repaint in original color or black

[E Rivera]

I have been trying to find a color chart for a 1935 Lasalle. As I understand it, the color is Admiral Blue (Paint 76). I'm not sure of the shade since it shows differently on the enternet. Is it a dark blue (like a navy peacoat)or lighter? How would just paintning the car black impact on the value of the car?

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

That's a question that has no definitive answer. It depends upon a range of factors primarily continginent upon the owner's preferences and long range intentions. Generally speaking, I feel it's best to adhere to the color scheme as originally built unless the the combo is utterly intolerable in the eyes of the owner. After all, he/she is the one who's going have to live with it. Others will have more to say but this is the way I see it.

[dplotkin]

My 56 Fleetwood was built Canyon Grey over Dawn Grey. Canyon Grey looks a little like lemon chiffon. Or, it could be said that it looks like the contents of your kleenex when you have a bad head cold. I hated it. So I changed it to Starlight Silver, which was a Eldorado color that you could have had on your roof if you wanted it. I kept the body Dawn grey. I worried about the same thing you are.

Unless you don't like the color, I would keep it correct for its birth color. it helps protect value and historical integrety. A car that old, painted black, will look like a whole lot of other cars that old, which are painted black. Yet if the blue troubles you, paint it any (offered) color you like with no regrets.

Dan

[R Sotardi #11719]

I agree with the guys before. Does the 35 Lasalle have a paint code tag some where, like on the firewall? Also will this be a frame off restoration. The reason that I ask is that many cars from the early 30s and earlier did not have a data plate with the color listed in view. However, an expert will be able to sniff out a color change unless every nook & cranny is stripped and resprayed. Only a total disassembly can come close to achieving the results  needed to fool an expert. Example... I am second owner of a 50 sedan , & no expert.  When I bought the car it was a gray/blue paint on all but the roof. The data plate stated code 8D,  Savoy Gray. However, Savoy Gray was a single color only not two tone.  When I removed the windshield trim at the roof, there was the evidence...  Savoy Gray, not white. BTW, This white roof was a no cost option from the dealer ( Apache Motors, Tucson Az). This was to reduce the interior temps  prior to  A/C.  I found that out a year later. Ron

[kkarrer]

E. Rivera,
    My car was originally black as well and after a number of restorations, here are what I think the considerations are regarding a change of color:
1.) I wouldn't consider a color change a very low mileage original car that's in great shape especially if there are other things about it that make it special...otherwise see the next items...
2.) Changing colors and interiors on cars was common even back in the 20's via dealerships or independent providers. It's your car...be happy with it.  You'll probably drive and show it more often.
3.) Concern yourself more with the quality of the job and the color combinations offered in that year for your make and model. (Auto Color Library has the original charts and can mix what you want in lac., single stage, or base/clear.  I've used them for years with great results.)
4.) Do some reasearch (authenticity manual) regarding the underhood and under body colors as well.  Just because they're painted a certain way now doesn't mean someone didn't change them between the time that the car was manufactured and the time you purchased it.  You may as well have everything as close to correct as possible if you're going through all the trouble that's involved with a complete repaint.
5.) Be prepared to replace rubber components as well including fender welt.
6.) Your sill plates may need replacement because if they're worn, like door seals and other rubber, they'll stick out like a sore thumb after the new paint job as will headlight rims, wheels, hubcaps, and bumper chrome.
7.) Pin stripes (hand painted only) were common on 20's through  early 40's cars. Vincennes Red was very often used, but gold was popular on the dark blue cars as well and they often included the wheels and some hubcaps.
8.) New paint will also highlight any body work flaws.  If you ask for a paint job only, that's what you'll get.  Go over your car with a fine tooth comb and address thoses dings and dents as well.
Good luck,

Ken Karrer 1941 6227 D coupe

[Paul Phillips]

As some of the discussion has gone above, repainting in black has been popular on cars of this vintage, and ultimately it is your car and you have to like what it looks like.  From an authenticity value, the color change is a factor, and will diminish value on a car that is otherwise very original.  If your car is a long path away from original or an authentic restoration, the change is less of a factor because the value is less in general. 

