Manifold Studs ... 346 Flathead

[pauldridge]

I'd sure like to replace all the exhaust/intake manifold studs in my 346 Flathead as a part of the overhaul.. preferably Grade 8.  But I've searched high and low and can't seem to track these down.

The studs are about 4 3/4" long, 3/8" fine thread on one end, 3/8" course thread on the other.

Has anyone had luck sourcing these?

Phil  - Austin

[markl]

Phil,
You don't state the length of the threaded portions (Coarse and Fine) and it is too stormy to go out and check on a spare block I have, but for now I'd like to throw out an idea;  Assuming no one knows of a supplier that has had a special production run done for these, you could purchase what is known as "Setup Studs".  These will have NC threads on either end and an unthreaded shank between.  As an example, McMaster-Carr sells one in a 6" length that has 1-1/4" threads on either end.  Cut the threaded portion off of one end and you end up w/ a piece 4-3/4" long.  Then double nut the NC end, place in a vise and cut NF fine threads to suit the application.

One other thing, don't think you'll find these in grade 8, but rather grade 5 which should have a minimum tensile strength of 125,000 psi.  If you consider that probably the only fasteners on these engines that may have exceeded that were the rod bolts, I think you'll agree that is sufficient.  Did you have to remove them for some machining? Or did some of them get damaged during disassembly?

Mark Lowery, CLC#25216

[TMoore - NTCLC]

Phil -

Did you check with Terrell Machine over in DeLeon?  I drove out there to get a set of head bolts for my flathead, and they had them on the shelf.  I didn't inquire about the exhaust manifold studs since mine were good, but it would be the first place that I would check with.

TMoore

[LeRoy DeVol]

I have been working on these engines for many years & the main problem is the fine thread nuts tend to sees up on the studs. Before you try to remove the nuts, use WD 40, or any penetrating oil, then tighten the nut first & loosen back & forth, and most of the time you will be able remove the nuts. Bear in mine that the stud goes into the water jacket & you could have water into the valve ports if you are not careful.

Lee DeVol

[Tom Beaver]

I have looked for new studs in the past and the closest I have found are made by Automotive Racing Products (ARP).  They are 5.150 in long with 3/4" long threads on the block end and 1" of fine threads on the other.  Part NO. AJ5.150-1B, $5.00 ea.  They also have hardened 3/4" OD flat washers 1/8" thick for the studs. Part NO 200-8507, $0.82 ea.  Summit Racing, Jegs or other auto parts stores will carry them.

Tom Beaver

[pauldridge]

Thanks for all those responses.

I actually have plenty of studs with a couple of spare engines laying around, and all came out without breaking, but I just thought I'd start with new since they all look pretty crusty.

For the record, I did check with Terrill Machine... they don't have them, and he had no suggestion as to source.

Guess the old ones will get wire brushed a bit and re-installed!

Phil