brakes once a year to make sure this doesn't happen again.

[Walter Youshock]

There's no spring on the pedal of a '57.  This was the last use of the Hydrovac where the master cylinder is on the frame.  The spring inside the MC is basically the pedal return.

There is an adjustment for the brake light switch which is the rod to the MC.  You can also lubricate the linkage between the pedal and the switch but if you feel the car is dragging (like mine did) then I'd seriously check that the wheel cylinders are not sticking. 

[Paul Tesone]

Thanks LeRoy and Walter . I'll let you know what happens . Paul  Tesone CLC # 6876

[Quentin Hall]

G'day Paul, I recall both my old 57s having the same problem over the years. My Biarritz needed only the slightest pedal deflection to activate the brake light switch but I found that a quick pull up with my toes on the pedal and it stayed up , so I put a long lightweight carb spring on the brake pedal that did the trick. I put it down to a worn hydrovac.
   haven't got my "new" Biarritz operational yet to know if I have the same problem. Hope that helps. Q

[Paul Tesone]

Thanks Quentin - I'll pass that tip along to my restorer . I saw him today. For now , he's planning to have the master rebuilt . I'll let you know what happens . Paul Tesone ...CLC #6876

[Paul Tesone]

I got my car back yesterday from the restorer . Master was rebuilt , all wheel cylinders checked out ( I assume that meant bleeding  as well ) , tension on the drum adjusted . He told me that if the wheel can be hand spun about one and a half rotations , that was the correct tension of the pads on the drum . He also added a small spring somewhere ( as Quentin described ) to prevent the brake peddle from sagging under its own weight and activating the brake lights and maybe the brakes themselves . I drove the car home , a trip of 50 miles . Everything seemed fine . I didn't feel any dragging  while coasting or resistance when accelerating . The brake lights worked properly before I left . When I got home, I felt the turbine wheels to see if they were hot . All four were uncomfortably hot to a light touch . If I put pressure on them with my hand , they were hot enough that I hand to remove my hand . This just doesn't seem right - even though I didn't feel anything while driving . My guy swears it's not the power booster , but I'm beginning to have my doubts . Maybe it's time to send out the booster or get another opinion . Any thoughts over and above what has already been stated in previous responses  ? Thanks , Paul Tesone CLC # 6876 .

[Walter Youshock]

They're adjusted too tight is my guess.  They may be dragging just enough to get hot but not drag.  The farther you drive, the hotter they get and expand and get even hotter and expand even more--you get the idea. 

Loosen them a couple notches.  Also, you shouldn't have to install a pedal return spring if everything is working properly.

[Dave Shepherd]

Agreed on the brake adjustment, counting the wheel rotation as a brake adjustment method is not correct.  If the wheels were hot you can imagine the drums, still it is possible something is not allowing the pedal to return enough to uncover the bypass port in m/c causing the brakes to drag slightly.

[Paul Tesone]

Thanks Dave and Walter . I don't know much about auto mechanics , but it certainly seems like something is creating too much friction . My guy did recognise that the pedle return was not enough to uncover the the by-pass port in the master , but thought he corrected that when the master was rebuilt. The master , by the way , had apparently been rebuilt early on in the restoration by a different restorer because it had a stainless sleeve inserted . My restorer made some inquiries as to whether that sleeve could be preventing the proper uncovering of the by-pass , so he's well aware of the mechanism involved . He was told that the sleeve probably is not the problem . Sounds like the first thing that should be tried is loosening the brakes a little and see what happens . Perhaps it may be time for a fresh set of eyes and hands to attack the problem . Thanks again , ... Paul Tesone CLC # 6876

[Walter Youshock]

You may want to replace those springs on the shoes.  If they got way too hot, chances are they've been weakened and are retempered.  That will also cause your pedal to fall and brakes to drag.

Mine got so hot that all 4 hubcap centers warped.  It's not fun.

[Paul Tesone]

Thanks Walter -- I'll have that done . ... Paul Tesone  CLC #6876