One factor beyond 'like' is to understand how much paint is already on your car.  Applying yet another set of layers of primer and color on top of the original and black layers is getting pretty thick.  The chances of cracking or crazing with that much paint are high, and panel fit & trim fit will start to be a problem.  Regardless of what you choose on color, I would advocate taking off the old layers back to sound metal, properly fixing any surprises, then apply a quality new paint job from there.

There is a great color reference that is linked in the Online Resources stickey at the top of this forum listing.  http://www.lidreamboats.org/Colorchipmenu.html  Their server may be down due to the storm, but check back later for that.  Other paint resources show this color as Dupont code 246-50535, and also that there is a Chevy paint of the same name for 1934-1935 coded as 246-50534.  The 246-50534 is called out for Cadillac Admiral Blue in 1936-37.  The differences between the two codes are likely to be minor, since the online color looked identical.

I would also suggest you ask your painter to do a spray-out card for one of these Dupont codes to see if you like it.  If your painter can't get a formula conversion, try someone like TCP Global http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/ and buy the smallest quantity to test with.

Hope that helps

[E Rivera]

Hi to all that responded

I just need tell all that I really do appreciate the advice offered by members of the club or any responders to my post. As a new member, I am truly seeing the benefit/s of being a member of this club and discussion forum. I have begun to develop a plan for moviing forward with the restoration based on the valuable information I received. Again, thank you fellow members, responders, and special thank you to the club for providing such an atmosphere for discussion.

[markl]

Mr. Rivera,

First off, give us a first name please.  It is awkward to refer to someone as "Mr. Rivera" when I am only going to be humbly referred to as "Mark".  When someone refers to me as Mr. Lowery, I suddenly look around to see if my long deceased father has reappeared!

But all that aside, if you are looking to replicate Admiral Blue, the modern equivalent appears to be Marine Blau, a Volvo color from the 70's.  PPG among others can come up w/ that formula from just the name.  BTW, Marine Blau I believe is the Swedish equivalent of Marine Blue in English.  I owe all this knowledge for a fellow member, [it will come to me in time], but I too agree that this is a very close match to the original Admiral Blue.

Don't be deluded into thinking that outfits like AutoColorLibrary have formulas that convert old paint numbers from various manufactures to modern paints.  Ain't the case!  They are simply working off of old paint chips and using the current color matching technology.  You can do the same or better by bringing a sample from an area that wasn't exposed to sunlight or weather to a local purveyor of auto paints.

In all cases, I would advocate having a sizable test panel sprayed over the very same primer you intend to use.
I second what Paul has said about the possibility of Crazing or Cracking if you are spraying over original paint.  In fact, I would say that is almost a certainty given the different chemical formulations that are in use today.  Unless you are simply trying to patch up a few areas, you might as well resign yourself to stripping to bare metal.

Mark Lowery, CLC #25216

[76eldo]

If there is no ID on the car with a paint code, and you are doing a total restoration, I would think any authentic color for that year would be fine.  A color chip chart will show all the available choices.  Back then most closed cars tended to be painted in dark colors.

Brian

[E Rivera]

Hi Mark and Brian

I just figured out how to change the profile name, I think.  Thank you both for your input and advice.

[C.R. Patton II]

Hello Mr. Rivera

Fantastic to read you are improving your LaSalle.

You have received some very sound guidance for your restoration previously. The only tip I would add is the purchase of the text " LaSalle: Cadillac's Companion Car by Ron Van Gelderen and Matt Larson.

I look forward to meeting you and the opportunity to see your prize at our Grand National in Boston next summer.

[buicksplus]

Ed:

I have a 37 that I painted in Admiral Blue.  It was not the original color for my car either, so I had no old paint to compare.  I had paint chips that showed that it was a dark "Navy" blue, hence the name Admiral.  It is not metallic.

Most blues being mixed today are metallic or pearlescent, I would avoid those, they look very strange on an old car.  I found a 2001 Volvo Color, called "MarineBlau", PPG code 17156 that looked reasonable to me.  It is a dark Navy blue, no metallic.  I don't know how it compares the the real Admiral Blue because I have not (and may never see) any original paint in that color.

It's important to pick a color that is cataloged.  This will help you get matching touch up paint or more color to fix problems in the future. 

Good luck!
Bill.