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brake question

Started by R Sotardi #11719, January 21, 2013, 09:48:08 AM

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R Sotardi #11719

For quite some time the first time that I press down on the brakes I get a quick pull to the right then and like a flash they stop straight. It's as if I have a lazy wheel cylinder on the driver side. Then after one more,or two, stops it goes away and the brake performance is fine, without a hitch for the rest of the day. Park the car for a week or so and it repeats. What do you guys think... a slight abrasion on the left cylinder or just a minor adjustment, or what? Front end and bearing appear tight. It's a 1950  Model 62. Thanks, Ron

Renato

Did you checked the lines and the brake balancer?
R. Bognar

TJ Hopland

How about the hoses?    Maybe the hose on the left side has internal issues and it sort of collapses when it sits but after a few applications it sort of expands and then works normally for a while?

Visual inspection would be a good start. There may be something obvious.  Maybe its a slight leak on the right side that gets burnt off after the first few stops?

IF its pulling to the right that usually means the right is stronger than the left.  You then have to figure out if its that one is stronger than normal or one is weaker than normal. Could also be that its just a timing thing.  The odd thing with yours is that it returns to normal after a few stops. 
StPaul/Mpls, MN USA

73 Eldo convert w/FiTech EFI
80 Eldo Diesel
90 CDV
And other assorted stuff I keep buying for some reason

Alan Harris CLC#1513

Look for a leak first. If you don't have one, I don't think that this is worth messing with.

However, if you must, a good place to start is switching the front drums from side to side and seeing what changes. If nothing does, then you have at least ruled out the drums.

R Sotardi #11719

I was gonna  remove the drums later this week and check for leaks in the WCs. I'm not aware of a way to check the lines, other than visual. I kinda lean toward the cylinders. One WC might have a imperfection in the sleeve causing a split second delay in the action vs the right wheel , but once fluid pushes past the "burr" it becomes lubricated. New WCs are cheap enough, but lifting the car ( more than once no less) and preparing the observation is a pest. I only have a good floor jack, no lift. I'm tempted to just replace the 2 WCs, they are 20 years old. I do change the fluid every 5-7 years. Ron

Jay Friedman

I would replace the hoses too as it is sometimes impossible to tell a hose is bad from its external appearance.
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

R Sotardi #11719

Jay, do you have a recommendation where to buy hoses? It's been a long time.

Jay Friedman

They are for sale on ebay. 

Fusick has them:   http://www.fusick.com/catfile/C1.pdf   

USA Parts has them also: http://usapartssupply.com/uploads/USA%20PARTS%201949%20-1970%20Cadillac%20Catalog.pdf

Until recently NAPA sold them but no longer.  Nor does any of the other auto parts chains.
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

Steve Passmore

I think your first suspicion is right Ron, something in the cylinder but more likely a faulty rubber cup, sticking when not in use then freeing up during the day. I've had this situation myself with swollen rubbers.
Steve

Present
1937 60 convertible coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe
1941 62 coupe

Previous
1936 70 Sport coupe
1937 85 series V12 sedan
1938 60 coupe
1938 50 coupe
1939 60S
1940 62 coupe
1941 62 convertible coupe x2
1941 61 coupe
1941 61 sedan x2
1941 62 sedan x2
1947 62 sedan
1959 62 coupe

kmatthews28

I had the same issue that you are describing, I chased everything and lastly I replaced the flex hoses and all is fine. Save yourself a lot of grief and change your brake hoses.

Gene Beaird

Verify the adjusters are adjusted properly.  One wheel that's set looser than the other could cause your initial pull.  Check for leaks, check for seepage around the hoses, then verify they are adjusted properly. 

Gene Beaird,
1968 Calais
1979 Seville
Pearland, Texas
CLC Member No. 29873

R Sotardi #11719

#11
Thanks guys. Gene that's he first thing I will do, but that the point with the up & down on floor jacks. Oh well. I don't see why hoses would do it once or twice then not again, but I'll find out. Jay,O'reilly could get them $61(front set) + tax.

Jay Friedman

Thanks for the tip on O'Reilly; there's one near my house.  I find them superior to most of the auto parts chains with the possible exception of NAPA. 
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

R Sotardi #11719

Has anyone resleeved wheel cylinders. I heard that new wheel cylinders were crap and it is better to resleeve  originals. Anyone reliable? I know White post does them... anyone else and  appoximate cost?

The Tassie Devil(le)

I have had wheel cylinders re-sleeved in the past, as in 1979, so the cost wouldn't be relevant now.

But, the sleeving was done in Stainless Steel by my local engineer.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe